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| Riding Techniques (3851 Posts)
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Technique |
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On 10/13/2003 vaitus
wrote in from
(216.166.nnn.nnn)
Rich, the pumping how to by the Dan "Seismic" guy listed on the page you mention is the most comprehensive that I know of. Surfacemotion.com has something on pumping big longboards, but that's a little different. You might want to try the slalom forum as well.
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On 10/11/2003
Rich Sayers
wrote in from
(64.168.nnn.nnn)
Hello all,
I just added a slalom board to my quiver and am having fun running cones. Want to learn slalom right before developing bad habits. I found this page of advice on pumping --
http://grassrootsslalom.homestead.com/index.html
-- Does anyone know of other concise Web pages or a good book I can refer to for slalom technique? (without having to peruse thousands of posts!) You can post here or email me. Any resources would be appreciated.
Skating again at 41.
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On 9/20/2003 Michael
wrote in from
(195.92.nnn.nnn)
The camber is there because the decks are way more 'boingy' ie springy than many US style decks. Also the vertical laminations are close together on Indianas. Compare an Indiana or Airflow with a GandS Fibreflex and you'll notice a difference in spring. If you didnt have camber you'd have 'sag'.
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On 9/20/2003
nifotc
wrote in from
(210.49.nnn.nnn)
THanks for the reply Michael. One question though, if the swiss ride their boards with their feet mostly over the trucks, what is the reason for such large camber?
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On 9/20/2003
Michael
wrote in from
(195.92.nnn.nnn)
The Swiss tend to ride the more flexy decks with their feet almost over the trucks. And they would be pointing more forward than the 'surf style' that many skaters seem to use.
Also set up is important. The Swiss often use a Seismic on the rear (wheras the US style boards tend to have them up front). We supply Indianas in the UK with wedged Randal 150's on the front, no edge rear (negates the camber) and on others we put Rtx wedged front Rts flat rear Trackers with Cambrias or Avalons. This combo of trucks and wheels is pretty much a great standard slalom set up and the boards pump and turn extremely well.
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On 9/19/2003
nifotc
wrote in from
(211.29.nnn.nnn)
Where exactly are you suppose to stand on the swiss slalom de3cks like indiana and airflows? i've got a indiana 85 and have been riding with front foot on the bolts and my back foot 2/3 of the way down the board. Today i tried moving my back foot further back to just in front of the bolts and found that it rode quite differently. How do the swiss ride these boards and what would be the optimal stance to ride this board slalom?
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On 9/18/2003
Keith Johnson
wrote in from
(216.223.nnn.nnn)
Gang
I've done quite a bit of work on my website Surface Motion recently. There's not much in the way of new shooting, but it's completely reformatted and there's a couple of new articles. One article is about coming back from leg injuries. Another is a revised article about the hybrid longboard style I'm working on.
Let me know how it looks. I set it up for 800 wide monitors, but it should be ok on smaller and bigger monitors.
www.surfacemotion.com
KJ
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On 9/18/2003
gavin
wrote in from
(195.194.nnn.nnn)
can anyone give me some advice how to learn frontside layback grinds/tail slides on a ramp? should i be reaching for the coping before the board gets up onto the lip or when its on the lip? also is it better to learn the motion on a small flatish bank, or easier on a bigger transition? any tips gratefully recieved, this ones eluded me for 20 years!!!
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On 9/16/2003
Keith Johnson
wrote in from
(216.223.nnn.nnn)
Sarah
One thing that I learned from surfing that makes a big difference on heelside turns is to reach your arms and upper body toward the upper rail. So if you're digging the heelside rail down to make a carving turn, you reach hard across the board all the way over to the upside rail.
In that way, you counter balance the lean that you make into the turn. You can practically stand the board up on edge doing this.
For toeside, you can do the same thing, but in reverse. Instead of leaning way over into the turn, keep your hands near the board so you can push your hips away from the turn.
If you slow down surfing, snowboarding, or skateboarding in pool tapes, you can see that they do this.
