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| Street Luge (1208 Posts)
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Street Luge Info |
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One other option
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On 8/25/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Oh another idea I talked about that might be a good way to go if I am sticking with 4 wheels... What about 85mm speedvents? Big wheels, a bit more like a cross between the flywheel and the bigzig (offset like a bigzig but larger and with a hub like a flywheel)... I beleive they are available in 75a or 79a...
I could do either one (79a would probably be lots of grip, 75a would also) or maybe do a split duro? With standup usually they go more grip in the back because thats what tends to drift but most 6 wheel luges have the extra grip up front so I could do like 75a speedvents in front and 79a in back...?
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Wheels
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On 8/25/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Sweet I think Ill go with 10mm axles and 83mm 75a flys...
You talk about release... I used to do standup so I know having a good release when entering a drift is important... and even more important is how smooth it regrips! But do people drift luges? How is it done and when is it used... For me as I start Ill probably just be braking enough before corners to take them easily without pushing myself to hard... Seems like cornering is one of the more dangerous aspects of luging anyways and with only 4 wheels I'd hate to push my limit.
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wheels
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On 8/25/2007
wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
stick with 83mm flys
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Axles/wheels
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On 8/25/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jordan I'd say go with 10mm axles. The downside is ths: Bearing availability. Ceramic or uber-high-tech 608 bearing will be faster, but the axles will bend at some point, you just won't know 'when'. 10mm axles will have a good bit of longer life, especially on rougher roads.
Which stick better? This isn't a 'clean cut' answer, but the question isn't totally fair, kinda falls under "it depends on"... Um, in slalom Zig-Zags are definately better. Flys are Faster, not that Big Zigs are 'slow'. But, Flys have a smoother 'release' when their grip is exceeded, and in 75A (or 78A), the Flys will come pretty close to 83A Zigs in overall grip. Ride quality will be pretty similar, slightly 'plusher' for the Zigs, as the smaller core puts more 'thane between you and the road. Now, go down to 80A Zigs, and the Flys will only have the speed advantage, and the Zigs will have a better grip and ride.
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Wheels...
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On 8/25/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
So what do you guys honestly would grip better, 83a bigzigs or 75a 83mm flywheels?
Whichever one will handle corners better, I will go with... And Ill design the luge around them...
And if I stick with the bigzigs should I go with 8mm truck axles and my favorite bearings, rockets, or should I get 10mm (incase I use bigger wheels in the future or just to be safe) axles and the landyachtz bearings that come with them....
Thanks
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Woodie addenda
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On 8/22/2007 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
83A Zigs are fine for most roads. If on rougher pavement, go softer, both for grip, and ride comfort. Don't ride sub-80A on HOT (95*F+) days! They'll Goo.
For most riding, the narrow-tail would be fine, but knowing that North + East of you are some amazing hilly roads (that you'll grow into), I'd pick the wider rounded tail. It's better too in tight quarters, as your wheels can't easily get impinged upon by others. The seat pan, I've no comment, something you'll have to figure out as you build.
Urethane glue because, unlike 'white' wood glue, it's very moisture resistant, and unlike epoxy, dosen't need mixing nor is it likely to get brittle over a few years, and a little goes a long ways if you trowel/brush it on.
Yup, bushings come second, after get the ride height/alingment settled. Wedging may not even be needed, but if you do that, you've already got it figured right, just sort out the angles by what rides best.
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First Luge
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On 8/22/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
So for a first luge, mostly recreational some racing would you recommend the narrow or wide back?
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Cool
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On 8/22/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
So I'd be better off with 3/4" seat pan, 3/4" front and back and like 1/2" spacers?
Ill probably do that and just use wheel wells and the bigzigs (75mm zigs)... Will 83a zigs be grippy enough though???
And yeah Ill be sure to test it well, doubt I will test it in stages though Ill probably build the entire thing and then run it nice and easy at first...
Why urethane glue? Epoxy or wood glue not strong enough?
Bushings Ill be playing around with a lot but I am going to stick with the 57/45 degree angling (front and back) most likely... I have played around with wedging on my DH board and cant feel a ton of difference, I think the bushing choices front and back effect the ride a LOT more... I mostly just use less wedge in back so I can use harder bushings without reducing lean.
Thanks guys!
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the woodie
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On 8/22/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, the 'stringer' concept is pretty sound, but may make final assembly a bit ugly just in lining up the bolt-thru holes. The sled won't 'perform' well, as you'll have little cornering leverage (no pan), and the sled itself will twist (this is one reason why the slab over the wheels is wide, the other is to keep your legs off the wheels). If you go this route, focus on wheel position, truck alignment, ride height, but don't go on very fast/tech hills, yet. If the sled feels fairly solid and is steerable, tracks straight, then go back, add the pan, and upper over-the-wheel pieces, handholds, seat padding, and check for the need of wheelwells (or not).
