Jason Mitchell, Seismic Nationals 2007, Hybrid Slalom.  Photo by Greg Fadell Northern California Downhill Skateboarding Association
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Street Luge (1208 Posts)
Topic Street Luge Info
On 11/7/2001 mikez wrote in from (196.2.nnn.nnn)

do you mean wildfire luges?

 
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On 11/7/2001 Leo wrote in from (146.18.nnn.nnn)

Does anyonehave any riding experience with wildfro luges???? they seem pretty damn fine for mw

leo

 
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On 10/30/2001 3rd Corner Camera wrote in from (130.191.nnn.nnn)

I just posted the pictures I took at the IGSA US Nationals, in Barrett. 

Check them out at:  http://www.geocities.com/xtremekludy/
 

Go to "Photos" then click on the link to IGSA US Nationals Images 

I will keep them there for a couple weeks - feel free to download them.

 
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On 10/29/2001 Mario wrote in from (148.87.nnn.nnn)

hc, I've got some motorcycle tires at my place. If you're in the San Carlos area, drop by and we'll cut some up. I've got plenty of power tools, too...

 
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On 10/27/2001 Tony Healy wrote in from (12.64.nnn.nnn)

HC,

Sounds good. Heard steel belts are a real pain to cut (but may make sparks at night when braking). Bike rubber might be better, as long as it's pretty flat and not too sticky. Lemme know if you need to borrow a jigsaw or belt sander. [Heading to Dallas tomorrow mid-day tho; back on Sat.]

Don't forget the beers for the neighbors. My beltsander sounds like a 737 at takeoff. Guess I should've turned it on in the store before buying it. Startled my neighbors downstairs (and probably traumitized their cats for life). Fortunately, they were mainly curious what I was up to in the garage making so much noise.

 
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On 10/27/2001 hc wrote in from (207.212.nnn.nnn)

tony, just got my leathers, now i got to work on my shoes.
marcJ just glued some tire rubber (found on the highway) on to his shoes, but it was a pain in the ass to cut due to the metal mesh things.

gonna find some motocycle rubber like bob suggested.

 
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On 10/25/2001 Tony Healy wrote in from (12.64.nnn.nnn)

Gluing rubber

Hugh's posts about using barge cement for gluing rubber lines up with how rock climbing shoes are resoled:
- cut the rubber in roughly the shape of the sole
(a little wider)
- stuff the shoe tightly with newspaper
- clean the sole and rubber with solvent
- let it evaporate fully
- scratch up sole and rubber with a wire brush
- coat sole and rubber with barge cement
- let it dry fully (until it's not tacky)
- heat both sole and rubber with a heat gun
(hair dryer on high can work)
- lay rubber on sole
- beat mercilessly with a hammer to bond them
(ideally you have a wooden last to put the shoe on,
otherwise you stuff it with newspaper)
- hammer from the center out towards the edges
- give your neighbors a beer so they won't call the cops
about all the noise you're making
- let it sit overnight to fully bond and cool off
- bevel the edges of the sole with a belt sander
(but be careful not to belt sand the shoe upper,
trust me on this)

Differences:
- Rock climbing rubber is glued directly to the shoe midsole, not the rubber outersole. If there's tread, even after grinding, that may reduce the contact surface area since the barge cement layers are thin compared to shoe goo.
- Rock climbing rubber is sticky, so probably not a good candidate for braking shoes. But you might be able to get a climbing shop to do the resole job if you didn't wanna do it. You'd need to source the rubber tho.
- Climbers usually don't reach high speeds. If they do, it's the rope that stops them [hopefully]. Not sure about the bond strength of Barge cement for gluing braking rubber, but it can be a real pain in the ass to pry off the old rubber from climbing shoes.

 
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On 10/25/2001 Bob Swartz wrote in from (207.199.nnn.nnn)

cchouston

IF you need ideas for place to shoot a luge ride with Chris in or around San Antinio just let me know. I ride there just about everytime I visit the in-laws. San Antonio is cool, but there are very few good roads becauce most of them are rolled chip surface. I met Glen from Solidskate when he lived there and also bombed a few sick hills in Austin that Bob Loftin suggested.

anytime

Blue Smoke Racing Team

 
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On 10/24/2001 cchouston wrote in from (65.16.nnn.nnn)

Thanks Chris! I just sent you an email.

 
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On 10/24/2001 Chris Chaput wrote in from (63.168.nnn.nnn)

cchouston,

I'll have to put something together for you. Everything I have out there right now is either old or lame or both.

I'm definitely interested and well connected if you need other riders. Email me and we'll move forward outside of the message board.

Thanks in advance for the opportunity and thank Bob for me too!

 
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On 10/24/2001 cchouston wrote in from (65.16.nnn.nnn)

Hey Chris Chaput,

I got your name from Bob Loftin at bobstricktips.com. I'm looking for a luge skater to put in a commercial in San Antonio, Texas. He says you're great. Would you be interested, and do you have a website where I could see a picture of you and any of your gear? Write back if interested, and then I'll give you contact info. to get in touch with me.

 
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On 10/24/2001 cchouston wrote in from (65.16.nnn.nnn)

Hey Chris Chaput,

I got your name from Bob Loftin at bobstricktips.com. I'm looking for a luge skater to put in a commercial in San Antonio, Texas. He says you're great. Would you be interested, and do you have a website where I could see a picture of you and any of your gear? Write back if interested, and then I'll give you contact info. to get in touch with me.

