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| Long Distance Pumping (LDP) (1492 Posts)
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HerbN
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On 2/7/2006 Al Williams
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(66.98.nnn.nnn)
Thanks Sean for the tip! I'll try to contact him soon for some advice on the axles!
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hopin' for some hoppin'
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On 2/7/2006 Al Williams
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(66.98.nnn.nnn)
Yes, James, I don't like to think of such scenarios. I already smacked my head on the ground, once before, and it almost knocked me out! However, I'm pretty much an optimist, and I guess thats why I like to invent things... I always think there is a way to solve almost any problem,especially if its a mechanical one. So, if the shyhooks really work, it's great, but if they are still too dangerous, then maybe its best to consider other possibilites. One thing seems pretty sure, though..and that is, that the sport would definately benefit by such a product that really helps longboards get off the ground!...and land safely! :) Anyway, I guess I'll make a couple sets of sky hooks to try out, it's probably faster and cheaper than having some shipped to the Carribbean.
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hooks
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On 2/6/2006 peters
wrote in from
United States
(24.18.nnn.nnn)
great idea Sean about herbn, he was recently posting pics over there on his latest truck creation.
Al, I've used toe stops and wedges but only thought about sky hooks, just to create a really positive, locked-in pump -- but now that you mention it I see practical applications jumping trail obstacles that seriously scrub speed. The bike trail I ride all the time has these really nasty 'ribbed' concrete structures just before some intersections, that are best cruised over diagonally, but when the trail's really busy you just have to roll over them head-on, lose speed, and feel your fillings rattle loose. Sky hooks might be perfect for a bunny hop there... The only trade-off I see is being locked in, cuz on my ride home tonight I hit this gnarly little rubber washer thing that stopped by board COLD, but I was able to hop off pretty gracefully. With the hooks it might have looked more like a snowboard flip, without the snow... :-O
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Errr...
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On 2/6/2006 Sean C.
wrote in from
United States
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
Um... I meant axle... not axel...
oops.
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Axel Metal
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On 2/6/2006
Sean C.
wrote in from
United States
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
Hey Al, you might want to make a post on that in the board building forum. HerbN makes his own trucks and he'll definitely know what to use.
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Is sae4140 chrome molly..good axle steel?
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On 2/6/2006 Al Williams
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(66.98.nnn.nnn)
Another question, but differnt topic...axle steel. Does anyone know if SAE 4140 chrome molly steel is good for longboard truck axles? Or is there better steel available?
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sky hooks
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On 2/6/2006 Al Williams
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(66.98.nnn.nnn)
Anyone know how well the sky hooks work? I think the ability to throw in a few jumps while pumping would be pretty fun! If we can compare longboarding, both downhill and pumping, somewhat to skiing, this 'airborne' side of the sport of longboarding should be developed. Every skiier knows that getting a little air every now and then makes that sport all the more fun...and this should also translate into longboarding. The problem is how to make such jumping safe on asphalt. And of course I'm not talking about trick riding, ollies etc... which are generally low velocity jumps. I'm thinking of some pretty fast speed jumps, say in the 5-10mph range. Any ideas?
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new car park
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On 2/4/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Just checked out the new sport centre car park, really smooth, shame about the massive humps half way down!
Anyway somewhere new is always nice and we now the manager so thats cool.
The 180's are quite hard work, but i can make speed quite quickly, at one point i was doing s-carves and pumped the rear more than i would normally and found speed in a way i didnt know about!
Now i sort of understand the rear accellerator thing now, but although it felt great and i wasnt getting the cramp in my front foot as usual, i couldnt get my footing the same again????
I'll get it, more practice, more fun.
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Heavier Original Springs
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On 2/4/2006
Sean C.
wrote in from
United States
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
One thing you might want to try SS, is asking Scott to send you some heavier springs for the rear Original. I would imagine the Carver front with the Original rear might be a little to squirrly to actually gain a considerably fast top speed. It may accelerate very well, but top out quickly. Scott has heavier springs for heavier riders, and making the rear Original a bit less responsive yet still very turny could do the trick...
As far as a cut down CX goes, I may buy one and then ask a machinest by me to cut it down and put 8mm axels in it... This could get very interesting...
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jamie's kingpin mod
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On 2/4/2006
peters
wrote in from
United States
(24.18.nnn.nnn)
Jamie, that's a great idea! Revenge trucks use a stock kingpin like that, all smooth, just a little threading. "...a longer bolt(3 3/4") cutting it down, leaving about 1/2" of thread for the nut..." Hope to hear some cool commuting stories down the road -- make sure your workplace has showers ;-)
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originals front or back...
