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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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custom old school deck
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On 3/25/2007 Jake
wrote in from
United States
(65.190.nnn.nnn)
I hope this link or pic works, I have never tried this before
here is one of my own custom boards
Sterling skateboard pendant with sapphires and yes the wheels roll
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Jake's project
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On 3/24/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jake, the angled nose on the Landy's is an old idea of mine, taken from using Waterskis as the basis for a deck (so, likely you'll find pre-'77 up-turned-nosed boards that'll pre-date my woodshop-in-the-basement days). Bozi longboards did it best (no slam on Landyatchz!) with a wedge-nosed pinner a few years back, and they picked 15 degrees of front wedge (like my DH rockered-S-camber deck, which Jeff was impressed with enough to borrow from). I feel that 8 degrees is enough, and that's due to the relative lack of 'stable' trucks now. It's easy enough to do, just use a woodsplitter's wedge in the press-up (woodsplitter's wedges are found at better chainsaw stores, used to break bigger chunks of wood with a maul into kindle). You'll need to create a stepped-up section to the press mold to accomodate the extra thickness of the wedged blocks, or cut a mold-form piece that takes up the extra thickness. So, the upturned nose is do-able, but will take some extra thought on your part in regards to the pressing and pre-pressing lay-up.
As for dropping the front, and not doing so at the rear, you need to consider truck/wheel heights, or you have a board that's always in a 'nose-down' attitude. My S-cambered DH deck did alleviate that some (not a drop-thru, btw), but it still requires unequal amounts of risers front and rear, as the nose sits lower by 1/2"
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nic
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On 3/24/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
yeah the dimensions are 40"x10", and i dont know what wheelbase.
the trucks are actually force R7s, which i bought black, but otherwise are pretty similiar to randals.
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top mount
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On 3/24/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
should be possible, it would be more like spacers around the boltsunder the baseplate corners,surface area(pads or strips)would do very little since everything is hanging,when ridden. Why not drop the back too? 11 ply 60 inch,should be plenty flexy, if the wood is really thick,say 1 inch, i'm concerned that you got non-multi ply, i think 5/8 multiply is already 11 ply 3/4 may be 13 ply.Phrazing in that landyachts lit. seems a bit off,calling the trucks on a complete board "top mount" means the trucks are mounted to the top of the board,"bottom mount trucks" is more accurate but a bit redundant,"bottom mount board", is even stranger, the trucks are generally considered smaller and subjected to the board. It's like saying that you press the wheels onto the bearings,slide the axles through the bearings,screw the baseplate onto the 3/8x24 nut,slide the board over the mounting hardware........turning the ladder while holding onto the light bulb.
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re herbn
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On 3/24/2007 jake
wrote in from
United States
(65.190.nnn.nnn)
The top mount phrase is from the landyachtz site, they say that it is when the board is mounted on top of the trucks. I am just make my own and working with the wood I got because I don't have the $ to buy all the decks I want. I am making an 11 ply 60" modified pintail. I want it drop-thru in the front for easier pushing but
wedge it also so it turns easier and make it that long so it has some flex with it being 11 ply. Landyachtz has some boards with up turned nose for easier turning and I don't have a press to do that. I can't say I know about the geometry other than what I read about it on the web and what other people are doing. What do you think?
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cam
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On 3/23/2007 nic
wrote in from
United States
(65.44.nnn.nnn)
WoW!!! thats a nice deck makes me want to make my own now. what are the specs on that, looks kinda small? are those painted randals?
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re jake
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On 3/22/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
top mount and dropthrough. i think they're the same thing, i think, if there's a difference it's slight, like flush mount drop through, sinking the baseplate into the top of the deck instead of having the baseplate be a bump on top,slightly higher. Having a drop through/top mount in the front and a regular bottom mount rear would make pushing a bit easier and give you a bit more leverage for turning in back,making the back of the template narrower,would sort of even out the leverage. The angled deck simulates sort of a wedge pad type of ride,the front is "dewedged" and the back is wedged(steeper),no one does that ,not much anyway. I guess a bottom mount randal dh in the back and a drop through r2 in front,may work pretty nice.
