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| Riding Techniques (3851 Posts)
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Technique |
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On 7/30/2003 Sarah
wrote in from
(139.177.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the tips! I have a few follow up questions.When learning to kickturn, is it advantageous to keep your trucks(front vs back) tighter at first when learning? Where can you buy tail blocks online(the tail of my deck is getting torn to shreds)? Can someone provide a little more info about how the back heel can provide "cushioning" drag when doing a kicktail wheelie stop. What is the website for Bob's trick page or any other good online reference material for new park/pool skaters trying to learn the basics? Thanks again.
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On 7/30/2003 dreads
wrote in from
(172.181.nnn.nnn)
hey sam, try bobs trick tips page. he`s got it all.
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On 7/29/2003
sammmy, (sam)
wrote in from
(198.81.nnn.nnn)
Man, i need some guidence, i just started longboarding, i am good, i mean, i ride good i think, but i am sitting here listening to you guys talk, and i dont know the lingo at all!! Someone help me out, i have a ton of questions, my friends dont really take skating seriously, so they cant help me.
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On 7/29/2003
sammyyy
wrote in from
(198.81.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, im trying to learn tricks to do on my longboard, but i am absolutly clueless if thats possible. Anyone got a site or a tip on how i can?
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On 7/28/2003 hc
wrote in from
(130.65.nnn.nnn)
regarding tail drag, i think they are very cool,
I saw chris sturham, sp?, of nosewheelie.com doing them at la costa 2001 during the slopestyle event.
Use tail blocks for tail protection.
I believe most kids i have seen doing tail drags, actually put most pressure on their heels, thus preventing tail wear.
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On 7/28/2003 R.ene
wrote in from
(63.149.nnn.nnn)
oh, I forgot, for me it helps to use my hands and arms on backside turns, especially on banked terrain, so you are using your leading hand to point to where you want to go, and your trailing hand to control your angle, surf-style. I could get into the importance of hips, but basically try all sorts of different stuff and use what you like and what works for you.
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On 7/28/2003 R.ene
wrote in from
(63.149.nnn.nnn)
hey sarah,
i assume by backside, you mean heelside, because if you were turning toeside you would probably be landing on your knees, not your "backside." in skater terms, heelside is frontside (stupid, I know).
okay, so for the braking thing, you can do it just by stepping on your kicktail and lifting up your front foot so that the tail rubs on the ground. Some people also drag their foot while it's on the tail. I do this when I do a 360. but tail drags are lame in my opinion. They are a good way to sand down your deck fast, and not too safe at higher speeds.
for the heelside kickturn: it's tougher because you can't see where you're going. One easy way to get into it is by tic-tac-ing. link heel-and-toe side kickturns. at first they might be teeny little turns, but as you get more confident, start pushing it and doing wider and wider ones. once you've got a good, controlled tic-tac down, try taking it to some banked terrain, go up and when you start slowing down, crouch a bit and do a big kickturn and head back down.
Just like anything physical you're trying to learn (drumming, skating, martial arts), there's no magic bullet. Just start slow and simple until you're comfortable, and then start adding speed and complexity in measured doses. You'll be rockin' it in no time flat.
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On 7/28/2003
joseph
wrote in from
(211.28.nnn.nnn)
High siding is more common when grabbing. i used to grab and did not get highsided more than once but i still got very far behind the board. lean back further if your not leaning back far and you should get highsided less. i now slide without the rail grab and am sliding more controlled and faster.
i used to slide on the kryptos 85mm 80 and they slid nice and smooth but for learning i really like bones bombers 85a. slide really easy and are cheap so if you flat spot it's not too bad (compared to say flashies in 88a which i did.) also if you are wanting these wheels due to their no flatspot claim forget it. i flatspotted all four and told them they still have not changed the claim on the website. (they acknowledged my e-mail.)
harder wheels are good but they take a lot longer to slow down. i can stop at the bottom of a hill on my krypto 85mm 80a's in 5-7 metres on bombers i take about twice that if not more. they are also not as fast so they are great as long as you ride steep hills. i found when learing that if i did a high speed slide on bombers i'd drift untill i hit something. (when i first tried sliding.)