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On 2/3/2006 peters
wrote in from
United States
(64.236.nnn.nnn)
Once you get Originals dialed and get accustomed to their amazing turning radius, you'll be carving up any steep or mellow slope. The 'fish' shaped Original deck allows huge wheels without bite. I've got a few sets of the 6's, and even use Originals as a RollsRolls front truck, to give that super stiff deck at least a chance to be a pumper ;-)
I've had reservations using Originals as front truck for LDP, and this comes from busting two baseplates rather quickly a couple years ago. For a long time I was discouraged, even though I loved these trucks they didn't seem to hold up to the long flat pump sessions. HOWEVER, it turns out there were a couple gaffes on my part. One is, with Originals you must check the bushings to make sure the main pin hasn't loosened too much, just as you would check the c-clip on Seismics or tighten the kingpin on a Radikal. The other is just to keep the bushings lubed. I was riding mine on 10-mile flat pumps continuously, several times in a row without double checking and adjusting. With just a little care they last forever. And if you're mostly downhill carving, they take much, much longer to require maintenance. Scott at Original replaced 'em right away and I'm still stoked on their unique, surfy feel. Sounds like an interesting test what SS is doing with an Original on the back - I'd be curious to hear how well they propel you forward, I haven't tinkered with their different springs but the silver ones I found made me work a little harder. Still they have a very cool surfy feel. I can see why they're a preferred mellow cruising truck when it comes to flats.
For LDP I still depend a lot on the CX, it holds up without any checking, for at least a 26-miler, so I can make it through a marathon non-stop. Usually at least one component, the top or bottom bushing or pivot cup are thrashed by the end, but it makes it to the finish line!
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cut down CX
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On 2/3/2006 peters
wrote in from
United States
(64.236.nnn.nnn)
hey Sean, I asked both chicken and geezer about a month ago, and both of them could cut down a Carver CX, but I just haven't followed up on it. I'd say go for it! I've tapped out my slalom budget for the immediate future unless I can sell a kidney on eBay. It would be an interesting experiment at the very least.
I don't think modifying the Carver C7 or the RTR would be worth it though --IMHO they don't snap back to center fast enough for slalom. Unless you could get a fatter, snappier spring in the inside of the RTR. Those guys have modded a couple parts around the main spring for me which should make them last longer on LDP rides, I'll be testing next week hopefully!
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Hmmm... Cut Down Carver?
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On 2/3/2006
Sean C.
wrote in from
United States
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
If the Carver CX and C7 are both excellent trucks for pumping. And down require to be cranked over very deeply (such as an Original S6 or Exkate 101), would a cut down version work well as a front slalom truck? I would think definitely yes. The CX would probably work better because it turns harder from swiveling (or turning) to the side (the baseplate). The C7 relies more on a sharp deep turn... The same could apply for the RTR carving truck as it does for the CX... So why not? Reasons?
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Originals
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On 2/3/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Sounds good if you can work with it.
I've been thinking about Originals as a front truck?
I had some of what i think are the s8's, it was a time ago when all i was worried about was deep carves down fast hills. I rode them and rode them, there was one moment that it all seemed to come together, then all four wheels went sideways and i found myself on my face! They soon were sold to a guy who 'pumps' his deck, instead of putting his feet down, whats all that about??
I've now got some of the really wide (250's?) ones, on a popsickle, they are both on the kicks with 109mm offroad wheels, it goes down grass hills like a snowboard!
So are they any good as a front truck? I know i would never now use one on the rear.
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A Pumpin' Epiphany....
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On 2/3/2006
silversurfer
wrote in from
United States
(71.192.nnn.nnn)
I have two pumping set ups.
One is a Comet Scramjet with Double Pivot trucks front and rear with 80a
Hot Spots. That one is a sweet ride.
The other is the Roe Eldorado with a Carver CX front truck and a standard carver (regular) truck in back. I've used 76mm 78a Flywheels
and 78a Gumballs on this on trying to see what I like better.
The problem with this set up is that the front truck turns so tight that the back outside wheel lifts frequently when pumping or hard turning.
I read about James Peters using a seismic rear truck on one of his set ups, and I almost pulled the trigger on a 30* 155mm. But then it hit me......
A pumping epiphany!
Why not try a 150mm Original S6 on the back?!
Especially since I have it on hand, and I don't currently have any seismics in inventory.
So I did it. I left the CX in front and put the S6 in back. I evened out the height with one soft riser and one hard riser (of different flat sizes) under each truck.
Then I had to match up the width, since CX's are 160mm and S6's are 150mm. So I put 78a Gumballs (off set) in back and 76mm 78a Flywheels (centerset) in front. Viola! The height and width are a near perfect match.
The outside rear no longer lifts!
The pumping power and speed have increased exponentially!
The fun and coolness factor have sky rocketed!
It turns tighter and with more precision!
It carves like a dream (well that WAS a dream, no place to test carving right now)!
I actually had to loosen the front CX to keep the FRONT wheel from lifting.
A truly awesome pumping set up.
