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| Misc Equipment (2108 Posts)
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shoes
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On 3/30/2002
Tony Healy
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
To my surprise, I tried riding a speedboard in a parking garage with luge shoes and it seemed OK. The speedboard had drop thru trucks, so maybe it would've felt even better with regular sneakers. The shoes were AXO Dually sneakers with rubber glued on the ground down soles.
Lower should work better, but the luge shoes fit snug as I got em a half size smaller than usual (not overly tight tho). That probably means better control, which may be why they felt OK.
The thing I've found that seems to make more of a difference than height is sole softness. My old slip-on Nike things have an air bubble in the heel and fairly soft foam. Plus the heel is sorta running shaped (trapezoidal), so it mushes if you roll it to the side. They're not skate sneakers, but I wear them lots and hop on a board to run errands. A LandYachtz DH with Indy166's is definitely harder for me to ride with them because of the mushiness in the shoes compared with skate specific shoes.
Skate shoes are heavier, have harder, flatter soles, and more protection compared to other sneakers. I'm not kick flipping or anything, so not using the little pads built into the uppers. But do find that I have better control on a longboard with them (flat sole with less mush). Flat soles make it nicer to footbrake too.
Had a business meeting a while back and skated to our flat after parking my car. Was wearing loafers, with raised heels, and carrying a laptop bag. Made riding the Landy DH more exciting. So shoes without a flat bottom that don't fit real snug or give a lotta support aren't good candidates for skating attire.
Is it worth the extra cost to get skate shoes? If they fit your feet snugly so you have better control, and give better protection, then maybe. If you can get that from non-brand skate-like shoes, that works too. If you're getting a brand name product, then you are paying a premium for the brand name.
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Shoe choice = lower/higher CG
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On 3/30/2002
Lansing
wrote in from
(24.218.nnn.nnn)
I know a couple of years ago there was a lengthy discussion about shoes, but it was mostly about *braking* with shoes, how to extend the life of the soles, and whether it's worth blowing $ on Vans or other name-brand skate shoes vs. cheapo Payless knockoffs or Converse.
But I've been thinking about something else: shoe height.
It's funny that some people will go to all sorts of lengths to lower the center of gravity of their boards (drop-through trucks, deep wheel cutouts so you don't need risers, etc.), but I wonder if they consider the thickness of their shoes? I mean, I've read all sorts of posts discussing how Randal or whoever could shave off 1/16" here or 1/8" there of the height, but by just using shoes with thinner soles you automatically get a lower CG, right? (yes, yes, I know it's not the same thing)
After many, many years of skating cheapo shoes, I just bought my first pair of Vans since my OG Vans hightops in 1978. Yes, they are very comfy (and stylin'). But the first thing I noticed when I hopped on my board was that I felt like I was riding on stilts compared to my Converse & Payless cheapos which I usually wear! Sure enough, a quick comparison revealed that with the thicker sole and insole, the Vans add at least a full 1/4" to 3/8" to the distance between my actual foot and the top of the deck! This is very annoying.
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Leathers
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On 3/22/2002 Andy
wrote in from
(65.129.nnn.nnn)
Thanks everyone. I am going to try all these things and then pick the best one. It is gonna be nice to have some protection on my body!!
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leathers for andy
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On 3/22/2002
hugh r
wrote in from
(64.8.nnn.nnn)
Andy,
Contact Alex Tesler at the e-mail address below... he sells new leathers in most of the large sizes... very decent prices... usually in the 3 to 4 bills range, sometimes less... I am your height and weigh 240... he had a set that fit me just fine...
talexx@leatherparadise.com
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Re: Leathers
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On 3/22/2002 Dave
wrote in from
(205.143.nnn.nnn)
You could buy those leathers and have a leather seamstress extend them, you could probably have it done for $50.00 or less complete with zippers and everything. That would still be cheaper than buying a $800.00 pair, If you do get em, have her "V" the neck a little, it chokes you when riding Luge style.
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leathers
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On 3/22/2002
Tony Healy
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
Check with Helimot motorcycle accessories in San Jose, California (http://helimot.com/). They do custom leathers, carry stock suits, and have used stuff too. Web site is new, so not much there yet, but they have a "contact us" page.
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Leathers
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On 3/22/2002
Andy
wrote in from
(206.210.nnn.nnn)
Hi,
Does anyone have any idea where I can get some leathers that will fit a 6'3" person (me)?
I looked at that bargain leather place that was on somebody's luge site, but they told me the leathers would be 2 inches short.
Any Ideas?
Thanks. Andy
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slide gloves
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On 3/20/2002 Noah
wrote in from
(68.37.nnn.nnn)
A staple gun also works for the "puck" side.
