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| Street Luge (1208 Posts)
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Street Luge Info |
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Thanks
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On 8/21/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
I think Ill start with my 75mm bigzigs... 83a lemon bigzigs should work well no? I mean they slide a tiny but with a hard carve but for luging it should be a lot of grip...
Is it really going to take that much time to tweak everything I mean I dont see myself changing much... Front truck goes between butt and mid thigh, back will be adjusted for proper weight distribution. I have a 57 degree front truck and a 45 degree back...
What sort of things will I likely tweak and how will I know if its necessary or not?
Wheelwells sounds good also... Or maybe Ill do a wide like 1/4" piece of wood with a 3/4" by like 5-6" wide plywood stringer under it... Truck mounts on stringer, feet (and shoulders in the back) rest on the 1/4" piece of wood, and that gives you like 3/4" risers...
Could probably run the big wheels with that setup, but I think, unless you guys dont think they will be good, Ill still use the 75mm bigzigs for now.... I like them a lot, just hope they grip well...
Oh and should I go with 8mm or 10mm axles?
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Wood Luge build
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On 8/21/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, instead of cutting large areas of wood away, do this instead; Build the sled, mount it up with trucks, then fit it with smaller wheels (like the 70mm Flashbacks/Grippens/ZigZags or maybe HotSpots/Avalons) to run it at first. This will let you feel out the truck placement, alignment, Ground clearance, and seating/handhold fit. These things are important to get the feel of, so expect to run the sled a few times while sorting this out.
Then, set the trucks very loose or with soft bushings and the big wheels; Don't 'ride' it, but do lean it hard both Left+Right at, say, walking speed. Note just where your wheels rub. Now, take the trucks off, and get a handheld belt sander (using the round end of the sander,,) to carve out the wheelwells just where you'll need them. This is good down thru maybe 4 plys, easy and quick, too.
If you need to go deeper than 4-5 plys of that cabinet-grade hardwood ply, then seriously consider a good wood-chiselling set to get deep enough. With a chisel, it's good practice the mark your cuts beforehand, and 'nibble' down on each cut with light blows of the hammer. Chip out the hole that's rough-cut, then use a drill-mounted rotary grindstone or (if you can find one) a round power-rasp to smooth it out.
The idea is not to have to compromise the decking strength, nor 'back-up' and dis-assemble the layers of wood (although making it in sections can make travelling easier). Anything you cut into will take away strength, and cutting wheel-wells before you've got it all together might leave you with axles where you don't really want them. Also, while getting 'low' is ideal, don't be shy about using thin risers (or wedges) between the decking and trucks. I've even used just 2 or 4 'faucet washers' to angle or slightly raise a truck on 6-wheelers to be certain all the wheels gripped evenly, or to tune the steering angles a nudge. Getting rid of wheelbite is a big concern, moreso than being at the 'optimum' lowered ride height. Watch too that your handholds don't get in the way of the wheels, nor put your hand under the sled's pan in cornering.
O.K., nuff stuff for now.
Let us know how it goes.
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Street Luge
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On 8/21/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Guys...
http://www.skateluge.com/images/strtlg02.jpg
Thats the luge I am going to make, with the back design of the luge in the back of the pick (wide tail end, not a skinny one like the front one)...
The wheels look like strikers...
So yeah 83a bigzigs ok? Good grip, and no bite?
I want a luge with crazy grip... No worries about slidin'... But I wont be pushing TO insanely.
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?
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On 8/21/2007 wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
luge or buttboard?
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Wheel sizing
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On 8/21/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Yeah the Rogers pegless is awesome but I am making a wood luge ;)...
So yeah I was going to use 83mm wheels but they are not looking like they will fit (wheel bite)... because its basically a flat skateboard deck.... Not even a little concave to give the wheels more room... One idea would be cut outs all the way threw the deck where the wheels go, and then like some plastic (clear) recessed lexon or something, so you can see the wheels and they can go slightly into the board to prevent bite...
