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| Street Luge (1208 Posts)
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Street Luge Info |
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On 10/14/2001
Chris
wrote in from
(63.36.nnn.nnn)
Seattle area rookie looking for help!
Hello everyone, I am an old school buttboarder looking to try out luging. Any advice given is greatly appreciated. What should I look for in a beginners luge? I'm not interested in racing to begin with, just having fun. Any used luges for sale? I don't want to spend a lot until I get some experience. Anybody around Seattle willing to let me try their luge?
Thanks, Chris
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On 10/12/2001
Leo
wrote in from
(146.18.nnn.nnn)
ok, i think i would start with a wood luge until i find a goood aluminum handcrafter in here (venezuela)...
if no i think that my x-mas present would be a roger bors luge, do they have a webpage?
i know they are sold at some online stores (lllv, subterfuge, researchgravitysport.com)but wanted to check them direcly and last, who sells good used luges?
Leo
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On 10/12/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Stiff. With a wheelbase that long it's too easy to bottom out (scrape the underside) otherwise.
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On 10/12/2001
Leo
wrote in from
(146.18.nnn.nnn)
Thanx Bob and Chris, i am staring to understand a few things.
another question, does the luge have to be very flexy or very stiff?
i dont want to build or buy a luge that will hit the bottom on every turn(or this is supposed to happen?)
btw i am 165lbs
Leo
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On 10/11/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Two schools of thought.
1. Distribute the weight over 6 wheels instead of 4.
2. Have the frontmost trucks "dangle" the wheels a fraction of an inch off of the ground so that you are riding on 4 wheels in the straights but on 6 wheels in the turns when you need the extra traction most.
In either case you can get more traction in the turns, especially if you set them up so that they don't "fight" with one another. The frontmost truck has to turn a little more than the one just behind it. Most guys shim the bushings with a thick washer rather than wedge the truck.
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On 10/11/2001 bob swartz
wrote in from
(132.250.nnn.nnn)
Trucks and rubber!!!
If you are just starting out and do not buddy with someone alerady using double trucks, dont bother. They are a pain in the ass to setup perfectly and give you more to worry about. Just leave room in luge design to add a truck behind the single front truck. When you go to a race ask the pro's for tips on using the double setup. One more tip, if you are less than 170lbs you are most likey wasting your time with a double truck setup.
Rubber.... Dont use sticky Rubber for brakes. been tried by many. Do not use racing slicks they will just grab the road and put your feet behind your ass in a split second. You do need some slide. The motorcycle tire I use are right at the max sticky limit I would use.
bob
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On 10/11/2001 shnitzel
wrote in from
(65.94.nnn.nnn)
i recently picked up some worn out super sticky cart slicks... going to stick-em on a set of shoes and see how they do. probably wont have a review 'till the snow melts though..... powdies, rollies, groomies and wings soon to come!
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On 10/11/2001
Leo
wrote in from
(146.18.nnn.nnn)
Thanx to all who answered, i really want to get into luging, i havent seen or ride one, i am trying to build my own and was having doubts about the trucks, i´ll think that i´ll go with the 60° ones..
another question, can u clever minds explain to me the reason to use double trucks up front, and how to use this setup?
Thanx again..
leo
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On 10/10/2001
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Part II... HR
"I forgot to mention that both the shoe sole and
the tire tread must be
scratched, painted with thinner, and then have
contact cement apllied.
Doing only one side would never work.
Additionally wait until the glue
is dry before bonding the surfaces and then
reactivate the glue by
heating it with a hairdryer. It wouldn't hurt to
get a repair last and a
stand but these aren't neccesary although the
cost of used shoe repair
equipment is minimal these days. I would also
advise you to go ahead and
spend the bucks to use new shoes when you are
building your luge shoes.
Old shoe are worn out in ways that just can't be
compensated for."
Now you all know why I love the net! Information just flows and flows!
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On 10/10/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
I use two 60 degree Randal Luge Trucks up front and one on the back of my Rogers Bros luge. The long wheelbase and low CG of a luge make them plenty stable at 70+mph. After a certain point, the increase of steering angle in a truck becomes ineffective because the kingpin doesn't have the necessary leverage to turn the hanger sharply. I ride my luges, buttboards and speedboards really loose and never have any probs with wobs.
I use the 35 degree baseplates on speedboards and 50 degree baseplates on buttboards.
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On 10/10/2001
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
I just received this e-mail concerning luge shoe construction:
"I am an experienced custom shoemaker. Let me give
you a few hints on how
you can improve on your luge shoes. Instead of
Shoe Goo use Barge
cement. This contact cement is the standard for
any shoe repair shop and
it will cut your drying time to under 20 minutes.