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Nuts & bolts
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On 3/20/2002 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Adam, the nut you are referring to is the kingpin nut. It is a half-thickness (jam nut thickness) nylock 3/8-24 UNF nut, to be specific. The washer below it is called a cap washer usually. If you have trashed the nut and washer your bushings (the rubber disks) are probably not much better. Buy a new set (one set per truck) of Indy bushings, they are good, and come with the new washers you need. The nut is separate but any skate shop or online vendor will have them, every truck type uses the same size. Indy red bushings are softest, orange are medium, black are hard.
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slide gloves
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On 3/19/2002
kanufi
wrote in from
(144.134.nnn.nnn)
A little trick to keep the velcro on the puck is glue it with any of the glues mentioned below and then just back it up with some screws.Just screw staight through the velcro and let the screws hang out of the puck,you can grind off the sharp bits.This works well and you get better lasting pucks because of the screws grinding away with the plastic.Also sparks come out at night ,way cool.
Cheers Kanufi.
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Nuts
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On 3/19/2002
ADAM
wrote in from
(66.54.nnn.nnn)
Excuse my lack of corrrect terminology. What is the nut that keeps the axle in place, and the half-shell piece that goes b/w it and the rubber knob below it? Also where can I find a new one online? Are there diff sizes and how do I know what size to buy? Thanks in advance for the help.
Happy Riding!
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gloves
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On 3/19/2002 Tony Healy
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
Hi David, actually am wearing two sets of gloves: old motoX full-finger gloves underneath and the half-fingered sliding gloves over them. Did a few slow two-handed toeside slides on the LY DH in front of the house. Gloves seem to work ok (i.e. they didn't fall apart yet) but man are they LOUD.
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sliding gloves
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On 3/19/2002
david
wrote in from
(216.244.nnn.nnn)
tony, when making sliding gloves, always use full-fingered gloves! espically if you are going to be sliding on your RIV. i had some half-finger gloves and messed up trying to slide, now i have a nice little scar on the middle joint of my middle finger from where the road ate my skin.
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Sliding Gloves (continued)
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On 3/19/2002
Tony Healy
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
Thanks all for the info. Observations so far:
A thick layer of shoe goo didn't stick well to the sanded cutting board puck. Probably cuz no air was getting in there to cure it. Stuck alright to it around the edges tho.
Being lazy, next tried some "2 Ton" two part epoxy I had lying around here forever. This bonded pretty well to the sliding puck.
Work gloves, which already have a roughened surface, might bond OK to shoe goo. Smooth gloves with a shiny surface didn't (Lazy Leggs inline skate wrist guard gloves). Same with epoxy, tho the epoxy cured better and stuck to the gloves better. Still, not confidence inspiring.
Continuing to be lazy, remembered after reading HC's post about contact adhesive that I had 3M "fast tack" adhesive for sew up bike tires. [OK for riding at the track without brakes, as the rims don't heat up.] Despite not gluing up a tire in years, the adhesive was still good. Put a layer on the pucks and the gloves. Waited five minutes and put them together.
At first this looked like another dismal failure. But after half prying the pucks off, there were lots of sticky tendrils between the puck and the glove. Blew some air in there and waited about 5 seconds. Pressed the puck back onto the glove. Pried it part way off again, but this time it was tougher to do, and there were more tendrils of glue between the two surfaces. Blew some more air in, waited a few secs, and pressed the puck onto the glove. Stuck pretty well.
Prying the puck off and blowing air between the puck and glove was making the glue tacky (i.e. rapid curing, and getting rid of offgassed solvent). In theory, most of the pressure on the puck will a horizontal shearing force across the surface, rather than a vertical prying force trying to pull the puck off the glove. Think that's why you can get away with using a weaker, non-permanent contact adhesive. Weak vertical bond, but should hold well horizontally as there's a fairly large surface area bonded to the glove. Will find out this afternoon if I get a chance to try them out. [The glue seems to be setting up even more.]
A shiny glove won't breath enough IMHO for the glue to cure, except around the edges. So looks like the key is to have bondable surface (rough puck; rough glove) and ensure that air can eventually get to all the adhesive (shoe goo, epoxy, whatever). Or use a contact adhesive which becomes tacky very quickly.
Why not just use Velcro? Wanted to try the gluing route first. Saw someone in a speed race at Donner have the slide puck come off their glove at around 40 mph. They didn't crash, but don't think they did that on purpose either. Maybe the alternative was having their hand twisted at 40 mph tho, so losing a puck may have been ok. Still, for sliding at lower speeds suspect any adhesives mentioned here and in other posts would work ok (some more permanently than others).
