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| Buttboarding (778 Posts)
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Buttboarding Info |
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On 9/11/2003
Tommy
wrote in from
(212.185.nnn.nnn)
Mario,
I thought about it and I like the idea of upgradin the limit of buttboard wheels from 70mm to 76mm.
I dont think it makes too much of a difference speedwise but the spectrum of wheels to use would be a lot wider. cheers Tommy
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On 9/10/2003 Mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
I've been thinking, maybe it's time that buttboarding went to 76mm wheels. It made sense at one time to stick to 70mm, but now it seems like more people make suitable 76mm wheels than 70mm wheels. What have we got: Gumballs, Avillas, Turbos, Krytos, Gravity, Nineballs, etc. The price difference isn't that signficant, and the availability is better than ever. Maybe it doesn't make a difference, I wonder how much faster a Gumball is than a Flashback...
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On 8/28/2003
FL
wrote in from
(65.119.nnn.nnn)
I put a front extension [12 "] on my my 36" standup to make a 48" laydown . It's made out of 3/4" thinwall square tubing and bolted on to the front of the deck .Round tubing can also be used .A 7/8" round hand bar was also added .The hand bar was mostly added to keep my neighbor kids from getting their hands bit under the tire , but , it turned out I liked it a lot for downhillin'. Standup , laydown....FL
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On 8/27/2003
joseph
wrote in from
(211.28.nnn.nnn)
buttboarding is just lying down on your board. it does not take a special board but most prefer a proper buttboard. longboards work fine just a little uncomfortable. it's like luging only without the foot pegs and 3 trucks. If you plan on doing it get some protective gear. leathers are recomended or 2 pairs of jeans and two jackets. these things are fast. can go over 50 miles per hour.
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On 8/27/2003 skuttlebutt
wrote in from
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what exactly is buttboarding? does it take a special board?
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On 8/22/2003
Bob Ozman / IGSA
wrote in from
(67.73.nnn.nnn)
2003 IGSA World Cup USA Venue Change
The International Gravity Sports Association (IGSA) has announced that the USA World cup event scheduled for October 17-19 2003 in Bainbridge, Ohio is being moved. The event will now take place October 24-26 2003 at Barrett Junction, Ca near San Diego. According to IGSA President Marcus Rietema, “ Last week we were contacted by the Ohio event promoter F-6 Racing and told that they would be unable to organize the event due to financial difficulties. “
F-6 Racing’s Rusty Riley explained that he could assist the IGSA with organizing the event, but that they could not make the financial or time commitment to organizing the event. This left Rietema and IGSA vice president Bob Ozman with a major dilemma. Either take over the event in Ohio, move the event, or cancel the event. With the overwhelming success of the 2003 IGSA World Cup Series, canceling the event was never a legitimate option. Both Rietema and Ozman live in California so organizing a World Cup event from across the country with the short time frame, would be a very difficult task. They discussed this option at length and decided that if a suitable replacement venue could be found, they would move the event.
In the past week, four separate venues were discussed and local governments contacted regarding permits and availability. In the end, Barrett Junction, CA presented itself as the best available venue. According to Rietema, “Barrett Junction is a popular track with the riders and its proximity to an international airport, banquet facilities, campgrounds and the Mexican border town of Tecate convinced the IGSA that it would be the best option for both the IGSA and its’ competitors. With only ten weeks until the race date, the change to a California venue will allow us to present the best possible event.”
Complete event details will be available at www.gravity-sports.com the week of August 22th. The IGSA would like to apologize for any inconvenience the venue change has caused. Our hope is that F-6 Racing can return the Ohio event to the IGSA event schedule in 2004.
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On 7/25/2003 PSR
wrote in from
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
Mario,that's an interesting idea...What I did,and it's similar,was to use a Freeboard deck,and put my front truck(seriously de-wedged to level the truck out)on the nose-kick,which puts it's pivot point almost level with the board's topsheet.It's NOT a 'drop-through',but works similarly,and also puts my front axle ahead of my hips a bit for better weight distribution.Unfortunately I haven't yet had the time or money to take it up to New Hampshau and run it through The Notch.On my lesser hills,it does nicely though,able stay stable at 50 plus,being only a bit dicey at 60-ish(this with Indy 215's,not even Gulls or Randals).Meanwhile,Nelson and I are exploring setting up a Vac-press to create boards that allow further tinkering with the shapes.I hope next summer will be when I can afford to Race.It's gotta be soon,as my internal fortitude is starting to wane with age...
