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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 2/11/1999 Dave
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Great comments Chris:
I snapped the first one I made in half! After about the first hour...
It's the little amount of money that needs to be spent on the ski's themselves that is so attractive. And some of those old ski's look REAL nice.
I'm making a board out of fiberglass right now. It will have a great amount of spring... hopefully you should be able to pump it up to speed real well... I'm using a spring steel stringer, I doubt it will break.
Dave
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On 2/10/1999
Chris
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Here's my latest waterski longboard story.
It all started about 6 months ago, when I found a pair of freestyle waterskis at a thrift store for fifteen bucks. The things were beautiful--all hardwood stringers and at 42" by 9 1/4" wide with a gently sloped nose--so I figure I don't even have to cut them down. And at $7.50 a ski, I couldn't even buy the wood to build them for that price.
Now the way these are built is they have two layers of hardwood stringers, about 1/4 inch, laminated together to make the 1/2 thick ski. Where I'm going with this is they have a lot of strength going lengthwise, but because all of the grain is going one direction, and there are only two relatively thick plys, they don't have very much strength going widthwise. Bear this in mind as I continue.
What I was going for was sort of a hybrid freestyle longboard, so spent a fair amount of time playing around with different truck and wheel combinations, so that the trucks and wheels would be almost exactly the same width as the deck. This way I could work 1980s tricks like rail walking etc. I figured that since the wood was so nice looking, I'd take my time and do it up right. I pull the bindings off and and buy mohagany-colored wood putty to fill the holes. I go out and buy sandpaper and borrow my dad's sander. Then I buy more sandpaper because we have a new puppy and she likes to chew up sandpaper. Stupid dog. I had just got a router for Christmas, so I made up a template to cut some wheel wells. (By the way, this is a really great way to do wheel wells. Way better than grinding away with a sanding bit on a drill motor, which is what I had always done previously.) I even put a graphic on the bottom by cutting off the back cover of a Mary Fleener comic, rounding the corner, so that it would be less likely to peel up, gluing it to the bottom of the deck with spray adhesive, and varnishing over it to protect it. By the time I was done, I'd probably spent 12 or 15 hours sanding, cutting wheel wells, vanishing, grip taping, etc.
It turned out great, not perfect, mind you. The finish could have been a little nicer, because in some spots, I didn't get all of the original vanish off before I revarnished, so there were some spots that looked a little darker than other spots. Still it looked pretty good. So I get the thing done on a Sunday and take it down to the beach, where I usually ride freestyle to try it out. The board had quite a bit of rocker, which made it seem too low to the ground at first, but after about 20 minutes, I hardly noticed it. I'd been riding it for about an hour and was doing and old school trick, walk the dog, when I heard a "CRACK." I picked up the board and looked at it and couldn't see anything wrong, and I tried to convince myself that it wasn't the board, but my knee or something. I go back to where I start and pick up the board again and sure there was a crack on the top ply of the deck and starting at the tail and going to where the truck mounting bolts are. I check the bottom ply and there is a crack about half that length on the bottom ply as well. I figure that the board is going to break eventually anyway, so I may as well keep riding it. After about ten minutes, I look down and the crack is about a third the length of the board and you can see it getting wider as you apply pressure to the side of the board. I decided to give it up, because I didn't want the thing to break completely and have to walk back to the car. I rode it very carefully back to the car, went home, pulled the trucks and wheels off, and threw the deck into the rafters in the garage, because I didn't have the heart to throw it away.
So what's the moral of this story. I don't know. Maybe it's that if you are making a board out of an old waterski, don't automatically assume that it is going to make a killer deck. It might, but then again, it might break in the first hour. Maybe the moral is that if you have a pair, slap the first one together with a minimum of effort. Then see how it rides. If it works well, thank the longboard gods and make second one into the deck of your dreams. Later,
Chris
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On 2/9/1999 eggman
wrote in from
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It was wood and old at that. Our neighbor tried to "fix" it because it was all cracked and stuff (peeling apart). He squished some glue in there and clamped it. The wood is old, and when you drag the tail, it kind of messes up the ski (the layers peel apart), but it is fun. I think fiberglass would be harder to work with.......
Later late
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On 2/9/1999 Dave
wrote in from
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Eggman - Did you use a wood ski? or fiberglass? I was looking at fiberglass skis down at a new/used sporting goods shop, and the thickness seemed to vary more. Not sure on useing one of those...
Anyone out there have the scoop on narrower boards/wide trucks vs. wide board/ wide trucks , etc?
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On 2/8/1999 eggman
wrote in from
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Yeah, Me and my roomate made one of those a few weeks ago and put some original Randals on it. We ride it with the upturned part going foward, instead of using it as a kick-tail. It is fun for sure and only cost 12 bucks (to get it gripped and drilled at the local shop). I want to see how it handels with some exkates.....
Later late.
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On 2/8/1999 Dave
wrote in from
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I made a board out of an old 11ply waterski. Turned it around for the kicktail. It was originaly 5 1/2 ft. 4 ft wheel base. 8 in wide. (whoa) Broke it. To flexy.