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another board
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On 3/22/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
yeah thanks PSR, i am starting a new one soon. its gonna be a board for tight slalom, probably 25'x8', with a 17.5' wheelbase, with about an inch of material between the trucks and the end of the board.
im thinking about giving it a camber of about 18mm, the board will be a little bit flexy also.
does anyone have any ideas to make this board better?
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Cam's homemade
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On 3/21/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
That's a nice looking ride! :-D
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drop-thru in front
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On 3/21/2007 jake
wrote in from
United States
(65.190.nnn.nnn)
I am making a 60 inch pintail longboard and I was wondering if anybody has tried tried to make a drop-thru in front but top mount in back and how it would ride.
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my new board!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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On 3/21/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
heres a little project I have just finished, and am currently testing.
its 12ply with epoxy glass, and a carbon layer on the bottom.
its a really good board for just cruisin, its a little to flexy for bombing hills though.
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new era
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On 3/17/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
well, for me anyway. I've been doing alot of non-skateboard,non-bicycle,for money, machine work,bagel oven parts,nothing to exciting,but steel,iron ,tough stuff,up graded my lathe with a new tool post amd got a bunch of new cutters and stuff for lathe and milling machine. But more importantly,machining is sort of like a muscle and it's been getting a workout. Today was a day after snow day and i was expecting the store thing to be way boring,so "lets make some baseplates", i've had these hangers mostly done since like summer,I've also had this idea for spliting the baseplate in two and putting half of it in the deck, gluing it in,i've had this .125 7075 t6 stock and a treatment kit to make it epoxyable,so i'll put a channel in a piece of birch ply and make a thin pocket so the pivot/kingpin part of the base interlocks with the board,4 m5 bolts are gonna hold the parts together,the pivot/kingpin part is amde from a 1.0 x1.0 7075 barstock, there's a hole between the pivot and the kingpin i'll make a shouldered sleeve that pressfits in there and goes through the board,for more overlap.Things went really fast(for handmade stuff)lots of other new ideas for the pivot and the kingpin, interlocking stuff,safety inspite of lightness and smallness.
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Post catalogue
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On 3/11/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Heck Herbn, by now, you've got enough stuff up on here to fill a full chapter of said catalogue!! It's always entertaining to see what concept you've worked out, ridden, and moved on past. If you ever team up with C.Chaput and Geezer-X, you guys would turn skateboarding on it's ear!!
But I digress; We don't need more 'catagories' really, but rather an archive index that eases the use of the Search function into a more fluid-but-organized grouping of sub-topics. I can't even recall how many times I've said here "Search for yada-yada" to better explain all the points of view that have popped up on these pages. I hope Adam is at least protecting the site well enough that it'll be here as a historical reference in the future. Time flys by, too fast it seems, but there are those who have brought out some great feats, ideas, and shared the stoke, and those people here deserve to have their thoughts kept alive. Electronic media like this has a way of fading out if not deliberately preserved. Of course, having had access to this place for almost a decade has made my life as a skateboarder So Much richer.. I couldn't possibly pay Adam back for the priveledge of being involved in this nexus.
I'm definately not Complaining...
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cataloge of posts
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On 3/11/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
they should just have a list of posts that you can click on, the snowboard one should be on there, the wedge pad one, the i made a board out of home supermarket "birch ply" and it flexs to much,abec question ,on there,havn't seen the frontside back side questions/mis statements in a while,oh yeah ,concave and kicktails/warping,oh well,post on.
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Snowboard-board
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On 3/9/2007 Sven
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Well, I made a board out of a snowboard, so I had somewhere to put my Randal 180s and Krypto 80mms. It is faaaar too flexy. I will post pictures when it is strengthened
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drop thru template
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On 3/7/2007
Daniel M.
wrote in from
United States
(68.212.nnn.nnn)
I have the template for the drop-thru design saved to my flashdrive which is missing at the moment, but when i find it ill post it.
