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| Freecarving (257 Posts)
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Things that make Ya say Hmmm...
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On 9/24/2004 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(24.53.nnn.nnn)
Looking over the Hammerhead from Loaded gave me an interesting possible set-up,but one I can ill afford to do. Taking the Flowlab front "truck", and making the deck sit down into the "U" shape, and then mounting something quick turning like Z-Trucks as drop-throughs at the rear. You'd want get stickier 'Goalie' inline wheels (76a or softer)in the 65mm-70mm class to have enough grip at the outer our wheels,but 80A up to 86A in the middle is fine to preserve some momentum. If the deck used has a stiffish flex,and camber,(like an Insect G.S. or stiff Summit Sidewinder) then add a wide,fat,sticky rear wheel set to keep the tail glued down... If anyone gets brave enough to put this together,Please let me borrow it for two weeks! I'll pay shipping just use it up in Sandgate in The Notch.
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Lonerider's Vanguard
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On 9/23/2004 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(24.53.nnn.nnn)
LR,you can easily just add some negative wedging (fat ends towards board's ends) to reduce the quick steering of the Original truck. I would think that would be a decent solution, but I've only been on Original trucks a very few times. With the Randals,I've noticed that the narrower versions (150 R2,160 R1) do deeper turns better. Wheel Scrub isn't as prevalent, but I'm unsure as to why. Could simply be lees torque applied to the bushings? I dunno.. Anyway,with most of my cut-down snowboards,using the Randals with a taller, softer bushing works well for leaning more. The "barrel" type of Khiro (bottom bushing), Tracker's hourglass Slalom bushings, or Sunset Quad-rollerskate "soft dance" bushings all fit the stock kingpin If you use thin Stainless M14 flatwashers. Putting in a kingpin that's 1/8" or 1/4" longer will let you stack up washers or use old ACS/Bennett/Lazer sized bushings (the Sunsets are quite similar). If I want stability,but Some turning,I'll use Stimulators on the bottom, and I've been using Duane's tactic of not putting in the flatwasher between the baseplate/bottom Stimulator to increase lean. Giving the trucks enough lift to keep the wheels from rubbing has done good things, although that's not so much of an issue with the Vanguard deck (Just don't step on a wheel!). In using Wedges, you can jack up an R-2 as much as 15* at the nose, and 10* at the rear. Putting that much extra tilt into the trucks will make them nervous at speed, even with Stimulator bushings in them. Even so,the max lean is going to only be 30*, unless you take a roundfile to the inner hole of the hanger and oval it out to fit around the kingpin (this CAN weaken the trucks, and I'd be very conservative with the file at first).Getting that deep snowboard type of lean is a problem that I've only seen solved by Carveboards(heavy,pricey),Flowlab(not 'nuff grip),and Tierney (very unstable at moderate/lower speeds) skates. Although Loaded's "hammerhead" looks like a decent stab at it. If we could only get Herbn to mass produce those Stroker-Inspired trucks of his, we'd be set!
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Original trucks video?
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On 9/22/2004 GlenD
wrote in from
United States
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Where did you see the Original Trucks video?
I didn't see any on their web page.
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Original vs Randalls
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On 9/22/2004
Lonerider
wrote in from
United States
(206.65.nnn.nnn)
Hey SS and PSR, I currently have a Loaded Vanguard with R2-180s and Grippins 81a and I like to carve it around a bit... but I can't quite get the board "lean" and wide carve that I want as I'm trying to get an alpine snowboard-ey feel.
I saw a video of the Original trucks and I like the deep board lean, but the trucks seem a little too turny for me. I want something that I can get a 20-30 degree tip, and yet turn in about 10-15 feet (I want to be able to crouch down into the carve for half a second). I was wondering what your thoughts are on that... like PSR, do the 150s tip more, or do they just turn tighter for a given board lean? What bushing do you use? SS, are the 200mm Originals a little "less" tight turning?
Thanks for all the help.
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originals
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On 9/20/2004 GlenD
wrote in from
United States
(4.3.nnn.nnn)
are they are low as Indy's or are they tall like Exkates, Baku, Randals?
