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| Wheel Reviews (7944 Posts)
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Cherrys vs Aluminators
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On 3/23/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
This is a comparison,they both have excellent virtues.Alum. definitely quicker off the line,cherrys come roaring in faster at the bottom ,could barely make the corner especially with the dusting of winter gravel thats still there,with the Cherrys I felt as though the slowing carves were much more necessary and I still drifted on the gravel,wider harder wheels sit on more gravel(more road) and don't flex around it as well to grab the road. At the bottom on clean road the Cherrys slide my final u-turn with a trumpeting grippy feeling, the Aluminators slide with a dusty silence that doesn't feel as grippy,while rolling they do feel a little grippier.
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Wheel cone
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On 3/22/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
I've had strange wheel coning issues. I have a new set of 65mm Power Paws, and with very little riding the backs are coning a lot on the inside. I had a set of dual/duro Sector nine wheels that did the same thing. I've got a set of 70mm Road Riders that have a lot of mileage on them but almost no coning at all. A set of Powell cross bones with a ton o' cone and a set of Dogtown K9's that have no coning at all. I don't get what causes the coning. The hard wheels have been on the same deck so it's not a truck alignment issue. And the sector nines and Road riders have been on the same deck.
Any ideas?
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Cherrys
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On 3/21/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
My first set of Cherry Bombs have some serious riding time on them now and they're only about half way down to the size of turbos those 6mm are around a fairly large wheel so its a good sized amount of urithane, i'm not sure why the price difference is so big,the cores seem identical,it depends on what money is worth to you,if you flat spot a turbo (unlikely) its shot but flayspoting a cherry is even less likely.
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Exkate Wheels
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On 3/20/2000 Marcus
wrote in from
(130.39.nnn.nnn)
I was wondering why Cherry bombs (82mm) are roughly double the price of the turbo wheels(76mm)? They appear to be the same other than the 6mm difference. Is there something I'm missing? Is there a noticable difference in performance? Are the Cherry bombs worth it?
Thanks,
Marcus
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Road Riders
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On 3/20/2000
Ustwest
wrote in from
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I've been riding 70mm road riders pretty hard for three months. They're coned in a whole lot but it doesn't seem to affect the ride very much.
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Quix or somthing like that
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On 3/20/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
These were some other wheels with rubber on the edges,a bit after the emotions,there are some new all rubber wheels,I think they're euro,and of course the smooth Xtremes,remember when Emotions first came out there were two models one had an inner rubber tread to,I'm not sure why rubber would be the tire material of automotive choice and generally suck for skateboards,unless your looking for a grippy, easy to control, speed wheel (slow).Urithane is just bad for wet conditions,I think thats why you don't see them for cars ect ,they might be to dense also (heavy),later.
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Cone, Wheel Wear, Emotions
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On 3/20/2000 Mario
wrote in from
(205.227.nnn.nnn)
When I was younger I used to "tic-tac" everywhere. That would cone the front wheels on the outside. When I started sliding I coned the back wheels on the inside. These days I'm just pumping and sliding, so the fronts don't get coned much.
I had Emotions, the older square ones, not the newer (circa 1979) rounded ones. I thought they sucked because my brother's 70mm blue Kryptos were so much faster. Then I switched the bearings and the Emotions were faster, but my brother would have none of that and switched back. I still think those older blue Kryptos were great wheels, and I'd take them over Emotions for sure.
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Dr Who?
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On 3/17/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Time Portal?That's nothin' my Tandy TRS 80 can't handle.It does all my calculations for entering the continuim,And gets me internet access!Watch out,Herbn,I'll Zap you back to when Strokers were $27 a pop. Beandip,I checked my trusty ol' Sims Snakes,and they're coned In.That kinda supports the theory of wear as to cores,not resilience.I hope that someone at Power Paw takes note of your mentioning the Emotion,as an updated version could be an insane ride!
