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| Street Luge (1208 Posts)
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Street Luge Info |
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Videos
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On 9/25/2007 bob
wrote in from
United States
(76.106.nnn.nnn)
Here are a couple of videos... they take a while to load.
Click here for link
Click here for link
parade run at MCGF6.......... uphill you decide.
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harley powered
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On 9/25/2007 hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
bob, thx for that link.
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All Powered
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On 9/25/2007 bob
wrote in from
United States
(76.106.nnn.nnn)
opps here is the link
http://www.poweredstreetluge.com/
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All Powered
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On 9/25/2007
Bob
wrote in from
United States
(76.106.nnn.nnn)
Here is a link to a site Roland made that has all the powered luge's.
Next record attempt for powered luge will be by Roland at the Texas Mile.
Bob
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gas powered
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On 9/24/2007 hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
http://www.gravitydb.com/speed/
Roland Morrison's gas powered street luge
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Rogers
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On 9/22/2007
Jamie M
wrote in from
Canada
(70.49.nnn.nnn)
Did you try the brydenscot one? Sometimes it may take a bit to hear back. Hes a busy guy! Could also post up in the Going Downhill section here.
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Roger Bros Streetluge
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On 9/22/2007
Cauê Lemes
wrote in from
Brazil
(189.6.nnn.nnn)
Hi Guys! Does anyone has the e-mail , msn, phone from the roger Bros ? I would like to buy a streetluge from them, I´ve sent an e-mail but no answer, I´ve tried the one on their web site. As Dave is caming to Brazil on October, I need their contact a bit fast.
Thanks!
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ditched the pegs
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On 9/2/2007
marc
wrote in from
Switzerland
(85.5.nnn.nnn)
Justin, we have all seen you posts, trying to decide which type of everything to use when luging and some people have given you some really good advice. forget the pegged luge, pegless is safe when riding in groups and easier to travel with. get off your computer, and go build something and ride it - then go test again.
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Darren Lotts Book
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On 8/30/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Just got his book its killer...
200 pages and I skimmed it, great info...
I dont normally read but books that are about my hobbies I get sucked into... Probably will have it read tonight!
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Pegged Luge Design
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On 8/30/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Guys I have decided... Pegged luge...
Looking at a few things however...
I was thinking about having a 3 part boom, all 4" wide with two 3/4" plywood sheets laminated together... Now I am thinking though for ultimate strength, simplicity etc... to make what I believe is called a bama style luge... Its a seatpan with two booms attached...
Anyways 13 ply birch, I am thinking a 3/4" seatpan, 3/4" boom spacers and 4" wide booms (two 3/4" ply sheets laminted together)... Should be very solid...
One thing I wanted some help on, what would be a good overlap for the booms (most important the front, as it effects seat position) to the seatpan? 4"s? 6"s? More???
I am probably using titebond or some urethane glue (need more info on it...) and then some bolts...
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Fastest Skateboard
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On 8/30/2007 Skatedude
wrote in from
United States
(70.104.nnn.nnn)
"On 8/25/2007 Jordan wrote in from United States (24.6.xxx.xxx)
So what do you guys honestly would grip better, 83a bigzigs or 75a 83mm flywheels?
Whichever one will handle corners better, I will go with... And Ill design the luge around them...
And if I stick with the bigzigs should I go with 8mm truck axles and my favorite bearings, rockets, or should I get 10mm (incase I use bigger wheels in the future or just to be safe) axles and the landyachtz bearings that come with them...."
I would go with Seismics, guaranteed not to explode at 112mph.
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/exclusive-interview/joel-king-breaks-world-speed-record-on-jet%20powered-luge-294996.php?autoplay=true
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riding
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On 8/30/2007
wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
look up paul busse
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luge clip
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On 8/30/2007 hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
luging an old ice luge track
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6RnNaPj5KM
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NorCal
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On 8/30/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
In the bay area where is the closest place for a beginer/intermediate rider to go ride a closed (safe) course?
I know of the Bonelli course down south, anything closer or better? I really wanna hit Maryhill one of these days to it looks sick!
Oh and recreational, not racing.