You'll notice in the pic of Lott's designs there are two rear set-ups, wide, + narrow. The wide is better for cornering, safer if you've got a ponytail sticking outa the back of yer helmet, and nicer to other racers in close quarters. The skinny tail will let just a hint of deck twist occur, which helps keep the sled in line on bumpier road surfaces (the rear steers just a little less), oh, and you'll soak your collar in the wet with the skinny tail...
After you've got it together, no wheel-rub, no handhold issues, with a comfy pan/seating, run it again, work up to speed in increments. If ANYTHING feels odd/loose/wobbly, stop, inspect the whole sled. Repeat this over three days or so of riding. Take notes (literally) of any probs. After you've 'settled in' and the sled is running o.k., then worry about improving the steering feel with bushings/wedges/wheel options. Your choice of wheels is fine for now (though I was serious about doing shakedown runs on smaller, +- 70mm wheels), Zigs and Flys are great wheels! Be patient enough to not 'just go' and bomb uber-fast (well, not for very long,anyway).
Lastly, once you've got this thing built, use urethane glue (clamp-set to dry) between any plys pieces that won't need to dissassemble for transport. The added glue, plus bolts, will make for a very solid sled.
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Wheels
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On 8/21/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
If you guys think the stringer truck mount idea will work I may just go with the 83mm flys to start! I could even do a 1" stringer (2 1/2" sheets) and 1/4" top... For added strength, wood quality (two different pieces of wood) and more truck lift... Nice thing is the seat pan is always mounted underneath this so it wont make the board any higher... And the leg rest is always just getting higher so the board wont get any lower! (and bottom out)...
Seems like a good idea in theory, any problems I am not seeing with it?
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Thanks
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On 8/21/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
I think Ill start with my 75mm bigzigs... 83a lemon bigzigs should work well no? I mean they slide a tiny but with a hard carve but for luging it should be a lot of grip...
Is it really going to take that much time to tweak everything I mean I dont see myself changing much... Front truck goes between butt and mid thigh, back will be adjusted for proper weight distribution. I have a 57 degree front truck and a 45 degree back...
What sort of things will I likely tweak and how will I know if its necessary or not?
Wheelwells sounds good also... Or maybe Ill do a wide like 1/4" piece of wood with a 3/4" by like 5-6" wide plywood stringer under it... Truck mounts on stringer, feet (and shoulders in the back) rest on the 1/4" piece of wood, and that gives you like 3/4" risers...
Could probably run the big wheels with that setup, but I think, unless you guys dont think they will be good, Ill still use the 75mm bigzigs for now.... I like them a lot, just hope they grip well...
Oh and should I go with 8mm or 10mm axles?
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Wood Luge build
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On 8/21/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, instead of cutting large areas of wood away, do this instead; Build the sled, mount it up with trucks, then fit it with smaller wheels (like the 70mm Flashbacks/Grippens/ZigZags or maybe HotSpots/Avalons) to run it at first. This will let you feel out the truck placement, alignment, Ground clearance, and seating/handhold fit. These things are important to get the feel of, so expect to run the sled a few times while sorting this out.
Then, set the trucks very loose or with soft bushings and the big wheels; Don't 'ride' it, but do lean it hard both Left+Right at, say, walking speed. Note just where your wheels rub. Now, take the trucks off, and get a handheld belt sander (using the round end of the sander,,) to carve out the wheelwells just where you'll need them. This is good down thru maybe 4 plys, easy and quick, too.
If you need to go deeper than 4-5 plys of that cabinet-grade hardwood ply, then seriously consider a good wood-chiselling set to get deep enough. With a chisel, it's good practice the mark your cuts beforehand, and 'nibble' down on each cut with light blows of the hammer. Chip out the hole that's rough-cut, then use a drill-mounted rotary grindstone or (if you can find one) a round power-rasp to smooth it out.
The idea is not to have to compromise the decking strength, nor 'back-up' and dis-assemble the layers of wood (although making it in sections can make travelling easier). Anything you cut into will take away strength, and cutting wheel-wells before you've got it all together might leave you with axles where you don't really want them. Also, while getting 'low' is ideal, don't be shy about using thin risers (or wedges) between the decking and trucks. I've even used just 2 or 4 'faucet washers' to angle or slightly raise a truck on 6-wheelers to be certain all the wheels gripped evenly, or to tune the steering angles a nudge. Getting rid of wheelbite is a big concern, moreso than being at the 'optimum' lowered ride height. Watch too that your handholds don't get in the way of the wheels, nor put your hand under the sled's pan in cornering.
O.K., nuff stuff for now.
Let us know how it goes.
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Street Luge
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On 8/21/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Guys...
http://www.skateluge.com/images/strtlg02.jpg
Thats the luge I am going to make, with the back design of the luge in the back of the pick (wide tail end, not a skinny one like the front one)...
The wheels look like strikers...
So yeah 83a bigzigs ok? Good grip, and no bite?