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Emotions
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On 3/17/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Emotions,interesting name,the one that still seems to effect us is nostalgia, ask Tony if there are any situations he'd like to have those old wheels except of course selling them to collectors on e bay,the first fast hard wheels i had were Pacers , with the oversized bearings, learned to pump on those. Kryptonics were the first fast soft wheels but they jumped to a modern level when the edges got rounded and the cores came in. Roadriders,OJs and all the other old wheels? slugs.Though the harder park riding formulas wern't bad.The new stuff rules,no question.
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Wheel wear
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On 3/16/2000 beandip
wrote in from
(171.211.nnn.nnn)
Glad to know others are experiencing this same phenomena. After pondering what P-S Rider and herbn have offered, it must be the hubs. As for the "Powerflex portal", only if I can get two yellow and two blue, or four different colors.
I'd really like to access this portal and get my hands on a set of emotions, though. As Tony Alva said of those wheels, "The rubber holds, and the urithane speed flows." Might just add a new twist to the cone in/out debate...
Cheers!
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wheel wear
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On 3/16/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
There was an old (real old) article in "Skateboarder" about this though i don't know how it applies to modern wheels, I feel that the urithane around the bearings is more solidly supported so it gets worn more,the other urithane (outer edge) can flex in more,even if its supported by a core ,so instead of wearing off it gives (the meek shall rule)now if you over tighten trucks to the point where your board tips as it turns the outside edge may take more of a beating. Powerflex? Roadrider 6s? this website must have a time portal,how about those new pong games, or that StarWars movie,any reveiws? personally I don't think people will go for that kind of stuff.
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Wheel wear
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On 3/16/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Beandip,do ya think that having stiff plastic cores might influence the wear on newer wheels,thus making them cone out?My RoadRider 4's+6's always coned in,becoming really radial in profile,but my Stradas,and Krypto C-70,65,60's,are coned out.I have a hunch that resilliency also is a factor in wear,but,alas I've no Powerflex 7's to compare to the RoadRider 6's.
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POWER PAWS FOR ENTROPY
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On 3/16/2000
BOYO FUZZ
wrote in from
(193.62.nnn.nnn)
Hey ENTROPY,
Yeah man, get the Power Paws...I got a set of ALUMINATOR 74a's, they run a treat. Real good for downhill (very slight loss of speed), but grip like dags to a sheep's arse! Especially good for slightly gravelly terrain (you know what it's like in the land of the dragon - you gotta take the rough with the smooth...hooray for tingly feet!), the 74 rubber providing a little extra grip and smoothness - speed is not a factor on chunky roads.
I also run Krypto 70mm 82a's (BLUE) and 61mm Nineballs 78a...with combinations of ABEC, BLACK PANTHER and GRAVITY bearings.
It's like in the GRAND PRIX brother, you gotta choose the appropriate tyres depending on conditions/location...
FORMULA ONE FUZZ
xxx
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Power Paw
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On 3/15/2000
DT
wrote in from
(63.26.nnn.nnn)
Well worth the money and very grippy
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Cone out
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On 3/15/2000 beandip
wrote in from
(152.166.nnn.nnn)
Regarding the recent posts on cone out.
When I was a kid, my wheels used to cone in. Be they Cadillacs mounted on Chicago trucks, Road Riders on Bennett's, or Kryptos on Half-tracks, my wheels always coned in. It wasn't a problem, in fact they worked better (lower rolling resistance) when coned in. This was in fact the genesis for Steve Cathy designing Yo-Yo's for G&S.
So why the hell are my wheels coning out now? I have three boards, three different sets of trucks and three sets of coned out wheels. I've put on a couple of pounds since the 70's, but this pattern doesn't make any sense to me (and my axles don't appear bent at all). I still lean the same way on the board. Why don't my wheels wear the same? Help?