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wheels
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On 8/21/2007 wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
centerset wheels you can get more life out of them. you can rotate.
the gumball machine was designed for 76mm wheels. my personal favorite is the rogers brothers peggless
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Correction
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On 8/20/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Meant offset not sidset...
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Trucks
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On 8/20/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
I am starting with 2 trucks.. and 75a 83mm flywheels are somewhat grippy, or would I be better off with side set 75a speedvent 85mm's... Pretty grippy!
Anyways... The gumball machine plans are not like most, just dimensions...
And I'd rather make a real simple board like the one Lott did... Its the first or second pic in his luge construction page... Its all wood with grip tape and metal angled handles.... Almost just looks like a dropped buttboard... Its peggless, simple and seems solid...
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jorden
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On 8/20/2007
wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
i would run with at least six wheels. you will understand when you start to courner at speed and need the traction... the gumball machine is a amazing board. its like a buttboard on crack.
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gumball machine
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On 8/20/2007 hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
from silverfish,
-----
here is a quality wood luge, somewhat like the one you posted the pic of.
i don't feel like doing the board code for the links and pics though. like ky boy said you must use some decent wood with real ply's. the plywood and bolts they sell at home depot and lowes are crap.
darren lotts gumball machine.
http://www.abec11.com/images/gbmachine3.jpg
here are the pronged t-nuts ky boy was talking about
http://www.allproducts.com/fastener/fu-yeh/Product-2004915143018-s.jpg
here are the plans for the gumball machine
http://www.darrenlott.com/gumballmachine/
not in the pans is the wooden spine you can see in the pictures that runs from truck to truck. you can see it in this picture
http://www.abec11.com/images/gbmachine2.jpg
good luck and be safe, and when you finish the board stand on it and bounce it like crazy to see if it will snap or crack while riding. better to break when your going no where then when you're going 50.
edit: don't forget the grade 8 bolts.
Ben: a buttboard is a flat piece of wood that can't be longer than 48" and can't be wider than 12". There can not be a drop in the board (like your subsonic has, at least if it's the subsonic i'm thinking of). drop through trucks are ok, as long as your minimum ride height is ok with whatever organization you are racing in. but if you're not racing don't sweat this kind of stuff and just have a blast on whatever is most comfortable to you.
sean c
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Gumball Machine
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On 8/19/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Cant seem to find the plans for it, anybody know where they are located at?
I am going to consider doing a 2 truck version but most likely Ill just use it as a reference for my build.
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Luge 4 Taylor
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On 8/19/2007
AJ Powell
wrote in from
Canada
(66.131.nnn.nnn)
my sponsor, STREET-MISSILE, makes lightweight sturdy and affordable streetluges here in Canada. Made in the upper Laurentian Hills of Quebec by Fast-Freddy Desjardins. His luges are probably the only available on the market for less than 400$ Canadian (brand spankin' new). You would'nt have to pay Duty Fees either. The 2007 models are made with very thin airplane aluminum and specially bent in areas to maintain a stiff pan. send me an email if your interested; alan_j_powell@hotmail.com
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where can i buy a streetluge?
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On 8/19/2007 Taylor
wrote in from
Canada
(68.145.nnn.nnn)
i am currently looking to buy a streetluge rightnow and i am wondering where i could posssibly get one. i really like the pegged rogers bros but i don't know if they still make them. does anybody know or am i out of lick. i live in calgary canada and streetluge is really just starting off here as there has been only 2 competitions here for it. anyone maybe have a used one or something
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Pegless
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On 8/18/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
I'd still like reasons why pegless is better but I have been looking at pics of riders on pegless and I think Ill go for it... For simplicity as well...
3/4" thick seat pan, calf rest (also front truck mount) and back truck mount with 1/2" risers inbetween...
Like one of these http://www.skateluge.com/images/strtlg02.jpg
Any ideas what the bumpers and handles are?