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Drop-Deck
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On 3/4/2007
Geo
wrote in from
United States
(24.8.nnn.nnn)
I know this has been covered on this forum, but I am looking for information and templates to make my Bozi MBII into a drop deck. There used to be info on CC's website and I have tried to e-mail him. Does any one have templates to make Randall II into a drop deck. Any instructions or experience would be helpful. -Geo
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graphics
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On 3/4/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
Hey, how can I put graphics on my board? Can I use transfer paper, which is the stuff they use to put pictures on t-shirts? If so can I glass over the top of the transfer paper?
Does anyone have any experience doing this kinda thing?
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herbn's boards
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On 2/28/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
herbn, sounds like you ard doing some pretty cool stuff.
Got any pictures or even a homepage where we can see all your boards?
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tape is cloth,i think
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On 2/28/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
tape is just cloth preshaped into a narrow width,i guess it doesn't have fraid edges like if you cut cloth into a thin strip with scissors. i make dh /carving boards and don't care about concave,so last couple of boards have just been birch multiply with inlaid stinger/beams of unplied hardwood,and carbon cloth in the center wedged under the beams. I used to make full vertical laminations, my first homemade was two different vertical laminations with kevlar between them and s glass on top and bottom with .063 carbon rods inlaid in the surface,my boards have gotten simplier over time, that first board probabely had around 150 dollars in raw materials in it, i used strips of aircraft spruce in the mix ,with other cool contrasting hardwood,real purty,to complicated , to expensive.
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Carbon Confusion
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On 2/28/2007
Paul G
wrote in from
United States
(198.151.nnn.nnn)
Aaron/Herbn,
Are you guys talking about Carbon Fiber (CF) Tape or Cloth? I am trying to understand how you guys are using CF. I have never pressed a board, but I have vacuum bagged a few.
I figure if you are pressing a board you could sandwich the carbon fiber between layer of your wood ply, only if you are using epoxy glue and not woodglue like the roarokit(sp?) uses. I don't think woodglue & CF would create a good bond with wood ply. Make sure you are using a good face mask when cutting CF. If CF geting in your lungs it will never disolve.
good luck,
Paul
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carbon
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On 2/28/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i like carbon,generally i think fiberglass is a waste of time by comparison. I find that it soaks resin up much better,it just sort of runs through the glass nice and quick ,much less chance of dry spots. What i've done to avoid trimming the carbon is; my boards have stingers,inlaid strips of wood running front to back,and i cut the carbon cloth when its dry so it fills the area between the stingers and tucks under,i generally cut the carbon so it ends in the middle of the trucks(lengthwise) i generally put down a layer or two of scraps, centered in the board, under that sheet. On top cut a piece that stays away from the edges, i generally dont want to cut or sand laminated carbon.
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Aaron Mc and CARBON
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On 2/27/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
yeah man carbon is great stuff that will stiffen a deck much mre than fiberglass. i recently used carbon on one of my boards, and i just put it on like regular fiberglass and trimmed off the excess carbon when the resin had gelled.
beware, carbon is harder to work with than fiberglass, so make sure you know what you are doing or else you might waste the carbon and in the process ruin your board.
hope this helps good luck.
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Carbon Fibre In Deck, How?
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On 2/25/2007 Aaron Mc
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.138.nnn.nnn)
I'm Making a 180cm (huge deck) board, I got some carbon fibre to put in the stress areas, but how do I slap it in there? It's still in a "floppy" state, does it stiffin with the wood in the Press, or do i have to condition it?
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modified race tracks
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On 2/12/2007
c
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
hey im running a pretty tight budbet for my new slalom board and have decided to get tracker RTS/RTX 106mm combo. is there any way i can modify these trucks to make them perform better. can i face the hangers on a lathe?? can i remove the axle and replace it with an 8mm axle?if so how do i do this??
has anyone had any success doing this and if so can they please post some photos??
anyway thanks..
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