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| Bearing Reviews (4976 Posts)
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LONO
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On 8/20/1999
MANU
wrote in from
(164.138.nnn.nnn)
hi Lono, i answer to your question a little bit late,
i hope not to hurt my friend who wrote that wd 40 was bad
for bearings, i can make mistakes, i'm not god but i always
use that oil on my bearings and never have any problem.
I'm racing with bearings oiled with wd40 !!! and believe me
it is efficient
Manu french rider
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Water
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On 8/17/1999 Lee
wrote in from
(195.186.nnn.nnn)
I always wash my bearings with pure hot water (no degreaser) and any dishwashing liquid. To make sure they dont rustI use a hairdryer to blow them totally dry. I've been using these bearings for over a year and they work fine and keep rollin.
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spacer measurements
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On 8/16/1999
Bob
wrote in from
(192.73.nnn.nnn)
I was reading some of the old post on the bearing spacer thread in this section, and it seems like there is a lack of industry standardization with regard to the proper width of a spacer and/or distance between bearings.
I measured the spacers I own, and here are the results:
Pig spacers: slightly over 10mm
Luckies: 9mm
Old no-name spacers: 10mm
The luckies seem to work well in the Spitfire wheels, while the Pig seem to fit my Powell wheels fine. Geesh -- this a pain in the ass. Why can't the industry get their act together and have a good standard again?
Bob
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WD40
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On 8/14/1999
Brandon
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
DO NOT USE THIS STUFF ON ANY PART OF YOUR BOARD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!WHY?
1. IT CORRODES, YOUR BEARINGS WILL DIE!!!!!
2. ITS PENETRATING OIL, ITS NOT GOING TO STAY ON THERE FOR VERY LONG AND WHEN YOUR BEARINGS RUN DRY YOU GET FRICTION WHICH LEADS TO HEAT AND DEAD BEARINGS!
trust me on this, never use it
rollin rollin rollin keep those big ones rollin
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Never?
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On 8/12/1999 Matt
wrote in from
(207.252.nnn.nnn)
Yeah I figured it would be detrimental but if I didn't rinse the degreaser then the lube wouldn't set. I'll check them out tonight and see how bad they are.
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Water!?
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On 8/12/1999
Pierre
wrote in from
(207.253.nnn.nnn)
Never, i mean never put water in your bearings, rince them with gasoline or specially made degreaser, or use compressed air to force dirt out, best get some bearings that you can remove the balls to clean.
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Bearing Issues
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On 8/12/1999 Matt
wrote in from
(207.252.nnn.nnn)
So I opend my bearings and cleaned them out with a degreaser and then lubed them thoroughly. When I put them back on and spun them they just kept going and going. I rode it two days later, and now they are slow as shite. What gives. Do you think it was a mistake to use degreaser to clean them? What should I do. Should I just lube agian? I should also mention that I rinsed the degreaser with water. I know I know water equals rust, but I had to get the junk off somehow. I dried them as best as I could. Help.
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Manu!
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On 8/11/1999 Lono
wrote in from
(205.215.nnn.nnn)
What oil do you use?
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fastest bearings
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On 8/10/1999
Manu
wrote in from
(164.138.nnn.nnn)
I really think the best bearings are the solid ones.
Ceramics are fast but not faster than good swiss bones gold serie, i made different chronos with each ones on good roads
no wind, same board same wheels and the result was better for the bones !
Maybe the first runs were better with the cerams but i am not sure, what i can say is the oil you put inside is very important, abec 3 well cleaned are faster than ceramics without oil or with bad oil ! Don't think a good and fast bearing is one which roll fast without grease or oil between your fingers !!! In charge at speed the bearing need to be lubricated. Last advice about ceramics, never give them shocks, they hate road cracks, bumps, holes etc...
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fafnirs
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On 8/9/1999 speedy
wrote in from
(209.91.nnn.nnn)
try this herb, www.pix.za/manex/right.htm when you get to the page scroll to the bottom and click on Torrington.That page should bring you to the fafnirs and all other types of bearings you may need.By the way ,I have been skating since I was 14. I am now 36.
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flex patterns
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On 8/9/1999 herb n
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
flex patterns, sounds like this technology applies to snowboarding,even then I think many talk few understand and its mostly sales pitch. I just skate for fun but I do like getting tech about my boards so I may even try out som FAFNIR's , I'd actually rather ride with someone that had a set so I could see exactly how much faster they are, until then I think I'll stay with the theory that after ABEC5 bearings follow a rule of deminishing returns, if you race and its the difference between 1st and 2nd go for it,I havn't raced (and really don't plan to) why did you mention a french race 6 years ago , I've been skating much longer than that, and yes trying to make a corner standing is definitely crazier than sliding it, but sometimes it just doesn't seem possible, is there any video of that race in the Pyrannes? if that is the ultimate race that I should've been at I'd love to check it out. How much do FAFNIRS cost and where can I get em (that web address didn't work)
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fastest bearings? Luge bearings?
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On 8/9/1999
Keith Fellmy
wrote in from
(134.68.nnn.nnn)
Hey Speedy
Will these work for luge too? I currently use Ninja bearings and the ceramic ones for racing. I'm checking out the site you posted as soon as I get done with this message.
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fastest bearings
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On 8/8/1999 Speedy
wrote in from
(207.41.nnn.nnn)
First of allHerb they are not my bearings.I believe the technology in skateboard flex patterns along with the tech. of the turning radius of some trucks and proper wheels can allow you to successfully make many turns around corners at speed with proper angulation of the body. Sliding seems to be a non commitment to the turn and therefore does not require balls. All of the wheels you go through you could have gotten some Fafnirs and see what Im talking about.Oh and where were you at the French downhill in the Piranees in '93?