Also how should I adjust the dimensions of a board like this one to me? For example where should the cut-outs for handles be... How long should the seatpan be relative to my body...
And most important how low on my legs should the calf support go? Seems like to much gives more support but less leg movement (for braking etc...)
Thanks
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luge
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On 8/18/2007
wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
stick with the pegless. 83mm 75a-78a wheels. the safest and handles best.
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Wheels/width and drift
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On 8/18/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Is it normal to drift a luge? Do some like to just make a setup that sticks no real drift? Because thats how I think I'd like it...
Still deciding on wheels, 85mm speedvents in 75a or 79a, or 83mm fly wheels in 75a...
Any thoughts?
Flywheels are more popular but with 184mm trucks will they be wide enough? The speedvents are similar, probably more grippy even in the 79a duro (still may go 75a for the smoother ride) and are offset for more width...
If the flys width wont be a issue though Ill probably do 75a 83mm flys just because it seems to be most common, and will look sexy with my green abec 11 bushings!
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Peg/Pegless
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On 8/15/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Thanks I will take him up on his offer...
Locally a buttboard would probably be more fun where the hills are in the 40-50mph range but I plan on taking this to a run in gilroy good for 70mph, as well as some races down south...
I really want the experience and comfort of a luge...
But now I am trying to decide though, should I do it old fashion or do the pegless revolution?
If I go pegless, how much "support" should I put for my legs? With pegs its an easy answer but with pegless whats the rule of thumb for where the luge should be on my legs?
What are some of the benefits of pegless, and is it as stable and comfortable as pegged luges? Seems like it might be better, because its a nice cross between a rail design luge and a buttboard.
This is the pegless design im looking at...
http://www.skateluge.com/stluge.htm
If I went with a peg it would be something similar to this design but the front wouldnt have the leg support and would have a hollow metal boom with foot pegs... but this design looks a lot more simple...
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First Sled
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On 8/15/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, the issue with a Luge is that it prefers higher speeds, which in turn require better judgement of speed, line, braking, and a bit of good technique. A buttboard (or 'classic' luge) will be easier to get the finer points dialed in, as you can run at 25 mph and still have fun, but also roll up thru the 60's. A luge won't even be in it's 'comfort zone' until you're above 40...
Things to learn well; Braking, both 'skimming', where you keep everything from accellerating, to 'Smoking Shoes' where you're trying not thump into the haybales on the hairpin; Lean steering Vs. Angulated steering; Truck tuning and alignment; Roadway line planning (I always walk UP before riding Down!).
Things like drafting, drifting corners, and even just dealing with road surface variables like washboards are also things to note, but will come with some experience and time. Best tip, imho, is know your speed. There's no speedometer, and you're LOW, so persception of your real speed is a tough thing to get the feel of. But it's the crucial thing to know for cornering, coasting/drafting, and board set-up. Knowing the pitch you're on is helpful too, and DMV may not post those gradient signs with as much accuracy as we'd like to think (there's a "12%" grade here in Vermont that's actually around 18%, and has two truck runaway ramps within a mile of each other! Good for 75mph sprints). Ascutney, where ISGA raced this summer, was a 22% grade in spots, about 12% where Auld went off the road. It's about as steep as I like, thank you... ;-)
One other bit of wisdom, from a friend I taught many moons ago; Relax while rolloing. Being too tense can actually 'bounce' you off a sled on rougher roads (of course, level-set manhole covers on an incline will do that too!), and can make being able to 'roll' into corners tough as well. If you have worries about your speed early on, simply switch to something smaller wheel wise (Flashbacks are a very dependable, predictable wheel in 78A) until you're ready to roll faster.
So, there's no need to use a buttboard first, but I would seriously take HC up on his offer!
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E-mail Sent
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On 8/15/2007 Jordan Raice
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Sent you one that sounds cool! And a LOT of people have recommended I start buttboard but why? I mean, the only real difference is what the weight or is there more?