I'm looking for something low, the Seismic may be the only thing in sharp turning low category.
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Original trucks
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On 9/19/2004
silversurfer
wrote in from
United States
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
Original's are good.
They are more turny and less stable than
Randal R2's.
There great for a super surfy carvy board.
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Original Trucks
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On 9/19/2004 GlenD
wrote in from
United States
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Does anyone know how they compare to
Randal 2's, Baku, or Exkates.
I have owned Randal's, and own Baku and Exkate 2s so I know they're ride.
Also, anyone have an idea how much are the Originals per pair?
I was thinking about changing out the trucks on my Ed Econ. bank rider. ( currently Invaders) I like
the feel of the trucks I have, but could use some tighter turning for some of the streets in my area.
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original trucks
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On 9/3/2004 lasse
wrote in from
Sweden
(81.229.nnn.nnn)
i have set up a hommade board with cutouts 30" wheelbase with originals 8" hanger
first rides was so strange the trucks felt so twitchy and wobbly to carve, now i getting used to them, turned them tighter, its like a progressive feeling not so much turning in the middle but boy do they turn, i am going to wear out my 83mm new flywheels 75A, its true about the turning, you can wip it around in 6 feet, with just a bit of speed the the wheels start to slide consider it for a moment, sliding with 83mm 75A at pushing speeds
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hand slides
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On 7/6/2004 wacky
wrote in from
(67.169.nnn.nnn)
hey carvecats...
those hand slides are bare palms not w/gloves
i have slider gloves i use for my longboards
but the carveboard controls the carve and all
the variables so well that you can fully trust
and commit to anything deep & steep w/o worrying
about a sketchy slide out or maintaining full
control at speed ...a nice 10-12mph carve gets you
in the full flow and can be sped up to 15-17mph for
a little more "big wave" style riding ...then the
hands stay clear of the pavement and the focus is
a bit more intense!
peace ...monson
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the real carve
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On 7/6/2004 wacky
wrote in from
(67.169.nnn.nnn)
hey carvecats...
i love my longboardin' ...but for that truly
insane taking it dep & steep carve experience
you have got to try out a carveboard w/the big
pneumatic tires ...you literally feel like you
are surfing on water!
you can get so low and so laid out on your carves
that hand slides where you just skim the surface
of the road are the rule and not the exception to
any stylish run ...something i can usually do only
about half the time on my carviest longboard set ups!
they are a little spendy but you can find them used
on ebay or on the carveboard forums for a killa deal
every once and a while ...mine was a pawnshop purchase
2 months old for $175 i was stoked!!
so ...bottom line the carveboard carves like no other!!
i have tried setting up many decks to mimic this ride
and have yet to find a truck & deck combo that recreates
anything close ...maybe a new evo landy with some 90mm
or 97mm flywheels w/the smaller hub and then experiment
w/a range of trucks to fit the set up (bakus/randals/
originals/seismics)...i would also be curious about trying
a bozi or landy wedgenose style and see how well those decks
throw down a deep in the groove kind of carve
always on the search for the search for the ultimate carve!!
peace ...monson
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wheel hop
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On 7/2/2004 ss
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
"Do you get any wheel hop from overloading the grip when cutting it tight? "
Not if you are not going too fast. Tight full circles (or s turns) will control your speed on super steeps. If you are going too fast you may slide or hop depending on road surface. Your wheel selection will also greatly effect whether you will slide or hop, as will your technique.
I have more of a carving style than bombing, and wheel hop has not been a problem.
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The Ride...
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On 7/2/2004 silversurfer
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
is awesome, it's not metal to metal contact. They use a special bushing, it's not at all like a regular bushing. It's made of ballistic nylon or something.
The spring and design make the ride very nice, but most importantly you get super precision turns that can't be done on any other board.
Believe the 6ft. turning circle for the 47", the 43" Freestyle model turns tighter than that
With 75a Gumballs the ride and handling are so smoooth and it can TURN. Your ride on these trucks will be affected by the wheels you choose. I like the whole Abec 11 line.
