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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 5/5/1999 gseLM
wrote in from
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I`m making a board at school. I have this board called "skuda" (the first skateboards made in England)
and i`m copying the design. It starts to look really cool!
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On 5/3/1999
Brian
wrote in from
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I just started making my own longboards about 4 months ago. I fyou use 5/16" mahogony plywood on about a 38" board you get great flex and good stability also. All I know is after you shape and mount your first board it is an awesome feeling.
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On 5/3/1999 pierre
wrote in from
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Fred, i tried that a couple years ago (mounting trucks on nose and tail) it did improve the turning radius, but your feet are lower than usual so it gives ou less leverage to turn, it was fun for a couple of days.
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Will this idea work?
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On 5/2/1999
Fred
wrote in from
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Does anybody know if putting standard skateboard trucks on the kicktail ends of a double kicktail board will help make the angle of the trucks turn better?
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On 4/28/1999
matt
wrote in from
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Has anyone got some good info for starting out in concave laminating? I know the basic idea, but would like to find the real guff from people who have pulled off epic boards. Whats the best wood, how do you make the moulds etc. Is there any stuff on the web or any books? All info appreciated.
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On 4/28/1999 Mike
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Couldn't you just not put any grip on the deck and use sex
wax like on surf boards?
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On 4/27/1999
J.P. Love
wrote in from
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Epoxy coatings:
for my purposes (adding rigidity and a surface grip) I use West System 2 part epoxy. I use the 2 series hardener b/c it makes for a clearer coating and takes longer to set up. i.e. you have a few extra minutes to work with it. I find a 3:1 epoxy/hardener ratio works well. As for a grippy surface; I just grab a handful of sand from the beach while the epoxy sets up and sprinkle it on the board. This reminds me that my 'Terminator TX3' trick waterski-come-longboard is probably all set for a ride...
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On 4/23/1999 Bevis
wrote in from
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For a grip tape alt.you can coat your board with a real thin coat of epoxy resin or polyester resin, then sprinkle sugar for a super clear grip surface.
For a less clear but better hold, use silica sand, 3m sells a "special" kind that contains less dust than just buying bag of the stuff ( I don't believe them though ).
Glass beads are another alt. but not really the best choice.
You need to be pretty good with resin or else you're going to have a sloppy mess that will require a lot of sanding. If you're not good with it, practice on an old hunk of wood,
this will also let you gauge how much and what kind of grip stuff to put on.
Bevis quote o' da day,
Those who beat their swords into plows usually end up plowing for those who didn't.
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On 4/21/1999
Martin
wrote in from
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Does anyone know how to do the clear epoxy grip thing like on
Kapu or Castles boards. Grip tape gets pretty spendy on
longboards.
Let me know,
Martin
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On 4/21/1999 eggman
wrote in from
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Randal motorboard...
Hey!
I was fortunate enough to try one of the Randal motorboards last weekend. It freaked me out, but it was way cool. I bit it going really slow, so I can only imagine it fast! I was checking out the hardware that makes it go. Very complicated and all sealed up from view, but a nice package all together. I guess the motor is from a "go-ped". Randal was telling me that the whole project (to design it)was really time consuming and complicated. They are killer though! I wish I could give you some more hints....
Later
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On 4/21/1999
Ro-o-o
wrote in from
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Anyone out there who can give me the clue to an home made powerboard?
Randal or TSI or Motoboard are way too expensive....I'd like to make something myself.
Maybe with a chain saw or a solex engine. BUT I DON'T KNOW HOW. Please mail me!
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On 4/20/1999 namon
wrote in from
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about that snowboard thing, i have allready done it, its preaty damn cool.
i like mine alot, but then it startes to wear off and you
will want to go back to a board that was meant for longboarding.
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Limited 150
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On 4/19/1999
ACCouch
wrote in from
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Has anyone else ever mounted a snowboard?