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norcal luge
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On 8/30/2007
hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
russ, there is a handful of 'pro' street lugers in the bay area,
where are you located, and what is your skill level?
hc
www.geocities.com/sk8sanjose
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Luge
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On 8/29/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Thanks guys...
Ok so what about if I get some 13ply 3/4" plywood, and do 4" wide booms made of two 3/4" plywood 4" wide strips laminated together?
That would be rock solid and I think somebody on here recommended it... That wont twist to much will it? What would be the best glue to bond them? Where can I get and what type of urethane glue should I get?
Also the seatpan is going to just be 1/4"... I dont want to mess with glass (I do have a lot... and am pretty experienenced)...
Ok a few more things to work out, handle type? What should I look for in handles?
Also, how do I prevent my leg/pants/leathers from hitting the wheels when they are exposed on a rail type luge?
And Russ, I live near San Jose... Their are some luge races in SoCal and I am trying to see whats needed to get a permit for "The Dinosur"... Its a 2.5 mile long hill good for 60-70 on a luge, but the rangers will kick you off without a permit...
Its in Gilroy... Looks awesome...
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Street Luge
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On 8/29/2007
Russ
wrote in from
United States
(67.181.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys ive been getting into street luge alot latly and i was wondering if anyone knows of a street luge league in nor call hit me back if you know anything.
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Woodie addenda
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On 8/29/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, go with footpegs. If you don't want them, hey, cut them off later.
"Angle iron" reinforcement, um, maybe... Aluminum channel in an 'L' will twist, a lot. You'll have to glue it on, and I'd even recommend using small(#8 or 4mm) screws + T-nuts in strategic spots to bind the angle-bits onto the wood. 'C' channel is a good deal stiffer, but again, it can twist easily. The stuff you'd get from a hardware vendor is light-weight, un-heat-treated, basic mush. You'd want better metal, so look at industrial suppliers for ladder manufacturers. By the time you add thick-enough aluminum C channel, glueing, and t-nuts, you might as well put a layer of 3/16" Birch tech-ply + fiberglass to your seatpan. Did I mention that wood + metal don't really 'bond' well? I know I did mention urethane glue before, but now you'll need ski/snowboard flexible epoxy and you'd be in want of a good press/mold too. Glass it, add a layer of marine-quality or tech-ply thin veneer wood, and you'll be alright.
Truck placement: It is a personal choice, as would be bushing or wedge set-up. Leave room fore/aft for changes in overall wheelbase. Start with the front at mid-thigh, the rear just behind your head. 44" to 58" wheelbase is what I've had the best results with, but I've run shorter and longer, depending on sled build; steering required; stability wanted; and truck characteristics. You've got Options with you truck choice, so, don't sweat it until you've run it awhile. I did say to run it awhile?! Yeah, dialin' it in takes some roadwork, and then some re-working, followed by more road time...
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Pegged Option
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On 8/29/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Option D which I am really thinking about now... Its pegged... Its a boom luge... 3/4" 13ply plywood, 4" wide... Makes up the three boom sections... It will have angle iron for reinforcement... Each will bolt to the other threw the angle iron for extra strength... I think I could make a stronger, cooler and better riding pegged luge and for recreational riding it still seems to be up there with the pegless... Plus I will have many years to come to try out pegless and maybe it will be better! But I am thinking about going with my instinct of pegged...
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LONGER story
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On 8/27/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Here is what I posted on the 'fish, its same info but much more detailed... I am leaning towards type A or B, but type C is a good bit simpler and may be more comfortable...
Ok so I have 3 designs now... Help me pick! They also have there own variations... All are "pegless" but some have a full platform, others have a peg for the leg to rest on behind the knee.
What would you recommend?
Design "A"...
http://lugeforce.tripod.com/build/build.html ... Except for a few mods... The booms will be 3/4" plywood instead of 2x4's. The front and back booms will have angle iron attached for strength on the top outside edges, the bottom on the bottom outside edge.... I think this will be just as strong as stacked 3/4"s, if not better. A 3/4" or 1/2" plywood spacer between each will still be used for extra drop, 4 mounting bolts will be used and instead of going threw the wood layers only they will be in the four corners and go threw the top angle iron, threw the 3 layers of wood (front or back top boom, spacer and lower boom) and then the lower angle iron... Should be a really solid attachment and wont need gussets... Then it will simply have a shorter front boom and bike pegs will be just behind my knees for support...