KJ
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On 9/12/2003 Sarah
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
R.ene and Joe, Thanks for the advice.I tried adjusting my line/arc and this really helped! I also loosened my trucks even more which seems to allow for a tighter turning radius. I have a few more questions/comments about bowl riding that I would like some input about. I noticed that riding the bank of a bowl requires the ability to make tight turns at higher speed. I continue to find that sometimes during my turns I end up feeling like my weight is unevenly distributed on my back foot which causes instability and difficulty completing the turn smoothly. I have tried various things to try to get more weight forward. One thing I noticed is that by leading the turn slightly with the upper body in the direction of the turn this helps facilitate things(?). I am also trying various arm positions to help distribute wt./balance and help facilitate turning at higher speeds. Any additional comments or tips are appreciated. Thanks again, Sarah
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On 9/8/2003
Joe & Nick
wrote in from
(63.87.nnn.nnn)
Sarah,
I think a lot of your problem lies in your arc. You need to reach the apex of your turn earlier before you run out of speed. So just try turning sooner or shallower.
Let me know how you do.
Joe
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On 9/8/2003 R.ene
wrote in from
(138.88.nnn.nnn)
hey Sarah!
glad to see you are still ripping it up.
An invaluable piece of advice a local gave me at China Creek Vancouver's super-tight keyhole bowl a long time ago: go high at first, then low. If you enter low and go high, you'll stall or lip out, which is not necessarily bad. But for carving, I find if you go high first, you'll have speed to spare on the way down, and in some bowls you can pump the tranny for more speed.
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On 9/8/2003 Sarah
wrote in from
(139.177.nnn.nnn)
I've been continuing to skate at the park and it rocks.Now I'm trying to learn how to get better at carving a "U" shaped bowl/bank. I have been staying low in the bowl which I have found is a safer way to learn. I need some advice about getting better at this. It seems that you need a certain amount of speed to facilitate completing the turn to avoid stalling. It almost seems easier the faster you go but I am somewhat apprehensive to pick up too much speed. I also wonder about transfer/distribution of weight from my back foot to my front foot during the carve. Sometimes I feel like I get "stuck" on my back foot especially during the later part of the turn.Do you have to transfer weight forward during the turn? I also wonder if I have my back foot far enough back on the kicktail? I have been riding the Bulldog longboard but with its extra lenght I wonder if I get my foot back enough. Also when learning is there a particular "line" that is easier to ride? It seems that taking a higer line initially allows you to exit the turn lower with some speed? Any suggetions about bowl carving for the beginner are appreciated. Thanks again! Sarah
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On 9/2/2003
hc
wrote in from
(130.65.nnn.nnn)
guru? haha, not quite, I just like spreading the word about sliding, cuz it's the one essential technique to learn that makes downhilling riding safe.
I do have a list of recommended wheels on my page.
For soft wheels, I always like the way kryptos break away(the solid color ones) especially the green ones.
I would like to try the new hard 3dm wheels, anybody?
Last time i met cliff, he was grinning from ear to ear cuz his friend gave him a brand new set of powell mini-cubics!
btw, everyone needs a nice hard wheel for sliding.
keep sliding everyone,
hc
www.geocities.com/sk8sanjose/sliding.html
p.s. J, gel wheels?, are you from gunderson high?
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On 8/29/2003
joseph
wrote in from
(211.28.nnn.nnn)
i buy them in australia and they are cheap. i thought the price would be equivelent on the internet oh well. i also have 88a flashbacks and they are good and faster but i still prefer the bombers. on flashbacks you have to wear off the square edge a bit to get a smooth slide otherwise all of a sudden you slide around backwards very quickly.
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On 8/29/2003
brian
wrote in from
(67.250.nnn.nnn)
joseph,
where do you find bones bombers for cheap? solidskate's got em but they're still thirty bucks. i recommend bones bombers for learning too. nice and smooth, keep 'em rotated. i know hc (a bit of a web-skating-guru) prefers flashbacks in a slightly harder duro but i haven't tried them yet.
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On 8/28/2003 herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
Without looking it up,what's your favorite pic of a bert. Paul Constantineau, school yard fence is behind him, one handdown, the other is gonna be planted in a sec, really really low to the ground ,looks like he went in a bit to fast and just on the edge of control. lets way, 60 words or less.
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On 8/27/2003 Keith Johnson
wrote in from
(216.223.nnn.nnn)
Ooops. I mean the "complete snowboarder."
It might take a while to figure out frontside and backside. We've had a couple of discussions about that on this board and it's always confusing. I still go "huh?" whenever I see a picture of a guy doing a handrail slide facing forward and the caption says "backside boardslide."
