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| Misc Equipment (2108 Posts)
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Plasti-dip
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On 2/12/2002
Scabs
wrote in from
(66.21.nnn.nnn)
Can't hoyt right?
BoBo, I`d be careful about that. Let`s look at the Turner and then the product....
Turners are foam boards with fiberglass and gelcoat. ALL of which is porous.
The plastic dip is a soft product that hardens? I`ve got a feeling the hardening process is a matter of a solvent evaporating (or wicking).
Read the label and check with Howard before you do it. I`d hate to see your Turner sag like a flaccid "----".
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Plasti - Dip
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On 2/11/2002 BoBo
wrote in from
(151.196.nnn.nnn)
I think if I give it several dips I can get it to get fairly thick. I say this because my neihboor used some on his tools and it worked well. It was very thick as I recall. Perhaps letting it sit out over night will cause it to thicken a bit. Either way I'm trying it. Can't hoyt right?
B
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Plastic Dip
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On 2/11/2002
kmg
wrote in from
(172.153.nnn.nnn)
Bobo,
I tried the Plastic-Dip on my old Turner. Too thin, not real rubbery, doesn't work to protect the deck very well. Looks good though, if that's worth anything.
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Bumpers for slalom decks
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On 2/11/2002
BoBo
wrote in from
(151.196.nnn.nnn)
I'm gonna shoot this around the room and see if it gets shot down or not.
You guys know that stuff the is liquid and you dip you tool handles in it to make a rubber handle?
I know you guys know what I'm talking about. I'm thinking of trying some for a nose bumper on my Turners. A couple of dips and that should be it. I think it comes in red and black too.
Since glass is tough I figure it won't attack it.
Always thinkin.
BoBo
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Nylon
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On 2/11/2002 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Nylon 6 is out of place on that chart. Its so similar to 6,6 nylon that there shouldn't be a difference
Melting points: UHMW 260F, PVC (softens) 180F, polypropylene 330F, nylon 6 420F, nylon 6,6 455F
A lubricated 6,6 nylon could work very well, its common.
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tougher hot sliders
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On 2/11/2002
roger
wrote in from
(24.205.nnn.nnn)
Duane, thanks for the link, good info! I am sure that what I have is UHMW, but I am not sure what "Taber Abrasion" is, or for temperature ranges their data is valid.
For example, it shows PVC as having better abrasion resistance than Nylon 6 (17.8 vs.20.8). But PVC gets warm and soft very quickly turning into a sticky stinking road marker, 1/2" plate gone in one run. No way is it any where near as tough as Nylon. These numbers just do not appear to reflect our application well at all.
Heat plays a big role! I have to wonder what the specs would be like if testing methods included temperatures of 200 and 300 degrees. Thermal properties explain why PVC sucks so badly for sliding gloves. It also give me some hope because Polycarbonate as better thermal properties (continuous, melting, etc) than UHMW. This is important to me because some of my UHMW plates show signs of melting around it's trailing edges.
For people that only slightly use their sliders and really do not wear them down much, UHMW is very likely THE best material to use - if they are lasting then nothing to worry about. But for riders use them a lot, heating them up and wearing them out, I suspect other materials might be better. I'm going to have to get a polycarbonate plate and do some testing.
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Better slider
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On 2/11/2002 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Good luck Roger, you'll need it. Check this data on abrasion resistance:
http://www.tstar.com/Materials/materialassistance/abrasiondata.asp?Menu=Engineering
Formula 1 cars have UHMW on the skid plates because it is the best material, period, at any price. Make sure what you have is really UHMW, regular HDPE is not nearly as good (see chart), many cutting boards are regular HDPE, and even sheet stock is sold mis-identified.
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tougher sliders
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On 2/10/2002
roger
wrote in from
(24.205.nnn.nnn)
There really is nothing sacred about UHMW and am really starting to think it is not the best material for sliders - it just wears out too fast. I can go through a 1/2" plate in a couple of days with a rough road (I can put a lot of weight on my healside slider). UHMW lasts most people for a long time, using their sliders occasionally and only with slight pressure. But if you use it as a 5th wheel, it does not last long at all.
I have to wonder if nylon, hard urethane, or abrasion-resistant polycarbonate would be much more durable than the relatively soft UHMW.
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Perspex
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On 2/10/2002 Duane
wrote in from
(63.38.nnn.nnn)
Perspex (acrylic, polymethylmethacrylate, PMMA, plexiglas, same thing) has pretty poor impact strength, particularly when scratched or cut with rough edges. This material would have the potential to shatter and shard in a fall. Mike you should re-consider the use of this material. Similar in feel but much tougher is polycarbonate (lexan), should glue and form equally well.
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soloman
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On 2/10/2002 Mojo
wrote in from
(4.23.nnn.nnn)
soloman makes an inline had protecter called the slider.It was apparently made for wrist protection.It has a gel pad
and only covers the impact area of your hand.great for sliding ,doesn't protect you wrist.Around $15.
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slide glove materiaLS
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On 2/10/2002 mikez
wrote in from
(196.2.nnn.nnn)
The whole of last year I would make new sliders and then immidiatly lose them I went through a variety of things to use for sliding gloves from 500ml coke boottles to gravel and resins, the best of them all was perspex(the stuff that they make number plates out of (in South Africa at least)
It is twice as slippery as that white stuff that chaput and them use and when you jam at has hard as you can it starts to melt and you can brake late in a corner if you've stuffed up on braking, not only that it also sticks very solidly with most glues(I genereally use contact glue)
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new/old board
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On 2/9/2002
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
I just viewed a video tape of several types of boards that have a truck set up similar to the bmw. These ones were geared for off road (wider stance and big wheels) and for sail propelled (longer deck on this paticular model).