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Aluminators
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On 3/15/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
great wheels, cool look,I guess the price is not as tough on me as it is on others (skate shop owner)though here in jersey there are other factors that may level the paying field.Still they are the Apex mags i never found(or could afford) as a kid.Great carvers ,though I think they lack a little in the speed department, on a smoothill. Like in snowboarding if the snow is slow or your base is slow,just point it at the lodge until your need for speed it fulfilled.later
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Power Paws my favorite
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On 3/15/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
In my hardly ever to be humble opinion I think that the power paws are a great carving wheel. On my boards they work wonderfully!! I think that they are worth the wait... I would suggest against spending the extra dollars on the aluminators. They don't carve any better than the standards although they do look very cool. I own 2 sets of 70mm 74a and have an order in for a set of 70mm 78a's. They get my vote as a great carving wheel... HR
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Kryptonics 78a or Power paws 74a
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On 3/15/2000 entropy
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Is it worth spending the extra money to get a set of power paws from usa or shall i just go down the shop and get some kryptonis?
I skate big hills and have a love for the carve will these paws do the trick?
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Lathe Tools
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On 3/14/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,You are right about a chisel being risky.I should mention that I've put in a few years doing odd wood/machine shop jobs,and kinda have "a touch" with tools,and sometimes improvise,and deal with what's at hand to work with.Nevertheless,I can honestly say I've gotten good results with nothing better than a Shopsmith and two cutters,one of which being that ugly chisel.I am deferring to your wisdom as to a "correct" setup for a lathe,as the precision of a well set up lathe can yield incredible results.Urethane,being as soft as it is,takes a light touch to shape,and is sensitive to factors like R.P.M.'s,heat build-up,and the pressure one cuts into it with.Your thoughts on set-up for the cutter(s),R.P.M.'s,Etc?
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Coning and Wheel rotation
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On 3/14/2000 Blah
wrote in from
(128.54.nnn.nnn)
While one the subject of coned out wheels, if you don't have access to a lathe, and have wheels with centered bearing seats, what is a good wheel rotation pattern?
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lathe cut wheels
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On 3/12/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
a metal cutting lathe with a tool post that clamps the cutting tools (chisels?insane!or at least risky)with a metal lathe,you can also make a spindle and spacer set up that holds an entire set of wheels,separated, so you can cut bevels then round off the edges.a sharp beveled tool will peel off layers like wrapper, a round nose or parting tool will grind off the surface in grainy urithane dust,some cuts work better for different urithanes.
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Roller Coast Wheels™
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On 3/12/2000 man
wrote in from
(195.204.nnn.nnn)
I found these weird wheels at a garage sale! They are really stupid. ca. 90mm wide!
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lathed wheels
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On 3/12/2000
Ali
wrote in from
(212.189.nnn.nnn)
I bow down to the master :)
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Lathed wheels
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On 3/11/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Ali,I've done this many,many times.I have kept wheels going WAY past their normal lifespans,just by minimizing the cone-out effect BEFORE it deforms the running surface of the wheels.My all time Favorite wheel is my 1979 Kryptonic C-70 Reds,which are flat-backed,have a small core,with a highly offset bearing placement.At 2-1/2" wide,and the back bearing flush with flat back of the wheel,the cone-out effect is rather severe,if left unchecked.That vintage of Krypto,if Red,is a 78A durometer,and feels even softer than that.I still own that wheel set,which now are 64mm,But totally flat,and still reasonably fast.As to the machining,you do have to use a soft touch,and have a lathe that is accurate,and cutters that are true and sharp.As I said,be patient,measure often,and work with a soft touch.The results are worth it.
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Kryptos Hawaii K 70mm 78a
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On 3/11/2000
safe-secure
wrote in from
(24.94.nnn.nnn)
Out of all the krptonics wheels I've tried with my 48" pintail, these grip the least. I think it's because they have a radiused (or rounded) edge inside and out. Other kryptos have a hard inside edge and rounded outside. Hawaii K's have a smaller surface area than the classic k or route 70's which means less grip. But they do slide well.
Anyone know how the classic k's compare with power-paws? Just curious.
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