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On 8/27/2003 Keith Johnson
wrote in from
(216.223.nnn.nnn)
I get it now. If you're coming over a bump with any good speed, and this goes for skiing as well, you want to "soak up" the bump with your knees, even if it means letting your knees come up all the way to your chest. You want to avoid getting airborne. Unless, of course, you want to get airborne! To keep your speed up and in control, you want to maintain wheel contact on the bump or transition to flat top.
You know, I confused heelside and toeside in my explanation. The frontside wall is basically when you do a toeside bottom turn, and a heelside top turn. Actually, books on snowboarding explain this stuff the best. I have one called "The Compete Snowboarder". It has great discriptions of tricks on the frontside wall and backside wall. It explains grabs really well. That book might be more useful than the few skateboard books that are out there.
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On 8/27/2003 Sarah
wrote in from
(139.177.nnn.nnn)
Keith, Thanks for your help! Concerning the hip/lip issue, what I am having trouble with is when I am traveling directly up a small bank or ramp with a rounded lip(no coping) with the intention of rolling gently onto the flat top of the ramp to stop.I seem to feel apprehensive that I will jettison up off the concrete instead of transitioning smoothly onto the flat area above the lip of the ramp. Do you straighten your legs to absorb into the top flat area.I seem to feel like I am either carrying too much speed up the ramp in order to clear the lip and then bail out because I think I'll be airborne. Or I will not have enough speed up the bank and simply roll back down the ramp because I didn't have enough momentum to roll onto the flats above. I hope this helps better describe my dilemma. Thanks again.
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On 8/27/2003
Keith Johnson
wrote in from
(216.223.nnn.nnn)
About the transition on a hip or lip, I'm not quite sure what you mean. Maybe you mean your board is grinding on the bevel coming up over a hip. That would certainly happen on a longboard.
You could push slowly right near the lip and figure out where your board is hitting. Then you'd be ready for it when you come up at speed.
There's no way to make it perfectly smooth longboarding in a park. There's going to be a fair amount of grinding, boardsliding, and slipping no matter what you do. That's part of the challenge. I'd say, start with the rounded obstacles. Then try the same move on a funbox. Then on the pyramid angled hip. Then on the low coping ramp, then last on the higher coping ramp. Work up to different levels.
You should be working on harder tricks on lower obstacles, and easier tricks on harder obstacles or ramps.
In a way, you're always working on two or three levels at a time, on different features.
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On 8/27/2003
Keith Johnson
wrote in from
(216.223.nnn.nnn)
Sarah
Heelside and toeside have different strengths and weaknesses on banks.
I would consider "going heelside" to mean my heels pointing down the bank. I'd call this frontside, like traversing frontside on a bank.
Usually going frontside it's much easier to project yourself up the bank, just like it would be easier on a frontside wave. You can get speed and throw your arms up and do a crunch type of situp move to get your board up higher.
Toeside I would look at as your toes pointing down the bank. This would be like a backside traverse. Backside is usually better for control, because you're looking down the bank and can see where you might fall. You can also put your hands down easily to pivot or control a fall.
So, you have to work on the different sides on a bank or halfpipe and make use of the things that are easier to do.
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On 8/26/2003
joseph
wrote in from
(211.28.nnn.nnn)
what kryptos? are they blue, green, red etc... and what size. i find all the kryptos good to slide on once experienced. depending on what duro they take some speed though. if your looking for slide wheels and am learning get bones bombers slide easy and are cheap if you stuff up and flatspot. what slides are you talking about? colemans?
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On 8/26/2003 j
wrote in from
(216.175.nnn.nnn)
hey im getting into sliding and so far all i have are some kryptonic gel wheels....kinda hard to slide.does anyone have any recomendations for this?
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On 8/26/2003 Sarah
wrote in from
(139.177.nnn.nnn)
R.ene and Bob, Thanks for your recent posts! That info was very helpful. I loosened my trucks and take more speed when traversing banks/ditches and this has helped the stalling/instability problem. Is it normal to be more comfortable traversing "heelside" vs "toeside"? I have also learned that I needed to lower my stance for more stability. I have an additional question concerning how to transition over the top of a small ramp or bank without coping onto the flat after riding up the ramp. It seems like I can't clear the top and roll onto the flat smoothly. Do you have to "pump yourself" over the rounded lip somehow? Thanks again.
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