|
|
|
| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
|
| Topic |
Home Made Boards |
|
American Made Blanks!
|
|
On 8/23/2009
caddy
wrote in from
United States
(209.237.nnn.nnn)
caddy@standbyboards.com
|
|
|
|
|
lets do it again
|
|
On 8/19/2009 Daniel M.
wrote in from
United States
(98.163.nnn.nnn)
Thanks vintage man, heres a few more...
|
|
|
|
|
Nola Decks
|
|
On 7/26/2009 Vintage Man
wrote in from
United States
(66.245.nnn.nnn)
I of course like the green one the best.
The designs and colors are great of all of them!!
cheers
David
|
|
|
|
|
a few more...
|
|
On 7/9/2009
Daniel M.
wrote in from
United States
(98.163.nnn.nnn)
Just thought i'd share a few more, try and help keep this section going. Well see if these picture embeds work...
|
|
|
|
|
Ummmm,,,, Nevermind maybe, more blather for naught.
|
|
On 5/21/2009 Paul Howard
wrote in from
(173.8.nnn.nnn)
I set up the prior mentioned board to see how much fiberglass I would need to add and where to add it to and I have to say it's surprizingly stiff as-is.-P
|
|
|
|
|
SkunkTech
|
|
On 5/16/2009 mcKendry
wrote in from
United States
(67.176.nnn.nnn)
|
|
|
|
|
More of Pauliwog's blather on fiberglass and stiffer decks
|
|
On 5/15/2009 Paul Howard
wrote in from
(173.8.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, I don't know how stiff your Comets are but I have one one or 2 generations prior to the ones you are mentioning and it is quite stiff. It is only about 1/4" thick wood core butcher-block laminated(not true vertical lamination but the pieces are vertically laminated, Two hardwood peices are where the truck mounting holes are, the rest is something pretty light like poplar). 1/4" thick wood vs 1/2" maple ply certainly argues that the wood alone of the 1/2 maple ply should be MUCH, MUCH stiffer because of a rule of materials that follows, if you go twice as wide, you will have twice the stiffness or resistance, but if you go twice as thick, you will have EIGHT times the resistance. Even though we are talking differnt woods in the core, there is enough similarity that the 1/2" 7-ply should alone win in stiffness. In addition the 7-ply 1/2" core in question has much more concave, except for where the tails of each core are concerned, both lack concave.
Now add the fiberglass, if the same fiberglass is added in the same amount to both, the 7-ply maple 1/2" board should be stiffer. BUT, and it's big BUT, the Comet has triaxial prestressed cloth(pre-made? pre-epoxied, pre-stressed in tension and ready to laminate in a sheet with more epoxy next to the wood core????) whereas the project I'm doing won't have that degree of sophisticated precured, prestressed outer laminate of fiberglass, mine will be standard cloth and fairly standard cloth likely not nearly as resistive to compression or tension.
In anything that bends, there is a figure of something like "the outer 15% does 80% of all the work(takes 80% of all the tension and compression)". So, I'm hoping that with the advantage of the thicker core, conventional fiberglass will make significant additional amount of resistance.
So, at the moment I'll make no claims or bets, but if I do it, I'll post results and if I'm thinking ahead, I'll post a sequence of pictures and flex's before and after.
Thanks for the input and I'd welcome anyone else's contributions as well. -P
|
|
|
|
|
comet
|
|
On 5/15/2009 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
i have a couple of comets in my shop,still wrapped, a kick tail with sort of a voodoo/tiki scene and a dh with a central skull with purple hair. Their decks are not ply boards so i don't think you'll be able to make a gravity plied board feel as solid as a comet, doesn't matter what you do with the surface fiberglass.
|
|
|
|
|
More of Paul's Fiberglassing questions
|
|
On 5/14/2009
Paul Howard
wrote in from
(173.8.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, or Anyone Else in the know - What I'm after is that rock-solid stiffness of the old Comet Park series and some of the old Comet downhill boards(a moment of silence again please). I don't neccesarily care to mimic the carbon cloth/sheet look, that doesn't do much for me. If carbon cloth was to be found in my town, I'd use it maybe, but it doesn't seem to be very available locally.
I live in a town of 60,000 and would like to buy off-the-shelf materials from the local hardware or hobbyshop, both of which have a variety of epoxies and fiberglass cloth weights and the hobby shop has some carbon stringer material. I realize Comet used prestressed(and I believe pre-epoxied sheets laminated over the bamboo or wood cores?).
To mimic that pre-stressing, I want to put my deck on 2 sawhorses, bottom side up, put some epoxy on the deck, put the carbon stringers on if I use them, then put the cloth on, then add at least one whole cinderblock's worth of weight to each end of the cloth and stringers if I use them (One weight hanging off the nose, and the other hanging off of the tail) to add tension and pre-stress the cloth in tension, then spread a little more epoxy on and squeegee it smooth and let it cure and file off the remnant cloth. Then, probably add some fiberglass to the top of the deck and extra cloth layer(s) over the bend in the tail since that's where the deck recieves the most stress(it will be used in parks, pools, ditches, tranny's large and small).
My understanding of adding stiffness is that it's mostly coming from the fiberglass CLOTH and it's WEIGHT(thickness and density), Right? The epoxy merely needs to form a good bond with the wood and the cloth and bind the two together and not crack when the board gets flexed(even though stiff, we all know that all decks flex still), right?