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On 7/11/2003 Mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
My point with the FORCE arrow is to show that the pivot point on the trucks is much lower. Certainly this will change some things for the better and some things for the worse. I think that having the pivot point closer to the ground *should* load the wheels more evenly - it's a shorter lever. Only one way to find out for sure, and that would be at the next race. I'm almost healed up, I'll definitely be ready by the next SF Gravity Fest, and hopefully a WLAC race before that.
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On 7/7/2003 duane
wrote in from
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mario, the force as you show it is not correct. the down force will be almost exactly in the same place, mg acting on the center of gravity of the rider. there will also be a centripetal force if you are turning. note that the "high roll center" diagram moves the center of mass a little toward the center of the circle, a small advantage. overall, the force diagram won't change all that much, which is why reasonable people can disagree on which is better. the bigger difference comes in when the blocks are removed in the "low" truck. more stable but railing turns becomes more difficult.
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On 7/7/2003
sean c
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
would it be possible for a side shot without wheels on it?
something similar to the pic on this page http://www.ncdsa.com/usr/ur13/randal_vs_indy.htm
sean c
(to lazy to play the link game)
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On 7/7/2003 Mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
Notice how close the kingpin is to the ground, you have to use monster wheels. Next version might change that. In this next image, check out how the low roll center (pivot) places the force closer to the axle line. Theoretically, this should make the wheels grip better, as there will be less tendency for the outside wheel to lift. Wheels should wear more evenly, too.
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On 7/7/2003 Mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
Whoops,
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On 7/7/2003 mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
Truck pic #2
http://www.freediver.net/freedivelist/photogallery/persons/korf_m/lowriders_frontright.gif
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On 7/7/2003 Mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
Truck picture (test):
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On 7/7/2003 Mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
I think foam would work for a headrest. Or a piece of wood covered with foam. If you aren't constraining yourself to the buttboard rules, I think a buttboard that was 25% bigger in all dimensions would be a lot better: 15" wide, 60" long, 85-92mm wheels, 225mm trucks....
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On 7/5/2003
joseph
wrote in from
(211.28.nnn.nnn)
alright i swapped out the cherries to 85mm kryptos so i can run the randals. anyway the cherries were only 79 mm as they were worn down. so i've added a lot of height. anyway of lowering the ride height? already flipped the hangers. only have wedges as they are necesary no additional risers.
(see previous posts by me to understand the cherry bomb problem.)
second question. i dont care that it's illegal but how would i go about making a head rest? what materials? anyone else use a luge style head rest?
i am thinking angled piece of foam just high enough to give me adequete sight. this sound right? anyway to improve it?
and just for reference i cant afford new wheels or anything else for that matter. very poor at the moment. i was going to buy 76mm red kryptos but cant afford them.
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On 7/4/2003 dagoo
wrote in from
(66.91.nnn.nnn)
hey never been here,what the heck is this site all about?True no talent needed here.just do what you did when you were 3 years old.Who is the king here? dagoo
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On 7/4/2003
sean c
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
m, i too use 70mm flashbacks (75a front, 72a rear). i'm runnin indy 215's wedged (skinny part of the wedge facing towards the front of the board. i made my own board, and the piece of wood cost me $15. it's enough to make two boards. i used 11ply 3/4" birch. bearings? well, don't get sucked into the bearing forum hype of this board. i use whatever i can find cheapest. i try not to spend more then $8-$15 per set. i then clean them out as soon as i get them, remove all the oil, grease, whatever and then use a toothpick to put the tiniest drop of oil in my bearings. if your not racing leave that stuff in and your bearings will last much longer.
sean c
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On 7/3/2003
EK
wrote in from
(204.246.nnn.nnn)
Howzit guys!!! I'm back to my orginal site.
I started focusing on the gravity bike thing ever since my ill-fated Firsco crash last year (bummers...)
Anyways I'm just about healed up... I got to race in the last West LA College event in the stock class of gravity bikes and it was great. Placed fourth but it was good rehap for my body and psychi. I am still not "well" enough to buttboard (the right leg is still not strong enough to handle the braking...) but hopefully later this year.