Original trucks are different from eXkates in that they do not require different bushings to adjust the firmness/softness or tightness/looseness
instead they have a hex key adjustment that give a wide range of options.
They feel a little different from other trucks some people get on my board and think that it feels really loose. But to me it's soo stable. I wouldn't want it any other way. Although for an experiment I want to try their 180mm trucks on a dropped speedboard, with big Flywheels like the new 83mm in 75a.
I found out recently that I can't ride any other board without Original trucks, I try to make the turn and I don't make the turn. Not good.
What is the shape and size of the Hot Blast? With Original trucks your deck must be designed to prevent wheel bite. A regular deck woudn't really work, but a speed board or a pintail or something with special wheel cut outs would work.
Original is supposedly working on a vert lam wood and fiberglass deck that will have concave and camber in some sort of modified pintail shape. This new is designed to work with the wider 180mm Original trucks. Should be very cool.
I don't work for Original or anything I just really like their products.
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Orignal Super Carve trucks
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On 7/2/2004 PSR
wrote in from
(24.53.nnn.nnn)
SS,how do those ride? Is it all metal-to-metal in there? I can clearly see how they'd get a deep lean and turn out of that design! At first glance,I was skeptical about the claim of a 6ft. turning circle on a 47" board. Do you get any wheel hop from overloading the grip when cutting it tight? Looks cool,maybe even cooler than Exate trucks. Hmm,I've got an old Hot Blast that might need the edges trimmed off;those could be the trucks for it,eh?!
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road widths
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On 7/1/2004 ss
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
Bugs, a softer wheel, say a 75a along with Oringinal trucks and you wont need wide roads YOU WILL BE ABLE TO CARVE ANYTHING!
For wheels I want to try the new Abec 11 GRIPPINS AND FLYWHEELS
the grippins should give more grip than flashbacks
or you could go to a softer flashback of course
3DM avilas and avalons are very grippy also.
those emotion 75mm wheels look interesing
PSR if you get those you should let us know how they perform.
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Oh yeah...
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On 7/1/2004 ss
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
another thing my 43" and 47" Oringinals both turn MUCH tighter than a 29" Bahne Black Hill slalom board with a Seismic front truck.
Original long boards actually turn more quickly than any short board with conventional trucks, or even seismics or randals. At least that has been my experience.
If you want to get that snowboarding/surfing feeling this is the way to go,
altough the Stik would be fun to try also similar concept
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Ah, Bugs...
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On 7/1/2004
silversurfer
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
My personal seceret is the Original Super Carve spring loaded trucks. Mine are mounted to the Oringinal Freestyle 43 deck. This deck looks exactly like a 43" snowboard with 4 holes cut into it (to prevent wheel bite). I have Gumballs (75a) and PT ceramic bearings to complete the set up
This board can turn much sharper than anything I've ever seen! Bugs, my street is narrow, and some what steep. With this board I ride rail to rail, just like snowboarding. On my street I start out with some nice wide s turns down the wide section, and then tighter and tighter s turns. And only then, when the speed starts to get too high to control, I start to turn back up the hill into full circles. Going down the hill a little further with each circle, just spriling down. Then I have to turn around and head back up on the last section to avoid flying into a high traffic street. Most fun I've had on a board.
The Original board and trucks are truly amazing. If you want to carve tight on narrow roads these are the ticket. Highly recommened, their moto is "built to carve". You can check them out at
www.originalskateboards.com
Just for kicks (and carves) check out these too;
www.stik.com (fantastik surk style skate video)
www.carverskateboards.com (check out the guy surfing the sidewalk on an actual surfboard)
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Roads,Oy,oy,oy...