If I ever get a digital camera, will put some pics here or elsewhere. The XL half-fingered gloves actually look pretty nice with the pucks on. The wrist gauntlet with wrap around strap gives some support, but more importantly some protection. Was able to get some old motocross gloves to fit inside. One feature of this setup is when the inner glove fingertips wear out, you just stick another pair of gloves inside.
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sticky velcro
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On 3/19/2002 hc
wrote in from
(65.184.nnn.nnn)
yes, use the sticky velcro. they stick to the cutting board fine, they need more help to stick to the gloves.
You can put a set together real quick.
dave, yes fingers up, but i use full coverage
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Contact Cement
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On 3/19/2002 Nic
wrote in from
(203.97.nnn.nnn)
Industrial strength contact cement is the stuff for glueing UHMWPE cutting board. Use a belt sander to rough up board/remove any grease, then use a sharp edge and cut little slits in 4 directions. Spread contact cement on both surfaces and leave for 20 min, then clamp for 2 days. This will stay stuck the till the plastic wears through.
EPOXY WILL NOT BOND to cuttingboard, might if flame treated and abraded like a snowboard base??
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Re: sliding gloves
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On 3/19/2002
Hizzout
wrote in from
(65.215.nnn.nnn)
Tony,
Hey post some pics if you get the chance, or send them my way to hizzout@hotmail.com. I'd like to see the finished product.
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3m77
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On 3/19/2002
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
hc,
I couldn't get the super77 to stick to the cutting board material... however, regular ol' contact cement did the trick.
Also, the self adhesive velcro (or similar, see my site for an alternate product called rip and grip that works very well and comes in large widths) stick to the cutting board material just fine... scuffing up the cutting board just a bit with some sand paper worked well for me.
I did find that shoe goo or similar silicon rtv was necessary for the velcro to stay attached to the gloves.
On the cutting board side, be sure to file the edges of the velcro so that it doesn't hang over the edge of the plastic... HR
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Sliding Gloves
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On 3/19/2002
Dave
wrote in from
(205.143.nnn.nnn)
I am a streetluger getting into longboarding, Do you guy just glue cutting boards for sliding on the palm of the glove, or also on the fingers? If you just do it on the palm, how do you keep your fingers from getting road rash? just hold em up?
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velcro
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On 3/18/2002 hc
wrote in from
(65.184.nnn.nnn)
with spray adhesive (3m super77), easy and quick, pads removable, replaceble...
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shoe goo
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On 3/18/2002
david
wrote in from
(209.179.nnn.nnn)
hey tony, my first pair of slide gloves was a badly cut out piece of cutting board directly shoe gooed onto a leather work glove. the shoe goo would bond with the leather, but slowly it would peel off.
my current slide gloves i have pieces of adhisive velco on the gloves and cutting board. The glue on the velco sticks nicely to the cutting board, but does'nt stick so goood on the leather. If you use shoe goo for the velco on leather, it sticks very well. Mine have stood up to alot of abuse. i think shoe goo is the best thing to use, you just have to find materials that bond well with it.
~david
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Sliding glove glue
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On 3/18/2002 Al
wrote in from
(216.2.nnn.nnn)
I used a product called "Goop" took about 3 days to cure - but I went with the velcro - so I glued velcro strips to the glove and back of the roughed up puck - 3 weeks and still holding.......Al
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Sliding glove glue
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On 3/18/2002
Tony Healy
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
Hi All. Waiting for my sliding gloves to cure up.
Used white cutting board pieces for the palms, XL Lazy Leggs (or something like that) inline wrist-guard gloves, and clear shoe goo. Took the wrist guard plastic pieces out of the half-finger gloves. They have straps and go up over the wrist, so plan is to wear them over other gloves.
Problem is, it looks like the clear shoe goo didn't bond well to the glove along some of the edge of the slide puck. Looks like it bonded ok to the puck. Gotta wait another day or so for it to fully cure, so don't wanna go messing with it yet...unless I know it ain't gonna work and need to re-glue it.
Clear shoe goo worked fine for gluing rubber on sanded down sneaker soles. Do you need to scuff up the gloves before gluing? Or does the clear stuff just not work so great on leather? Saw some old posts mentioning black shoe goo. Maybe epoxy is the ticket. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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clear grip
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On 3/12/2002 Glen
wrote in from
(64.171.nnn.nnn)
I have the Solidskate tape on my Ed E. Bankrider, Fibreflex 38" pin, Fibreflex 44" kicktail. I like the stuff.
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Wide & Clear Griptape
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On 3/11/2002 Spat
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
I noticed that SolidSkate is carrying some wide (over 10"?) and clear griptape. Has anyone tried it? That would be great if I could cover my entire park board with it, total bliss.
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