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tape
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On 2/2/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
You'd be surprised,
i use it on ply sometimes, i've never used duct tape but it might be too sticky and could damage the glass when you take it off, unless you make it less tacky 1st??
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Duct Tape?
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On 2/2/2006 Sean C.
wrote in from
United States
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
Hmm... Good idea... You think duct tape would work as well? I would think masking tape is too thin and tearable to provide sufficient protection from splintering fibreglass...
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goggles and a mask
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On 2/2/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Sorry to state the obvious man, but a mask is as well.
Have you cut it yet?
I dont know if the glass will spinter, but some wide masking tape put on both sides before you draw your shape could help stop that?
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Goggles
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On 2/2/2006 Sean C.
wrote in from
United States
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
Well yeah, of course, goggles are always a must (or at least saftey glasses).
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Kingpins and Needles
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On 2/2/2006 JamieM.
wrote in from
Canada
(65.93.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the reply JPeters. What I have been doing for some of my setups is taking a longer bolt(3 3/4") cutting it down, leaving about 1/2" of thread for the nut. This removes the bending loads from the threaded section. If you have already tried this, how did it hold up to LDP? The Radikal Kingpin is different than a standard pin,it's threaded at both ends. I think it would fail quite quickly under hard LDPing.
My Goal for summer is to be able to pump to work! About 3.5km. Should be fun!
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SEAN C.
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On 2/2/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
I was looking back and realised i hadn't posted about cutting that deck like i was going to.!!
Just incase you've not started, i've never cut fibre glass, BUT, the best advise i can give you is, MASK AND GOGGLES ALWAYS WHEN CUTTING AND SANDING, I only had to rub an eye once while sanding between coats of varnish, to know that dust is not good for you, when you read whats in the stuff its like 'murder she wrote'? Also if its fibreglass, i'd be inclined to get some latex gloves and tuck in your sleeves, those dispossable white suits are good aswell.
Might sound a little extreem, but i've decided that skateboard carsigens, will not be why i have breathing problems in my old age!!
Have fun though dood.......
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Surf Bug..
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On 2/1/2006 SS
wrote in from
United States
(71.192.nnn.nnn)
James keep me posted on the Surf Bug updates.
And please mention my situation to Steve when you see him.
I'm eager to have him make me a "Surf Bug" with the snappier flex and whatever other mods you can think of to improve it's pumping prowess.
Thanks!
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pins and stuf
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On 2/1/2006
peters
wrote in from
United States
(24.18.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the note on the site Jamie! Most of the time kingpins break right where the threading starts, or in the middle of the threads. Its why flipping kingpin position is key -- keeping the smooth part of the bolt where the hangar stresses it most.
Not sure the Rad kingpin would work on Randal (for one thing its too short) but I'll be stressing/testing my Radikal pin on a Radikal from this weekend! According to a thread over on the Trucks forum though, I can't ride over cracks in the pavement with my Radikal...nice smooth racing surfaces only (hmmm) So even though I've got doubts about that theory, I will be religiously avoiding all cracks and thus expecting this kingpin *never ever* to break! ;-)
SS, I'm taking my Surf Bug over to Steve this weekend for a couple mods, just a little shorter but keeping long wheelbase, it had slight excess in tail then just one "little" performance tweak...
Munchh your setups rock, cool to see you gettin' it dialed!
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Now I get it!
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On 2/1/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
I set these up and have just been out for a quick go as i'm not throwing up anymore!!
And it was quick,
for as soon as i stepped outside it started snowing?? (bloody conspiracy)
Anyway, the top one has 2" from nose to bolts the other has 3", i know this is short compaired to many of you, but they are my 1st setups and as you can see from the bottom one, its not like i wont drill more holes. They both have a 175mm 'redline' (i think) truck on the rear mounted flat and a high wedged 180 RII on the front, both have a 27 3/4" WB.
I rode the top one down the hill outside my house, its a cresant that gets flat as it runs past my close, normally after turning into the close, about halfway up the hill i have to push the rest of the way to my house, but oooohhhhh no, not this time.
I was able to pump easily all the way in and only had to stop because my car was in the way.................WICKED!!!!
My kiro's are on the way and i got an extra set to put in my Randals, i'm still on the look out for 150mm hangers, but by the feel of it i'm gonna be having some fun with the 180's.
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bug etc
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On 2/1/2006
toddc
wrote in from
United States
(198.39.nnn.nnn)
Andy, maybe we can meet some saturday in SM and you can give my deck a try. I'll bring along couple of others as well (42" pocketpistol superlite RII 150s with 75m 80a Manx, 36" pocket pistol superlite RII 150s with 80a Avila, 39" custom pumpkin with trackers and blue comets, 44" pocket pistol ditchkiller with carver c7s and red zigzags...write to me and we'll see what we can do.
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How to Pump