The off road set up was very cool and looked like a blast to ride. Of course, these are coming from Germany. The steering was similar to the bmw, but these also have suspension! The boards have what looks like 4 or 5 inches of travel!
I will try to get some of the tape on to a cd-rom... if your interested, shoot me an e... HR
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2 ways to glue uhmw
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On 2/7/2002 Duane
wrote in from
(63.48.nnn.nnn)
the 2 ways this cat is skinned: the uhmw is "plasma treated" to impart oxidation on the surface molecules, hydroxyl groups mostly, which are polar and can be bonded conventionally. The other is that when the uhmw is formed, a layer of functionalized polyethylene, which contains polar side groups, is extruded onto the surface. This layer can then be glued similarly. niether of these can be done at home, but I bet that's how the McMaster stuff is made, probably works very well, I'm gonna try it, (the velcro is beginning to fall off my sliders anyway).
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slider gloves
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On 2/7/2002 Scabs
wrote in from
(66.20.nnn.nnn)
Has anuone tried that green 12" PVC pipe (3/4" thick) material for a slider glove/wrist guard doo-hickey? Not only can it be cut to fit yer wrist and forearm, but additional pieces can be glued on with PVC cement (to form the slider glove part) and velcro straps would be a breeze to add.
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fiberbacked UHMW
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On 2/7/2002 Herbn
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
In the first place i ever bought plastic from ,i saw a sample of UHMW that had fiberglass pressed into the back of it,i guess at elevated heat with a bunch of pressure,you could then bond the glass,the uhmw was about .25 thick. Bonding is a chemical reaction like epoxy on wood and glass,seperating the two bonded parts involves some destruction, Silicon on glass for instance is sort of a suction a vacuum adhesion,static not really that much of a bond,would you say that the waxpaper on a sticker is bonded? it's sort of stuck on there and sometimes with out that split in the paper it's tough to remove,but not bonded.Silicon bonds glass well because things are smooth and rigid,on a flexible item like a glove, silicon or shoegoo ,won't work very long.UHMW is a plastic whose primary purpose was to be an inert(non reactive) surface in the food and chemical industry a glue that reacts with uhmw is probabely stuck in a jar somewhere with lid glued shut:)
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Rubber / PE
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On 2/7/2002 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Good call roger ! I'm going to have to try that stuff, I've wanted to make formed slide gloves for awhile now (incorporating a wrist brace feature with the slide palm), but gluing was the hang-up, and bottom sheets for snowboard (factory made with epoxy-compatible on one side) are too thin. I hate the call I have to make...do I put on my wrist braces, or slide gloves, each time I skate.
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HDPE/UHMW Glue
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On 2/6/2002
roger
wrote in from
(24.205.nnn.nnn)
I was told by a plastics house that a specialized UHMW adhesive does exist and that they could get it. But the manufacture would have to make a custom batch, 55 gallon drum minimum, plus setup costs, yadda yadda
However, McMaster-Carr has "rubber-backed" UHMW that is compatible with adhesives and epoxy.
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Skateboard lugger
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On 2/6/2002 h0dad
wrote in from
(202.37.nnn.nnn)
Hizzout, h0dad's got a bit of bogeyboard bungee with hooks, to loop each
end around truck and form a carry-strap.
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PVC
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On 2/6/2002 Herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
Actually UHMW, and HDPE don't actually glue,put relayering with PVC using PVC weld(putty)would be cool.
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Skateboard backpacks
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On 2/6/2002
Hizzout
wrote in from
(65.215.nnn.nnn)
Anyone else out there using a shortboard backpack to schlepp their longboards around? I'm looking for an easier way, but trying to stay away from the duffel type bag. Any suggestions?
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Eloura glove
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On 2/6/2002 GolgothDeLaMuerte
wrote in from
(194.167.nnn.nnn)
I agree with Dom, the textile part of the glove (the velcro part actually )
get quickly damage not because of scratching/unscratching the glove but because of
sliding on roads (that's the purpose). Anyway I think it's a good product and you can use the PVC
pads to glue anything you like in order to get your glove more resistant
I hope I made myself 'quite' clear because of my poor english too
See you in Paris, no waves, no powder, no sun but asphalt and grlzzZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ ;)
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eloura
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On 2/4/2002
dom
wrote in from
(80.12.nnn.nnn)
those glove where designed (I think) with the help of Supaflex skateboards (very good skates).
I own 3 pairs of thoses gloves and like them a lot
they are comfortable and the pads are very resistant.
But nothing is perfect and they still need R&D at Eloura, because the pads are not large enough and the textile is rapidly damaged after several slide session.
ps: exuse my poor English.
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Sliding plastics
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On 2/2/2002 Duane
wrote in from
(63.48.nnn.nnn)
Just in case you wondered, UHMW PE is 10 times more abrasion wear resistant than PVC. Source? cutting boards with routed edges (not with molding line), or a plastic supply house where you may have to buy too much
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Those gloves
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On 2/2/2002 Herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i think i can review them from there technical specs alone,no need to actually try them:)PVC plastic should slide fairly well, not as good as uhmwpe(highest grade polyethelene) or hdpe(cutting board)on smooth pavement,maybe a little better on rough,BECAUSE the pvc will wear very quickly and develope that very crumbly rough edge, think original Z rails/copers compared to real powell gorilla rails,and tracker copers.Under serious sliding you probabely won't find out if the stitching holds up,stick with homemades,figure out a source for UHMWpolyethelene,and learn how to make them right,my gloves are totally burly looking,laced on and shoegooed,not a smooth product, but they are absolutely reliable, at any speed.
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