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fastest bearings
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On 8/8/1999 Herb n
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
oh no! here we go again with the my bearings are the fastest na na blah blah , who cares ? even in a race the terrain , corners that need to be slid around ,should be on the course ,that type of course would make skill and balls (not the ones in your wheels) the most important factor, let me guess races are not like that, as for riding by yourself or with your friends bearings should be less important , hell sometimes on lumpy smooth narrow roads I wish I had slower bearings, but thats rare.
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Super High precision bearings
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On 8/8/1999 Speedy
wrote in from
(209.91.nnn.nnn)
For those who want the fastest bearings known as Fafnirs you can find them atwww.pix.za/manex/tor5.htm.They also sell ceramic bearings.Ratings are abec7 and 9.For you ignorant ones, yes they will blow away your swissbearings.No joke.
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Bearing cleanin'
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On 8/5/1999
Chis
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Use alcohol and leave em' in the sun and it will evaporate after a couple hours. Then use a seringe to lube them if they have non removable metal shields.
keep it rollin' Chis
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cleaning and lubricating
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On 8/4/1999 Dan
wrote in from
(209.240.nnn.nnn)
T remove the bering shield, there should be a ring in the shape of a "c" that goes around the outside of the shield, beetween the shield and the outer race (casing). to remove the "C" ring stick a needle in the open part of the "C" and pry it out. be careful not to lose them because they can fly all over the place.after the "c"ring is removed the shield should just fall off. If it doesn't try tapping it on something. if this doesn't work tr using the needle to pop it out.
to clean your bearings, what I have found works the best and is the least expensive is Paint thinner (mineral spirits). the problemswith other cleaners is that once you put the bearings in them they do not fully dry on the inside, and the lubricant doesn't work at it's full potential. with mineral spirits, you just take one or bothof the shields off. put some paint thinner (mineral spirits)in a container and swish your bearings around in it for a little bit. the paint thinner (mineral spirits) will dry off by themselves, but to speed up the process spin the bearings and some of the paintthinner (mineral spirits) will come out, after that just let them sit and dry.
after they have competely dried drop a couple drops of lubricant into them and put them back togather. the lubricant I like is Boss speed lube. I havent tried too many different kinds. it costs about 5 bucks a bottle it is a little bottle, but it lasts a while because you only ned 2 drops per bearing.whn you are done just put your bearings back togather. I'm sure you can figure that out.
after your bearings start to get wore out, or you just don't have the time to clean them properly, I just use some WD40 or some of that castroll stuff in the spray can, this way you dont even have to take the bearigs out of the wheels, oor even take th wheels off the trucks for that matter, just use the little straw that comes with the WD40. be careful of getting it on the wheels because it makes them extremely slippery, and can sause major accidents.
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Cleaning?
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On 8/4/1999 Matt
wrote in from
(207.252.nnn.nnn)
I wanted to clean my bearings with some of that oranj peelz degreaser. The only problem is I can't remove the shields. Maybe they aren't removable. How can I tell? How do I remove them? I was considering just dunking the whole bearing into the degreaser then drying them and lubing. This could be a problem. If I can't open the bearing then there will be some degreaser left in there and it will negate the effect of the grease. Any help?
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The old standby: 3 in 1
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On 8/4/1999
Keith Fellmy
wrote in from
(134.68.nnn.nnn)
Yep, 3 in 1 oil works great and is not as messy as Slick 50. There are many oils that work but the lighter weight oils will make you faster.
Also guys on Ebay they sell the standard rollerblade bearing with a bushing instead of a sheild. Try them once and watch the smoke that comes off when they get heated up. It's really cool and impresses people (that should read girls). Don't use them more than a couple of times. All that heat something is sure to give way.
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OIL
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On 8/3/1999
Brandon
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
this sounds kinda weird but heavy duty sewing machine oil is the best oil ive used! give it a try youll like it!
laters
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Oil
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On 8/2/1999 Lono
wrote in from
(205.215.nnn.nnn)
I've been very happy with using Slick 50.
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oil
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On 8/1/1999
Steve
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I use old lube oil from my slot car racing days. It works really well. It's called "Champion" or something. But if you're going to be pulling your bearings out to oil them, you might as well clean them. Use a carburetor cleaner such as Gum Out.
steve
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oil
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On 8/1/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
any oil is"ok" ,better than none ,just use one or two drops per bearing ,on china bones take the bearings out and oil from the retainer side. If your real low on money find a can of motoroil at a gas station ,there is always more than enough oil left clinging to the can, you'll fell like your in a madmax movie but still be clean and dont over oil.If you have money triflon oil or speed cream are worth the money.
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China Bones
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On 7/31/1999
Princess
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Is household oil okay to lubricate bearings with?? or should I just go out and buy some expensive skate speed oil or something? any suggestions of using any other stuff as lubrication?
~ Princess
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COOL Spacers
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On 7/27/1999
Rene
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
Hey all you spacer groopies, I would like to say they will make a diffrence, if you check the fluid site you will see I have had them on the site for over a year. www.longskate.com will have them in stock soon so check on them, the type we make have a self centering halo that makes it easier to mount your wheel on the axle, as the style that come in bones, and other co. boxes are metal, and you need to find a pencil to help mount them on the axle. Anyhow ours are made of T6 alloy and are not cheap, but as they say "good things are not cheap and cheap thing are not good" so step up and buy some soon, also look for the new Power Paw Alluminator wheel!!
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