I want a luge with crazy grip... No worries about slidin'... But I wont be pushing TO insanely.
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?
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On 8/21/2007 wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
luge or buttboard?
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Wheel sizing
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On 8/21/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Yeah the Rogers pegless is awesome but I am making a wood luge ;)...
So yeah I was going to use 83mm wheels but they are not looking like they will fit (wheel bite)... because its basically a flat skateboard deck.... Not even a little concave to give the wheels more room... One idea would be cut outs all the way threw the deck where the wheels go, and then like some plastic (clear) recessed lexon or something, so you can see the wheels and they can go slightly into the board to prevent bite...
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wheels
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On 8/21/2007 wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
centerset wheels you can get more life out of them. you can rotate.
the gumball machine was designed for 76mm wheels. my personal favorite is the rogers brothers peggless
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Correction
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On 8/20/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Meant offset not sidset...
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Trucks
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On 8/20/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
I am starting with 2 trucks.. and 75a 83mm flywheels are somewhat grippy, or would I be better off with side set 75a speedvent 85mm's... Pretty grippy!
Anyways... The gumball machine plans are not like most, just dimensions...
And I'd rather make a real simple board like the one Lott did... Its the first or second pic in his luge construction page... Its all wood with grip tape and metal angled handles.... Almost just looks like a dropped buttboard... Its peggless, simple and seems solid...
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jorden
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On 8/20/2007
wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
i would run with at least six wheels. you will understand when you start to courner at speed and need the traction... the gumball machine is a amazing board. its like a buttboard on crack.
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gumball machine
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On 8/20/2007 hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
from silverfish,
-----
here is a quality wood luge, somewhat like the one you posted the pic of.
i don't feel like doing the board code for the links and pics though. like ky boy said you must use some decent wood with real ply's. the plywood and bolts they sell at home depot and lowes are crap.
darren lotts gumball machine.
http://www.abec11.com/images/gbmachine3.jpg
here are the pronged t-nuts ky boy was talking about
http://www.allproducts.com/fastener/fu-yeh/Product-2004915143018-s.jpg
here are the plans for the gumball machine
http://www.darrenlott.com/gumballmachine/
not in the pans is the wooden spine you can see in the pictures that runs from truck to truck. you can see it in this picture
http://www.abec11.com/images/gbmachine2.jpg
good luck and be safe, and when you finish the board stand on it and bounce it like crazy to see if it will snap or crack while riding. better to break when your going no where then when you're going 50.
edit: don't forget the grade 8 bolts.
Ben: a buttboard is a flat piece of wood that can't be longer than 48" and can't be wider than 12". There can not be a drop in the board (like your subsonic has, at least if it's the subsonic i'm thinking of). drop through trucks are ok, as long as your minimum ride height is ok with whatever organization you are racing in. but if you're not racing don't sweat this kind of stuff and just have a blast on whatever is most comfortable to you.
sean c
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Gumball Machine
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On 8/19/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Cant seem to find the plans for it, anybody know where they are located at?
I am going to consider doing a 2 truck version but most likely Ill just use it as a reference for my build.
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Luge 4 Taylor
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On 8/19/2007
AJ Powell
wrote in from
Canada
(66.131.nnn.nnn)
my sponsor, STREET-MISSILE, makes lightweight sturdy and affordable streetluges here in Canada. Made in the upper Laurentian Hills of Quebec by Fast-Freddy Desjardins. His luges are probably the only available on the market for less than 400$ Canadian (brand spankin' new). You would'nt have to pay Duty Fees either. The 2007 models are made with very thin airplane aluminum and specially bent in areas to maintain a stiff pan. send me an email if your interested; alan_j_powell@hotmail.com
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where can i buy a streetluge?
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On 8/19/2007 Taylor
wrote in from
Canada
(68.145.nnn.nnn)
i am currently looking to buy a streetluge rightnow and i am wondering where i could posssibly get one. i really like the pegged rogers bros but i don't know if they still make them. does anybody know or am i out of lick. i live in calgary canada and streetluge is really just starting off here as there has been only 2 competitions here for it. anyone maybe have a used one or something
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Pegless
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On 8/18/2007 Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
I'd still like reasons why pegless is better but I have been looking at pics of riders on pegless and I think Ill go for it... For simplicity as well...
3/4" thick seat pan, calf rest (also front truck mount) and back truck mount with 1/2" risers inbetween...
Like one of these http://www.skateluge.com/images/strtlg02.jpg
Any ideas what the bumpers and handles are?
Also how should I adjust the dimensions of a board like this one to me? For example where should the cut-outs for handles be... How long should the seatpan be relative to my body...
And most important how low on my legs should the calf support go? Seems like to much gives more support but less leg movement (for braking etc...)
Thanks
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luge
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On 8/18/2007
wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
stick with the pegless. 83mm 75a-78a wheels. the safest and handles best.
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