Does all that make sense? Am I on the right track to add stiffness? Thanks -P
|
|
|
|
|
fiberglass reinforcing
|
|
On 5/14/2009 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
re:paul ,,You're basicly taking a board that is already strong enough to ride and adding fiberglass, so the structural integrety of the fiberglassing is not critical but it would be nice if you added as much strength/springyness as possible, not just decorating a board in a carbon look.You might as well go and find carbon look shelfpaper. If your purpose for glassing is that the gravity board has got to much flex for your weight,all the more reason to go with a really structural epoxy like west's marine system, or aircraft spruces "polyepoxy"(thee best stuff), i think carbon is actually easier to soak in epoxy, it seems to wick epoxy really well,and takes less to do it so it comes out lighter.
|
|
|
|
|
Fiberglassing Questions
|
|
On 5/13/2009
Paul Howard
wrote in from
(173.8.nnn.nnn)
Hi, I want to take a Gravity Brad Edwards model, completely remove the paint and put some fiberglass (and maybe some carbon) on the top and bottom, with extra on the top of the bend of the tail so will be extra stiff (like the old Comet Parkrider decks - A moment of silence please).
I have some fiberglass and "finishing" epoxy for reinforcing parts on a radio-contolled sailplane. Is "finishing" epoxy a good-enough choice (I don't need perfect, just perfectly good-enough) in terms of not cracking all over and getting a good bond with the cloth and carbon and wood? It is a thinner mix when mixed than most epoxies so I would think it would work well but haven't used in on anything that undergoes much tension and compression and flexing.
Thanks - Paul
|
|
|
|
|
Munchhs pressed layers
|
|
On 4/29/2009 Dominic
wrote in from
United States
(195.93.nnn.nnn)
J, please don't start him off i have to skate with him!!!!!!!!!!
:-)
|
|
|
|
|
Muchh's pressed layers
|
|
On 4/27/2009 yan0
wrote in from
United States
(65.96.nnn.nnn)
Muchh,
I'm going out on a limb here - but I suspect what happened is this - when you pressed two layers together, let them cure, and then pressed a third layer on, the final board shape bounced back less than when you pressed all three layers at once (this is basically what you said). If this is true, the stiffer board should have more concave. This makes a difference stiffness of the board is related to the Area Moment of Inertia (I for the structural engineers) and the Modulus of elasticity, which we can approximate to be fairly linear for the stresses we apply to boards. The AME (I) varies with the square of the distance from the neutral axis. This gets a little hairy to visualize with a board, but think about a beam. Having more concave will increase your board's I, thus making it stiffer. If this all sounds like goobly-gook, take a 2x4 out, lay it between two saw horses with the 4" side down. notice how much softer it is than when you lay it with the 2" side down (as all flooring joists etc are...). Same amount of material, vastly different flexural properties depending on orientation.
If that's not the case, check the wheelbase (... actually, do this first..but I'm assuming that the two boards have the same wheelbase). The board with the shorter wheelbase should be stiffer.
Hope that helps
j
|
|
|
|
|
pressing layers
|
|
On 4/20/2009
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
So can anyone confirm my thoughts,
ate the moment ive been using 3 layers of 3 ply, the HS deck i pressed 2 layers, let it dry then pressed the 3rd on top, the Outlaw was all 3 pressed together.
The HS seems to be alot stiffer, is this because after the 1st press, putting the 3rd layer deforms the 1st later of glue, so it sort of fighting against the second pressing?
Or am i just reading too much into it??
|
|
|
|
|
Slang it is.....
|
|
On 4/19/2009
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
Glad you liked the deck!
"Corker" :
noun, An excellent thing or person,
as in the Adjective: "that Megadeath bunch put on a corking good show"!
Others in the same ilk,
Ripsnorter, spanking, massive, stonker, or Phat!
Anyway, i dont believe in "damned Yanks", you lot cant have all the fun....hehe
TAKEN FROM 'A DICTIONARY OF SLANG' http://www.peevish.co.uk/slang/c.htm
COPYRIGHT - TED DUCKWORTH 2005
|
|
|
|
|
English, not American, and maybe not even slang
|
|
On 4/17/2009 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Munchh, not to sound much like a damned Yank, but what does the adjective "Corked" really mean? Just curious...
|
|
|
|
|
Munchh Madness
|
|
On 4/17/2009 Paulskiivoxg
wrote in from
(173.8.nnn.nnn)
Hmm, pretty cool stuff indeed! -P
|
|
|
|
|
33 Hybrid
|
|
On 4/15/2009
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
This latest HS deck is a corker, a few tweeks on the press and it will be great. i do like your paint jobs Daniel.
|
|
|
|
|
just a few
|
|
On 4/15/2009 munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
Yeah i'm still at it, made a few for friends kids mostly and one for a going away pressie.
|
|
|
|
|
sick
|
|
On 4/13/2009 Daniel M.
wrote in from
United States
(98.163.nnn.nnn)
Sweet munch! Looks good, glad to see you still building.
|
|
|
|
|
33" Hybrid
|
|
On 4/11/2009
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
That did the trick,
33" 20/21/22 WB's, Hybrid i would say,
Ronseal indoor Dimond finish varnish, its quick trying and non toxic, realy tough finish.
hair dryer helped as although the sun came out it was a little damp in the garden, i'll let you know how it rides.....?
|
|
|
|
|
new jig
|
|
On 4/10/2009
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
Made my 1st real press/jig
.......i'll let you all know.
|
|
|
|
|
tumbleweed...........
|
|
On 4/10/2009 munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
............tumbleweed................
|
|
|
|
|