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On 7/1/2004 PSR
wrote in from
(24.53.nnn.nnn)
Bugs,I try riding on roads that're two-laned With a shoulder when using longer boards.Some of the fore-mentioned condo roads have no shoulder,making life a bit more exciting.The coolest road nearby me is a By-Pass highway under construction.It's 3+ lanes wide,smooth as glass,not too steep,but has enough pitch to get rolling along nicely.It's a luxury to be able break out a Landyatchz DH(with Gumballs)and see just how fast it'll go before sliding in a turn!That's the exception,though.The ECES rockered board has just enough steering to get a 'loop' turn on a two-lane,provided it's sticky enough tar.There's a nice old country road,on the backside of Equinox Mountain,that scoots up from Sandgate through "The Notch" that just got resurfaced last fall.There,I'm forced to use a much shorter board.So my fave ride there is a cut-down Joyride snowboard,about 33" long(compare it a Landyatchz "mummy")that runs a slalom-style truck setup.I like it with a turny,tall truck up front,and a Seismic at the rear,and SOFT Avalons or Flashbacks.It makes me stand a bit narrower than I do on my Alpine Snowboard,as the wheelbase is under 20"(my hardboot stance is usually 20"-21"),but it gets around the corner quickly enough to deal with steeper/narrower roads.Another thing to note,beside length and wheebase,is a board's flex/camber.Most Slalom boards out now are designed to increase thrust when pumped through a turn.Older boards,like my 70's vintage Hobieflex(Think 'G+S Fibreflex')flex enough to actually help scrub speed,and the action of flexing increases the turning angles at the trucks.A great example of that build type is Summit's Sidewinder,which has a huge camber bulge under the rear foot,and a lot of flex,too. A little trick I found growing up around here was to keep older,slower bearings,and toss those into boards I would use to hit big hills. I can't say I do that much anymore,but I do recall it working on less manuverable boards like my old solid-maple 38" homemade kicktail.Oh,yeah,and note rubber wheels.I have Smokebombs,which despite being nearly 80mm tall(and FAT),are slow.The rubber just dosen't carry speed like urethanes do.The Grip is pretty good,and dosen't drastically change when you hit a damp spot.I've heard that Summit's rubber wheels are quite slow,but Very Sticky.Emotion (available through Skates on Haight) is still making wheels that are both Urethane and Rubber (originally for Pool Riding,but now also made in 75mm size),with the rubber being the outer half of the tread.I'm thinking I probably want a set or two of those. So,try for a shorter wheelbase and/or a flexier board to get tighter turns on steeps.Look at how well your trucks turn;Look at the bushings first,then consider wedges to increase steering. As for wheels,well,Grip is good almost always.Just don't go with more wheel(in height)than you need.A fat,but smaller wheel can give you a good carve,but keep the speed within reason.If you've got smoother tar,you can get away with a harder wheel.If it's like my roads,then you're happy that they now make sub-78A durometer wheels!
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Road width
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On 7/1/2004 Bugs
wrote in from
(220.4.nnn.nnn)
SS and PSR, how wide are the roads you're riding on? I'm also an alpine snowboarder, and love to simulate the deeply angulated full C turns that I do on a snowboard, but the roads where I live are very narrow - usually only barely 2 car-widths. When it gets steeper I just can't get my speed down before I run out of width, and I'm on a fairly short, quick-turning board. If I try and turn tighter I just slide out, especially if I hit the white stripes on the edge of the road - they're damn slippery! Using either 78 or 84 Flashbacks for wheels...
I'd love the space to actually be able to turn back up the hill. I always feel that with enough width I could carve anything, but I haven't been able to test this theory yet...