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On 7/27/2003 Dan
wrote in from
(24.80.nnn.nnn)
Hi everyone, I would just like to get some tips on sliding. At moderate speeds, I am able to do a frontside (Coleman) slide, which usually results in a 180 and me coming to a stop facing uphill.
However, at higher speeds, I end up going a little past 180 degrees, then coming to a somewhat sudden stop and getting high sided (which involves me flying backwards).
Is there anything that needs to be done differently at higher speed? Can this be a problem with my rail grabbing?
Also, would I benefit from harder wheels? I'm currently on 76mm 78a Krypto Classics (white), which feel like they need more effort to start sliding and they come to a stop more suddenly then I would like.
Has anyone had any experience sliding on 85mm 80a Krypto Classic blues?
How much of a difference in wheel size and durometer is needed to have an impact on the smoothness of slide?
Are harder wheels better for slides at higher speeds?
Thanks in advance!
Dan
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On 7/27/2003 Sarah
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I am trying to learn kikturns and get more proficient at using the kicktail of the deck. I am doing something wrong because I frequently fall off the back of the board. I have more trouble with backside turns;however, either way I usually end up on my "backside". Also, at the park I notice people use the kicktail as a braking mechanism by doing a wheelie. How do you also accomplish this without falling? Please help. Thanks
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On 7/23/2003 Scott
wrote in from
(142.177.nnn.nnn)
How many people can do 360 pendulums.... meaning a frontside 360 into a back side 360 in the same slide
thanks, Scott
www.nsboardco.tk
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On 7/18/2003 JR
wrote in from
(149.137.nnn.nnn)
I just started, i am 20, after reading your post Brian, i think it is my knee getting accustomed to it, i have been sliding after the first post, and my knee doesn't hurt anymore. thanks for your response
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On 7/17/2003
brian
wrote in from
(67.250.nnn.nnn)
J.R.
have you been sliding (hands down) for a long time or are you just getting started? sometimes a newbie will get some pain in the ankle or knee just because the "drop knee" crouch required for coleman-type slides is a new and awkward position. if you've been sliding for a while though, and the pain hasn't gone away, you are going to have to do some things differently. one of the reasons for the knee pain could be that you aren't getting enough of your weight on your sliding hand--your arse is too high. getting more weight off your board will likely do a couple of things: first, your knee won't be forced to handle as much strain, but consequently, your left shoulder will likely be strained more (all this assumes you're talking about frontside slides and you ride regular). of course the best thing to do is to avoid all injuries and the only way to do that is to listen to your body. this is a lesson i have learned in the last couple of years that completly contradicts all my experience in organized sports. playing basketball in high school and college taught me to play through pain--to relentlessly assert the power of mind over body--in order to push to the "next level." most people can get away with that sort of attitude for a while but as we age, we pay for such indiscressions sooner. when your knee starts to hurt during a session, stop sliding and consider winding it down to a close. all will probably work itself out as far as technique is concerned. you'll just have to make sure you keep yourself as pain free as possible, and that may mean not sliding for a week or two, or three. good luck.
brian
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On 7/14/2003 R.ene
wrote in from
(128.231.nnn.nnn)
JR--I second that emotion (vaitus)
if you look back a couple of pages, you'll see a discussion about this.
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On 7/14/2003 vaitus
wrote in from
(216.166.nnn.nnn)
yes, very wrong! beware cause that's going to seriously tear your knee ligaments if you keep doing it. I was doing that too and my knee got so bad I had to stop sliding for 3 long months.
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On 7/13/2003 JR
wrote in from
(149.137.nnn.nnn)
am i doing something wrong when i slide with my right hand on the rail and left on the pavment (with sliding gloves?) i am asking this because my right knee aches after executing it.
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On 7/2/2003 R.ene
wrote in from
(128.231.nnn.nnn)
hey wipe-out,
I ride pretty much the same stance riding short or long, flexy or stiff, maybe I stand a bit wider on a longboard. The good thing about a longboard is you can play around a lot more--you can get real low (drop knee), you can try riding upfront near the nose, or back on the tail, you can make your stance big or small--all of these change the feel of the ride, so monkey around and see what feels the best for you. I wouldn't lean too far backwards at first. The closer to the nose you stand, generally the more stable, the closer to back you stand, the more surfy and turny the board is --for me, anyways.
Slalom is a different story--I think there, there *are* probably foot/body positions that are proven as better than others.