Design "B"...
A 3/4" 13ply seat pan with 4" wide front and back booms made of 3/4" plywood, also with angle iron on top... Will most likely also have a spacer. Very similar to the hybrid luge design that was recently posted in here... And similar to many other rail designs (instead of a boom with a seatpan on top like design A, the seatpan is alone and is connected to the front and back boom, simpler... Not sure if its stronger)...
The front boom will still have the same sort of pegs as design A, only difference is that the seatpan is thick and has no boom underneath it... Bolts to attach the front and back booms will go threw the angle iron, threw the boom, the spacer, the seatpan and then will have large washers on the bottom...
Design "C"
See this link...
http://www.skateluge.com/images/strtlg02.jpg
Its the luge in the back...
Reason I like A and B is I think they will look cooler and possibly be lighter... Design A might be the lightest as the structure for the seatpan is the angle iron reinforced 4" wide 3/4" plywood, and then the seatpan is just 1/4" plywood (verses a full 3/4" plywood seatpan)...
With C I would do the same handles, A and B would be similar (not how luge force did it)...
So any thoughts???
Any of them stronger? Easier for truck mounting? More comfortable? Easier to mount crotch and head rests etc....
Thanks...
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Truck Placement
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On 8/27/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Ok so I need to design on whether I am doing a rail type luge but with a peg for my leg to rest on (thats type A)... A flat 3/4" seat pan but with 4" wide rail style front and backs also with a peg for my leg to rest on (type B) or a wide seatpan with wide front and backs... And the front is what my leg rests on... Type C...
Which would you guys go for and why? With the first two I am looking into ways to use just a single 3/4" plywood but to reinforce it with angle iron...
Also I have looked at a bunch of pictures and I cant seem to find a luge with the front truck in the "proper" position!!!
I have heard two guidlines, in between mid thigh and butt and another more specific one, when sitting up and looking inbetween your legs you should be able to see all 4 mounting holes for the trucks but your crotch should almost hide the back two...
Is that right? From pics most front trucks seem to be closer to the knees then to this!!!
Last, does anybody think 3/4" plywood with angle iron attached every 6"s will be any less strong then a double laminate of 3/4" plywood? If I go with a rail type I need to decide for the boom (I dont want 2x4's) if I want double stacked plywood or angle iron reinforced single plywood...
Ill probably spend the money for 13 ply either way... But it will still be only 4"s thick so I may need more structure...
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Design
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On 8/27/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Yeah I think I have the wheel and trucks issues sorted its just the luge design...
I am looking at a few designs...
Either I do a 3/4" plywood seatpan with aluminum rectangular tubing front and back, or 3/4" plywood truck mounts and leg rest...
Another idea is more like the luge force rail design that uses 2x4's, but instead of using 2x4's Ill use two 3/4" plywood 4" wide sheets laminated together...
Not sure if I will have a full leg rest or just some pegs that my legs rest on (like the hybrid metal/wood luge I posted a link to)...
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Less complicating...
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On 8/27/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, better to sort this out here and now than after you've cut up some wood!
Sounds good, should be sweet!
The 4-wheels-to-an-axle setup was from Moe Racing. Last place I saw them on anything other than someone's sled was on Soul Longboard's site.
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Street Luge
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On 8/26/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Geez I keep making this over complicated...
So I think its down to to things now...
Sticking with 4 75a 83mm fly wheels... bear grizzly trucks and 10mm axles.
Either a wood luge with all 3/4" plywood parts or a hybrid like this one...
http://www_silverfishlongboarding_com/forum/showthread.php?t=49643
This thread has a neat luge its pegless, but instead of a full leg support it has pegs which your legs can rest on...
Neat design...
Also I can experiment with a design like this on my idea peg placement, maybe Ill even cut slots so the pegs are adjustable forwards and back? Might be neat...
I just have to make sure I can attach the metal components to the wood well... And do all the other work with the metal (checking on that with my dad...)...
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Double Wheels?
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On 8/25/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
I saw somewhere somebody had 4 wheels per truck...
How is this done?
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