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S-Camber ECES board
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On 6/29/2004 PSR
wrote in from
(24.53.nnn.nnn)
SS,I use Randals,the 160mm hanger on the R-II bases,slightly negatively wedged(fat ends towards the ends),because the nose has some serious upturn on it.For wheels,I like running Avalons on it for grip,and sometimes will use harder Flashbacks(84A)if I'm letting it slide some.The board is just under 4ft long,and about 8-1/2" at the widest.It dips about 2" in rocker,most of the bend is up front,so my front heel is usually just at axle height. Um,steepness is a tough one to measure unless there's a highway gradient sign around.Vermont is mostly hills.I've run controlled,non-sliding runs on stuff that's around 12%,after that,it's really hard to make smooth turns without breaking into a slide.In technique,I use what I teach for Racing Snowboards.I try for keeping my shoulders level to the slope.In quicker turns,I'll overexaggerate that move,actually lifting the uphill shoulder/arm to 'throw' more body weight back up the hill.I keep the knees Always bent,but I also try to keep weight pushing into the board.The only time I let up on pressuring is in switching from toe-to-heel or vice-versa.At the feet,I use a move that also works on Snowboard;I work the feet through a turn by using the front foot first,then pressure at both feet,ending the turn cycle on the back foot,ready to start with the front foot again.Having that front foot start the turn assures that the delay from one turn to the next is minimal.I try also to make my arcs cross the hill early,as to scrub speed better.If you delay,or turn too little,you'll gain too much speed,so rythym and timing are crucial.Doing 'full arcs',where you carry your turn back up and around is cool.I strive to make half arcs do,but there are those times where you've got to point it back uphill... ;-) Ocassionally,I'll point it back up,and then carve it back fakie(btw,that's tougher to do on say,a Turner,than it looks!). The carving purist in me keeps me working on well-placed and timed smaller turns,pushing it right to traction's edge,and keeping the line smooth and uncluttered.Some of the best spots are up near the ski-hills,where new condos are.Those roads are often lightly travelled in the summer,and usually in much nicer shape than the county roads.
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How steep can you carve it?
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On 6/29/2004 ss
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
PSR - what kind of trucks and wheels do you use on that s camber board?
Do you have any special techniques for steep carving?
I have Original super carve trucks (spring loaded) and I like to head down a steep hill. When I start going to fast I pull a super tight turn and head up the hill and back down. Then I do it again. In other words I do complete circles, going a little further down the hill with each circle.
Did I invent something new or does everyone do this? How does everyone else carve steep hills?
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Freecarving
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On 6/18/2004 PSR
wrote in from
(68.69.nnn.nnn)
I Dunno. I consider going fast with a clean line and plenty of flow a nifty trick unto itself...Then there's always the "how Steep can you Carve it?" question(one that gets asked pretty often here in the Green Mountains),which usually seperates posers from Riders really quickly! Then there's Nelson,who gides "shoot the Duck" turns at a good clip,usually extending them into 360*+ carves,or just switching up lead-footing and/or direction to see if anyone noticed... I have a rockered S-Camber homemade birch deck that'll drift flowing slides,while I'm standing-not crouched,at speeds fast enough to overtake cars on Equinox mountain.Do nose manuals count?If so,Huck gets some credit for hanging ten down past Slalom courses on the Rt-7 Extension.I've seen him pull wheelies on past 30-cone TS courses,never wavering,and still turning! When he figures out how to do Impossibles OVER the cones and still carve on by,well...
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What's in a name?
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On 6/18/2004 VELOCEDOG
wrote in from
(172.156.nnn.nnn)
Maybe I'm taking the title too literally---but if this is "freecarving,"
shouldn't SOMEBODY be doing carve TRICKS?
........just a thought....
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every bodys doin it
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On 5/19/2004 fokke wolfe
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
when you are cruisin down a hill
pop in some pink floyd preferably DARK SIDE OF THE MOON
then listen to TIME
that makes for a good time
(watch out for cars though, they come out of nowhere when you cant hear)
Ride fast and often---
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Carve,or Slide..?
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On 5/11/2004 PSR
wrote in from
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
Chuck,before you go trying a Freeboard,Check This out! Just Copy+Paste this addy.- http://www.stik.com/demohigh.html -As I've said before,Freeboards do Sliding Turns,are not so wonderous for Carving unless the center wheels are tucked up outa the way.They're not easy to learn,either. More info is also available at Hugh R's site,which tucked in the "Links" on NCDSA.Look for his 'crosstrainer comparison'.
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freeboarding???
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On 5/11/2004 chuck
wrote in from
(69.136.nnn.nnn)
i am 13 years old and i would like to start freeboarding. i wanted to ask u guys if it is hard to get started. i skateboard and have been for like 3 years. i wanted to know if someone could make a post and tell me if it is really hard to start. peace
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