After you have sanded
the surfaces to be bonded take a shoe scratcher
(the cost is about 10
bucks and you can find it at any shoe findings
store) and rough up both
surfaces to be bonded. Take a can of Barge
thinner and wipe down the
surface you are about to glue. This will slightly
burn the rubber and
allow for greater bondinng with the contact
cement. As the thinner
starts to evaporate brush on your glue being
carefull not to lay it on
too thick. When the glue dries stick the sole and
the shoe together
together and pound them with a plastic hammer.
Then take an ace bandage
and wrap them up leaving them to complete the
bonding process in 20
minutes. Take the shoes and use a grinder to
make the edges smooth."
I'm going to give it a try! HR
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On 10/10/2001
Bob Swartz
wrote in from
(207.199.nnn.nnn)
Rubber and trucks!!!
For a brakes I have been using rubber from used rear tire from motorcycles. The big fat ones used on crotch rockets. THis rubber is real sticky, does not have the pain in the butt steel belts, smokes like a chimney for a cool effect, cuts to shape with a simple "BOX KNIFE", and is free for the asking at any motorcycle dealer.
THe trick to making it stick to your shoe is to clean and scratch or score both surfaces to be glued, use plenty of shoe goo and clamp or press the new brake for sevral hours. YOu can trim it to a nice finish with a knife and smooth it with a grinder.
Randal Trucks.- HE does offer many configurations. A dream for the person that wants to tinker with setups. I have tried them all and I am now running a configuration with 2 or 3(double front)60 degree base plates. I used to run 50's but as stated in the previous posting. I could not get enough turn at Providence or in Capetown. As far as the instability goes you make up for it by tightening the trucks and or changing bushings.They seem to run fine in the mid 80's for me. YOu can also flip the hanger to remove a bit of steer if you like. Lots depend on your style of ride and geometry of your luge. So far 60's are used the most successful on most all Roger's Bothers Luges. but then again you have not seen me on the grand podium as of yet... so your choice..
bob
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On 10/10/2001 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Leo,what you note at Randal is the understanding that varied turn radiuses are needed to ride on different hills.If you go for 'stability' and show up at R.I.,you'll eat hay.Conversely,try running a 'turny' truck off of Mt. Hood in Oregon,and the wobs will get you.What you pick for angles on your setup is up to you,but know that your simplified basis for picking Luge Trucks is fairly correct.Your problem now is finding the geometry that works under your butt,on the hills you ride. An aside note: I've found that Randal's 50* R-2 dosen't wobble IF you pay attention to the bushings used,but it remains 'twitchy' even with stiff bushings. The 28* R-1 is too mellow and laid back for good turns,but works at the rear of a sled nicely.So that leaves 35* and 40* as your baseplates for turning without wobbles...
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On 10/10/2001
hc
wrote in from
(207.212.nnn.nnn)
where can I get rubber for my shoes?
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On 10/8/2001
RWR
wrote in from
(24.4.nnn.nnn)
ITS TIME TO CROWN A CHAMPION IN BAINBRIDGE!!!! If you have not sent your entry form in yet. Do not send it now. Wait until you get to the race. We are leaving on Thursday to get every thing set up. We have had a very good turn out so far. This is sure to be a great race. We will have registration and tech open on Friday evening from 4-8 then again on Saturday morning at 7 am. Don't forget to bring cash if you are paying at the race. We will see you in OHIO.
P.S. Just received word that Ninja bearings will be there with podium prizes to add to the cash purse.
Rusty Riley F-6 Racing
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On 10/5/2001
Leo
wrote in from
(146.18.nnn.nnn)
i have read and seen i randals webpage that they come in various angles , they are even at 60°, i thought that the more angle they are, the more turny behave, also i thought that luges needed stabiltiy not turniness...
any clever mind to clarify me this?
leo
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On 10/3/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Rusty, I hope you understand that I really enjoyed the event and the hill last year but have a slalom race commitment at Donner on the same weekend. After the DC Downhill and Maryland events last month, I went to Colorado last week and I'm going to Ney York this week. Some west coast guys really do try and make events outside of California.
For anyone who couldn't make it to Ohio last year, IT IS DEFINITELY WORTH THE TRIP!