 
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On 10/24/2001 Chris Chaput wrote in from (63.168.nnn.nnn)

Good News, Bad News. The good news is that there are some recent developments in streetluge design and construction that are allowing riders to go faster and safer than ever before. The bad news is that the best rider in the world, Dave Rogers, is the guy who is riding the new technology. The design concept was pioneered by another of the worlds best, Darren Lott, but Dave's testing of his prototypes has guys now wondering how in the hell he can be stopped. The answer is, ride a similar luge, better wheels and PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.

My prediction at Barrett Junction? Dave Rogers. Wow, I really went out on a limb there didn't I?

 
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On 10/21/2001 Somebody wrote in from (216.175.nnn.nnn)

This is a stinky message board

 
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On 10/17/2001 Leo wrote in from (146.18.nnn.nnn)

Check this out, they have some good looking wood luges and rails.
http://www.woodwheelsandwings.com/

also, have anybody has any xperience with landluge basic luges?
Leo

 
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On 10/14/2001 Chris wrote in from (63.36.nnn.nnn)

Seattle area rookie looking for help!

Hello everyone, I am an old school buttboarder looking to try out luging. Any advice given is greatly appreciated. What should I look for in a beginners luge? I'm not interested in racing to begin with, just having fun. Any used luges for sale? I don't want to spend a lot until I get some experience. Anybody around Seattle willing to let me try their luge?

Thanks, Chris

 
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On 10/12/2001 Leo wrote in from (146.18.nnn.nnn)

ok, i think i would start with a wood luge until i find a goood aluminum handcrafter in here (venezuela)...

if no i think that my x-mas present would be a roger bors luge, do they have a webpage?
i know they are sold at some online stores (lllv, subterfuge, researchgravitysport.com)but wanted to check them direcly and last, who sells good used luges?

Leo

 
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On 10/12/2001 Chris Chaput wrote in from (63.168.nnn.nnn)

Stiff. With a wheelbase that long it's too easy to bottom out (scrape the underside) otherwise.

 
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On 10/12/2001 Leo wrote in from (146.18.nnn.nnn)

Thanx Bob and Chris, i am staring to understand a few things.

another question, does the luge have to be very flexy or very stiff?
i dont want to build or buy a luge that will hit the bottom on every turn(or this is supposed to happen?)

btw i am 165lbs

Leo

 
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On 10/11/2001 Chris Chaput wrote in from (63.168.nnn.nnn)

Two schools of thought.

1. Distribute the weight over 6 wheels instead of 4.

2. Have the frontmost trucks "dangle" the wheels a fraction of an inch off of the ground so that you are riding on 4 wheels in the straights but on 6 wheels in the turns when you need the extra traction most.

In either case you can get more traction in the turns, especially if you set them up so that they don't "fight" with one another. The frontmost truck has to turn a little more than the one just behind it. Most guys shim the bushings with a thick washer rather than wedge the truck.

 
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On 10/11/2001 bob swartz wrote in from (132.250.nnn.nnn)

Trucks and rubber!!!

If you are just starting out and do not buddy with someone alerady using double trucks, dont bother. They are a pain in the ass to setup perfectly and give you more to worry about. Just leave room in luge design to add a truck behind the single front truck. When you go to a race ask the pro's for tips on using the double setup. One more tip, if you are less than 170lbs you are most likey wasting your time with a double truck setup.

Rubber.... Dont use sticky Rubber for brakes. been tried by many. Do not use racing slicks they will just grab the road and put your feet behind your ass in a split second. You do need some slide. The motorcycle tire I use are right at the max sticky limit I would use.

bob

 
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On 10/11/2001 shnitzel wrote in from (65.94.nnn.nnn)

i recently picked up some worn out super sticky cart slicks... going to stick-em on a set of shoes and see how they do. probably wont have a review 'till the snow melts though..... powdies, rollies, groomies and wings soon to come!

 
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On 10/11/2001 Leo wrote in from (146.18.nnn.nnn)

Thanx to all who answered, i really want to get into luging, i havent seen or ride one, i am trying to build my own and was having doubts about the trucks, i´ll think that i´ll go with the 60° ones..


another question, can u clever minds explain to me the reason to use double trucks up front, and how to use this setup?

Thanx again..

leo

 
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On 10/10/2001 hugh r wrote in from (205.216.nnn.nnn)

Part II... HR


"I forgot to mention that both the shoe sole and
the tire tread must be
scratched, painted with thinner, and then have
contact cement apllied.
Doing only one side would never work.
Additionally wait until the glue
is dry before bonding the surfaces and then
reactivate the glue by
heating it with a hairdryer. It wouldn't hurt to
get a repair last and a
stand but these aren't neccesary although the
cost of used shoe repair
equipment is minimal these days. I would also
advise you to go ahead and
spend the bucks to use new shoes when you are
building your luge shoes.
Old shoe are worn out in ways that just can't be
compensated for."


Now you all know why I love the net! Information just flows and flows!

 
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On 10/10/2001 Chris Chaput wrote in from (63.168.nnn.nnn)

I use two 60 degree Randal Luge Trucks up front and one on the back of my Rogers Bros luge. The long wheelbase and low CG of a luge make them plenty stable at 70+mph. After a certain point, the increase of steering angle in a truck becomes ineffective because the kingpin doesn't have the necessary leverage to turn the hanger sharply. I ride my luges, buttboards and speedboards really loose and never have any probs with wobs.

I use the 35 degree baseplates on speedboards and 50 degree baseplates on buttboards.

 
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