I just mounted a 150 cm snowboard and want to know if anyone else has tried it. It is a blast to ride and it looks cool too, but those with soul know it is not about the image. I had to mount it up pretty high with some risers to keep the wheels from hitting the board. If anyone can get their hands on some old snowboards with bad edges or bases, you should definitely try it!!!
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On 4/17/1999
OLD TIMER
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i made longboards 25 years ago in so.cal,we didnt call them longboards, havent riden in twenty years and my son now has found some of my old boards in the barn. does anyone still ride 6' solid oak anymore.
one thing we did before we could buy store bought boards was to get old water skis and make great but crazy boards
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On 4/13/1999 jon
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nev , no i haven't bombed the steepest street in the southern hemisphere. I do really value my life ,but on the other hand what a way to go.I have managed to get some marine ply from a boat builders here in Dunedin( Bloody expensive) and made up a few development boards. They seem to have turned out ok. I also have been using indies ,but with angled risers. Also I use the larger 76mm kryptonics.
I have seen a few vert laminated boards they look all class. How did shape it or have you left it flat.A white wood with blackwood stringers would look quite choice maybe I might have a go
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On 4/12/1999 nev
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jon have you bombed the steepest hill in the southern hemisphere?
Moxon Timbers,Hull Rd,Mt Manganui may help in this verneer your after.the Kaimai Cruiser has indy trux{the widest avaliable}& 70mm krytonics wheels.the vertical lamination is like a table top is done.
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On 4/12/1999
tc
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The best thing to put between the layers of wood, would be something that is very elastic and that has great"memory" - the ability to return to it's earlier shape. Aluminum I believe has pretty lousey memory. Once it is bent, it is bent. I think that;s where the lightweight carbon fibers come in - or some sort of similar material. Fiberglass itself has good memory but is prone to cracking and breaking. So I think we need to look at snowboard, ski and water ski construction to get the combination right --- they've already dropped a ton in R&D and we don't need to duplicate their efforts.
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On 4/12/1999 Mike
wrote in from
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Would you suggest maybe running a sheet of thing guage
alluminium? Or don't you think thats a good idea? I realy
want to stay away from concave and and a kick tail. What
would be the best thing to put between the two plys of wood?
I'm sure i'll end up using 'glass but what would be better?
Thanks again for all the help!
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On 4/11/1999 jon
wrote in from
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you need a mould to be able to achieve the concave shape and to be able to bend up the kicker. If you leave the board flat the board can flex a lot more but strength is decreased. The concave shape gives the board more strength and increases torsional stability.
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On 4/11/1999
Chis
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Actually no glass goes on the eges you eather finish them or leave them naked
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On 4/11/1999 Mike
wrote in from
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WOuldn't it make more sense to shape it then add the exterior
'glass so you have glass on the edges too? or can you just
add the glass to the edges later? THanks for all the other help
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On 4/11/1999 vbcv
wrote in from
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Why do you need a mold? What are you molding. You're just sandwiching fiberglass between wood. All you need are some good wood clamps. Remember, you make the sandwich and then later lay on the exterior glass before shaping the board. Essentially you end up with a composite rectangle that you take to a bandsaw/router/sander later. It's essential you get the dryest, straightest and tight grained wood you can find.
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On 4/11/1999 Jon
wrote in from
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One way to save your kickers when stopping is to take a break pad from a car and screw it under the kicker. They seem to last quite well and seem to reduce speed if you like doing the odd manual at high velosity.
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On 4/10/1999 Mike
wrote in from
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Should i lay 'glass resin on one ply and sandwich while
its wet? And would i need a mold for this or not? Thanks
for the other info!
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On 4/10/1999 vbcv
wrote in from
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Carbon fiber is great if you can find a good source. I've made blanks by sandwiching fiber glass/epoxy between two layers of 3/16th baltic birch ply. And then lay two on the bottom and one on top. Or you can experiment with 1/4" full width and run a quarter inch four inch wide beam underneath. This could help tremendously with torsional stiffness. I've done it with short feestyle boards. Never had there been a lighter and more responsive deck until it got run over.
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