When I push, I use the whole foot (heel-ball-toes), but again there isn't a "right" or wrong way. Just do what works best. The ball of your foot is the big area right before your toes.
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On 7/1/2003 Wipe-Out
wrote in from
(67.124.nnn.nnn)
Im new to longboarding and just bought a cosmic 3: supercruiser which i'll be using later on for slalom. My q regards the best riding style for simple fast cruising. Its different than normal skateboarding and I cant hack it yet. Does your body have to be forward or backward when you ride, and when you kick does the ball of your foot need to connect with the pavement, or just the top? Any advice would be awesome! thanx
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On 6/29/2003
apryl
wrote in from
(4.40.nnn.nnn)
building a smaller ramp may help.but it would be alot easier just to practice on the original.that way u could get the fell of it.it might waste too much time making that ramp too,u might make the ramp,and in that time u would probubly already learned how to drop in.but do ur own thing,its always better to do what U feel is right.seeya later,and good luck.apryl
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On 6/29/2003
apryl
wrote in from
(4.40.nnn.nnn)
vaitus is right hugh,wear ALOT of padding.as u said ur not as quick to heal as u were when u were little.id just pad up with some pro designs or some kind of really good pad(pro designs are very expensive)and just take it like u would any other drop.except u might have to lean forward a little more than usual,but not TO much.this will cause u to fly forward and im sure u dont want that to happen.dont lean to far back either,cuz this ramp has alot of vert,12' is alot,just take it like any other drop and lean forward a little more.im sure u have drooped in befor cuz u were the one who built that sic ramp!if u dont wanna drop in right away,U DONT HAVE TO.do it the old fashion way,pump it dude!im REALLY sure u know how to do that.pumpin it should make it ALOT easier,when u get used to the ramp enough that ur not expecting hard impact,do the "impossible"DROP IN.im sure that ramp will be a blast after u learn the basic drop in.well seeya later dude, break a leg!(just kidding)apryl
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On 6/29/2003 vaitus
wrote in from
(216.166.nnn.nnn)
this might help to start with: http://www.aggressive.com/help/vert_dropin.cfm
I'm learning too and found a good source of info in the pool/parks forum as well. Most important thing I guess is to keep your weight forward, touching the nose with your hand helps with this. Might be a good idea is to wear a lot of pads (I do), including hip pads. Hope that helped.
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On 6/29/2003 hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, I am looking for some technique tips for "dropping in" on a ramp that is 6' fall with 12' of transistion and just a little bit of vertical.
I am practicing on a much mellower slope of about 45 degrees... but to tell you the truth, looking down from the top of the bigger ramp and considering the drop is just a bit scary for this old guy (we never did this sort of thing when I was young and quick to heal)
Some tips would be appericiated!
Would it help for me to build a little tiny steep ramp to practice on?
Thanks, HR
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On 6/27/2003 Sam G
wrote in from
(193.203.nnn.nnn)
That'd be 'consistently' and 'style' spelled badly below then. But it is Friday. I wonder if there's a discotek on tonite?
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On 6/27/2003
Sam G
wrote in from
(193.203.nnn.nnn)
There seemed to be a bit of a discussion as how to handle the Giant Slalom course at Gruningen last Sunday amongst the ameteur rank UK/ London camp. Melting down was one option.
The course was wider that the flatland on which we typically practice, yet the slope did not offer up the speed for a pure gliding technique. Whilst we used the foot forward stance favoured by TS riders so as to go close to the cones as is viable, many of the Europeans used a more surf-based (or snow-board) style for greater lateral pump capacity. The latter technique had better results overall, especially when including double pumps between cones, and probably best reflects the typical riding style of the region.
In other words, a 'UK' stle generates a lot of grip and allows for greater lateral traction when handling offsets, whilst the European is a more powerful gliding technique often used for hill commuting as we discovered (buses are only used by Swiss skaters when travelling uphill).
Pros such as Luca, Strobel, Price and Ritchie Carrasco slaughtered the course with low and powerful well-developed styles; but for the lighter, less powerful and/ or skilled rider are there any techniques that seem to work consitantly and better than others such as the example described above?
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On 6/26/2003 Scott
wrote in from
(142.177.nnn.nnn)
Ill be done soon
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