I have the materials and would like to experiment with luge design and make a killer luge thats fast, comfortable and fun... I dont care if its 40 pounds vs. a buttboards weight, I am up for the challenge...
I just havent seen to many reasons for a noob to start buttboard besides cost and size/weight...
I dont see a buttboard being any more safe...
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Uk Film crew filming in the Us - rider needed
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On 8/15/2007
Oj
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(87.74.nnn.nnn)
Hi,
we are filming in San francisco next week and would love to film an interview with a Luge Person - If you know anyone around that area or who might then please let me know
oj.borg@btpodshow.com
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bay area
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On 8/15/2007
hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, send me an email.
I can give you a basic luge lesson.
I think there is only a handful of guys that still luge in the bay area.
what I really recommend is for beginners to learn on buttboards
I got one you can try out...
hc in san jose
http://www.geocities.com/sk8sanjose/luge.html
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Events
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On 8/14/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Where in California (I am in the bay area) can I find good beginer luge races or preferably just events with good safe roads and people to help with the learning process?
Also any tips on helmets? I have a specialized deviant but hear it sucks for visiblity, whats a good DOT helmet with a built in shield that has good visibility (and price)
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Update on Trucks
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On 8/11/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Done... Finalized my truck choice... Instead of two 57 bears and flipping the back I am getting one 57 and one 45 degree... both with 10mm axles...
Speedvents seem to still be the only wheel choice just need to decide on 75a, 79a or some sort of combo...
So yeah I have decided on the trucks, just would like some hints on wheel choice, either specific wheels or better yet what to look for (duro, grip, size etc...)
Well in the morning I am off to yosemite for a 3 day trip!
Hope to have some nice info when I get back...
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Wheels and Trucks
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On 8/11/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Well the crails are "sold"... Just need to pick a new truck for the luge. I have been talked out of conventional trucks, back to reverse kingpin. Obvisouly there is R2s but I am thinking now that bear grizzlys might be awesome. 57 degree baseplate is pretty perfect for luge isnt it! And if I flip the hanger its about 47, so I could flip the back for stabiliy and also for more lean (to insure the wheels dont lift up)... That with some hard khiro barrels or my jimz shaped bushings (if they are hard enough) would be good, no?
Just need to pick wheels... Sounds like offset is the way to go to make it wider... Maybe 85mm speedvents and 10mm axles on the trucks to prevent axle bending...
Dont know of any other offset wheels in this size range...
So 184mm trucks and offset wheels is wide enough for luge right? Seems like many use the randal luge trucks which are 205mm.
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trucks
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On 8/11/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Ya thats what I am thinking they may not be wide enough...
And I have some offset bigzigs but I want new wheels for the luge and 83mm flys seem like the way to go (75a).
So I am looking at indy 215's but I just heard they are only 184mm...
So are tracker 219's good for recreational luges?
I am having some bushings made, hope they may be useful in the luge...?
They are jimz bottom shapes (So the tops will also be jimz bottom shapes)... I am having two 84a and two 88a made, ABEC-11 thane. I was thinking either the 88's in back and 84s in front, or 88a bottoms and 84a tops...
They are real soft but jimz come in 80-85a which you recommended, these would be a combo of 88 and 84, the higher spectrum of jimz and then some.
So yeah if anybody is interested in trades I have red crails with 3" grade 8 kingpins, flat washers, new speedr rings... I also have some used but good condition 80a 81mm bombhills which are very slidable. Last some old swiss bones but Ill clean them... Those will be traded w/ the wheels.
Anybody interested?
Sounds like in return I'd like tracker 219's and/or 75a 83mm fly's... New or used, just in good condition with straight axles please!
So ya I hope the 219's will be stable, mentally it seems like they wont be because I have skated some independt conventional style trucks and got wob's way quicker then with R2's, but with the huge width and stiff bushings I hope it will work out... Plus it will lean less then a R2 or crail, correct? because of the higher hanger angle...
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