Mario... you are the man! I think it's pretty awesome that you are developing an innovative truck for the sport. Maybe hopefully I can order a pair to put on that board you gave me and maybe ride it in the next SAn Fran Fest coming this Sept.(no wet course!).
Hey... even if no one posts, place one anyways guys. Don't wait for them. I'm guilty as the rest. Well got to go but I will be back soon.
Keep riding!
EK
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On 7/3/2003 Mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
No prices yet, it's all labor. I think the parts are $10 or so. But it takes some minor machining and some welding. Pics will come after I get them back from the Freeboard guys.
To answer the previous post:
Trucks - R2B ("B" is for Buttboard)
Wheels - Abec11 Flashbacks 75a front, 72a rear
Bearings - Pleasure Tool Abec 7
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On 7/3/2003
m
wrote in from
(198.81.nnn.nnn)
Man,i was wondering when someone was going to post(ghost forum.)I need some advice on purchase of a reasonably priced buttboard.What is the current top choice for this disipline.Trucks,wheels,bearings?
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On 7/2/2003
sean c
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
that's too funny mario. i was just thinking the other day about when you said you were gonna make trucks. i was wondering if that ever happened. great to hear. i really can't wait to see some pictures of them. how much would u be selling them for? we aren't talkin pvd prices are we?
sean c
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On 7/2/2003
Mario
wrote in from
(148.87.nnn.nnn)
Someone has to write something here, this forum is dead!
I made some chrome-moly trucks a couple weeks ago. They aren't buttboard-legal because they aren't readily available to the common man, but I might make up a batch if I get motivated. They'd be killer buttboard trucks because they have a really low roll center, and can be made to any width. I made mine with a 12" hangar just for kicks.
Basically what I did was take a Randal design and put the axle in between the pivot and the bushing. That lowered the truck so much that I had to use 80mm+ wheels so that the kingpins wouldn't hit. Some riser pads would solve that problem, and wouldn't change the roll center, which is very close to the ground. (See Chaput's drawing in the Decks forum for an illustration of roll center.)
Other cool things I did were make hollow replaceable Cr-Mo 8mm axles and cut speedwashers onto the hangars. They fit on a Randal baseplate. I showed them to Randal recently and he had some advice, and seemed generally supportive of the idea. Dan at SF Longboarding tried them and quite liked them. They are with the Freeboard factory right now.
So how will they work for buttboarding? I think the lower roll center will make them less tippy than a conventional truck. That should also make your wheels wear more evenly. And they'll be wider than R2s, if that matters. I need to get some pics up, it will all make sense then.
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On 5/24/2003 steve
wrote in from
(64.220.nnn.nnn)
Just take off those washers that come with the trucks... you know, they aren't the bearing washers, and are much bigger than the bearing washers. I don't see what purpose they serve, and my board rides just fine without them.
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On 5/19/2003 PSR
wrote in from
(216.114.nnn.nnn)
Joseph,I'm still in favor of your looking really hard at trimming your axle hangers by 2mm-3mm on each side;However,if you're going the locktite route,don't flip the locknuts.The outer on nylock-type locknuts is nylon plastic,which has zero threading strength.worse,it interacts(as most plastics do) with Locktite badly,as in melting or chemically breaking down. So try your nuts on normally as to keep the threading metal-to-metal.Make sure you wheels are on each axle before applying locktite,and smear a little extra oil film(with a q-tip or issue) on the outer bearing race/shield to keep the locktite from bonding with the bearing.With the locktite,try using a toothpick to apply the threadlocker onto the axle's threads,but only outer two threadings.With the nut,use a q-tip to apply a very thin coat inside the nut,not touching the nylon lockring.Wipe with a tissue so to keep excess locktite away from your bearings.Tighten your nuts down carefully,slowly,without tipping(keep this as level as you can)the board much.Keep spinning your wheels for a few,to keep the locktite from latching onto the bearings as it dries.It'll dry in about 15 minutes with most formulas. Oh,and as for nuts,ask around at tool-supply or automotive shops for all-metal Aircraft Grade 5/16-24T locknuts.They have a slimmer profile than the Nylock nuts,and are far stronger,too.Since they use crimped threading,they can be reversed(if you can get the bloody thing to thread on!)and be gripping within two-three threads.Definately worth looking into those type of nuts.I'd send you some,but getting anything Metal shipped from the U.S. overseas these days takes a special note from Mr. Ashcroft and a small fortune paid to Federal Express.
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