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On 10/1/2001
RWR
wrote in from
(24.4.nnn.nnn)
The number of entries for the Ohio race is looking good, there is only one thing that concerns me... In the past there has been alot of complaining on the message boards and at the races that the only events are on the west coast.. I believe there is good reason for that. As of today, about 80% of the entries recieved for the Ohio Grand Prix come from the west coast. Whats up with the rest of the country and Canada. The west coast guys not only hold races in thier part of the country but they support a race on the other side. If we are to grow as a sport and make this next race season a success(with regional events everywhere) then you are going to have to step up on the central and east side of the USA.
The Ohio race is sanctioned by the IGSA, it is a National Event, for National Points in the IGSA world ranking system. The Ohio race is the last event this year besides the Barrett race. The town of Bainbridge is excited about holding this event. Every thing is scheduled, on track and happening. I recieve emails every day or so about rumors concerning the event. The only rumor that is true is that this is going to be a great weekend. It is an opportunity for central and east coast lugers to get to show the rest of the gravity family that they are here to stay.
The entry fee deadline is October 5th. You can register at the event but it will cost another $25 for late entry. If you have any questions concerning the event contact me.
Rusty Riley F-6 Racing
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On 9/29/2001
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Dregs vs Rogers luges:
From looking at well used that some of the guys were riding at Barrett, I was able to see one big difference between the two.
The Dregs boards suffered from more torsional flex than the well used Rogers brothers. The aluminum was suffering from fatigue at several points both front and back. Not that the Dregs is a bad luge, just seems like the Rogers are holding up better...
I ride a subterfuge built by Tim Cayer and am very happy with how it's holding up too... HR
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On 9/29/2001
bebop
wrote in from
(199.183.nnn.nnn)
thanks , for the input , its important . my luge has already passed tech at 2 barrets , so i think it could pass edi's tech . ive been but boarding since as long as i can remember and and know the importence of the right wheels and berings. since i built my luge , danny conners , and a few others luges , theyve worked all fine and get u to the bottem fine , but i just cant' help thinking its the board , i still dont know is there any plus's over the dregs vs rogers luge.
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On 9/28/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Not all luges were created equally but wheels will make the biggest difference in speed, provided that the luge's stability at speed and steering is dialed in. Consider having 4, 6 or even 8 wheels on a luge. Some of this is "art", but some is definitely "science".
The Rogers Bros luges are currently winning more races than anything else out there right now, but much of that has to do with the fact that many of the best riders in the world are using them. Mine is one of the newer ones that comes apart and can be tucked away into a travel case. I slammed down on the asphalt 12 times in the Red Bull Streets of San Francisco Big Air competition (including an 86.5' launch) and the luge came out in one piece. I did manage to bend the axles on 11 hangers though!
Another nice thing about them is that they stack nicely and when a half dozen guys all have the same sled, you can swap boards on some runs and see how the other guy's wheels and trucks are working. The Rogers Bros, Dave Auld, Brent De Keyser, Pam Zoolalian and others frequently practice together and the R&D is always helping to improve the quality of the product. Look for a "hybrid" pegless luge from them in the near future. Many riders are starting to like the feel of shorter more managable "body boards" as opposed to the long "luge cars". Also, get a buttboard. They rock. Excellent practice and more time on the hill at races.
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On 9/28/2001 PSR
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Bebop,Duane is spot-on in his advice.Put your money into Wheels,Bearings,Bushings,Speedwashers,Good trucks,Leathers/Safety Gear. If your sled dosen't pass Tech,or you're really unhappy with it,then get a new sled. From what I've seen,the Roger's Brothers sleds are really,really good.But then again I'm biased there,as I built that style of sled a few years ahead of them,and I know it works well.Flat-pan Aluminium sleds don't compare,and having the frame surround your tush is much more reassurring when you get close to the haybales!
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On 9/28/2001 PSR
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Please ignore my post here from 9/27; the post it replied to was pulled,thus leaving my acid wit to hang alone on the vine,withering...
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On 9/28/2001 Duane
wrote in from
(65.201.nnn.nnn)
bebop, why not spend small bucks on new wheels rather than big bucks on a new sled ? Provided the luge will pass tech inspection, it won't make a big speed difference, wheels are much more important for speed, and good trucks to get you around the corners. I read about the speed record outing that went down a few years ago (when Hardwick set the official speedboarding record) the luges couldn't beat a buttboard, a $10 sheet of plywood.
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On 9/27/2001
bebop
wrote in from
(199.35.nnn.nnn)
are the rogers bros luges worth it , i mean biker is riding one , not like he matters much to me , but i mean u know i like my homemade but... i just dont know i plan on w/ the right equipment busting on to the edi season but i want the right board .should i go after dreggs or rogers or maybe just stick w/ the one i got ?
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