Shortened the other ski down to under 5 ft. With a 3 ft wheel base. Much more solid. Just a slight flex to it. Put some 183mm trucks on it.
Very cheap. Found the ski in my parents basement.
I was thinking about finding a fiberglass ski, and trying a longer wheel base. Anyone out there have any homemade board stories?
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On 2/2/1999 marc
wrote in from
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I am trying to lay out a deck on a cad system at work becaues I am bored, can someone give me the specs for the truck (new and old school) patterns.
thanks
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On 1/25/1999 Rich
wrote in from
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For clear deck grip get to the hardware shop and find the outdoor patio and steps paint section. Somewhere they will have this fine grit you put in paint to get a nonslip surface on steps. In Oz it is made by BERGER PAINTS and called true grip. It looks like very fine glass (wear a mask when pouring it) but when you put it in the paint or varnish it gels up and then sets rock hard as the varnish dries. It leaves a rougher feel than new school grip tape but you can adjust how much you put in to get a rougher or smoother effect. used with clear epoxy or varnish it is completely see through ! I vary the amount I use on the deck to get a rougher surface where I need it and a smoother grip elsewhere. It is better than the silica sand I have used. If you use the sugar method then do not bother washing it off, just varnish over it again with another coat and it is OK. The grit idea works but is not see through and is very hard wearing on the shoes/hands/ trousers etc !
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On 1/25/1999
matt highison
wrote in from
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USE SILICA SAND INSTEAD OF THE SUGAR OR PEBBLE METHOD
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On 1/22/1999
kilimanjaro
wrote in from
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Hey marco,
there are two ways to do this that I know of: The first one is a technique windsurfing board shapers employ. You finish the deck with something like epoxy or polyester. Then you throw sugar on the top before the epoxy hardens and wait till it is hard. After that you have to rinse the board down with water. This will dissolve most of the sugar, thus leaving a finely structured grippy surface. If you do this right I think it should give you a surface that feels pretty close to grip tape. The only disadvantage I can think of here is that it might be hard to keep this surface clean, specially if you use small sugar kernels.
The other possibility gives you rougher, easier to clean surface. You have to embed small pebbles into the clear resin finish on the top of the board. You’ll get the best result if you use sharp egged pebbles and I think white quartz would look best. I’ve seen this method used on offroad boards.
If you want to do it the safe way I recommend trying both methods on scrap wood and then deciding what to use on your real deck.
Hope this helps you.....
later Kilimanj
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On 1/21/1999
casey
wrote in from
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i have a question for the dude that got the greengrew 60" crewzer. is the deck ply, or is it solid? if you know can you please tell me what kind of wood it is made out of? and if it is ply, what ply.your information would be greatly appreciated.
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On 1/12/1999 kilimanjaro
wrote in from
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Hey all you CAD-crazy boardshapers out there you should check
out a program called Shape 3D at:
http://www.awacs.com/Shape_3d/sh3dus.htm
The program is intended for designing surfboards, but can
probably also be used to make plans for your next landsurfer.
later Kilimanj
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On 1/5/1999
marc
wrote in from
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Can anyone help me on how do to a clear coat with traction for the top of my new deck.
thanks
marc
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On 1/1/1999
Scheckey
wrote in from
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Found a page that helps you build your own board the old school way.
http://www.skullskates.com/roots.htm
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On 12/21/1998 TC
wrote in from
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Also for making templates you can do a very similar approach via your computer. What I do is create a template in a drawing program such as Adobe Illustrator or freehand. I usually create a good general shape, then I tweak one edge of it. I then take that half, duplicate it, flip it, and join it to the original edge. This makes a complete outline - I am also sure to keep a center line in my pattern. I then print it out, rub pencil on the back and then tape to a board and trace over the outline. This tranfers the pencil lead to the board which I then hack out with a jigsaw. The good part about the computer is that I can scale it, change the proportions, etc. in the blink of an eye. Later
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On 12/8/1998
Jay
wrote in from
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thanx fer the info im still just a bit shaky on how to make
the trucks square thanx though!!!
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On 12/7/1998 Tannis
wrote in from
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Just a suggestion on deck symetry, draw and cut a template that represents half the deck as if split from tail to nose down the middle. Make this template out of masonite, easily cut and shaped up on a disc or belt sander. Using a straight edge draw a center line on your wood. Use the template to draw the out line of one side, then flip the template over the center line to draw the other side. Your board will be right on the money! Use a square to establish the truck mounting holes, square off the center line. This works great and your boards will be perfectly symetrical!
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On 12/7/1998 Adam
wrote in from
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Jay,
Nothing wobbles more than an old-style truck like Indys. I'd recommend the Randal RII or the Exkate with either the red or green bushings. Both company's links are in our Links page. For your template needs, check out the link to Boardpark at http://www.boardpark.com. They sell templates for $15. If you've ever tried to make a skateboard template (I have) you would know how difficult it is to keep the design perfectly symetrical, not to mention maintaining accurate truck placement.
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On 12/7/1998
Jay
wrote in from
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also im looking for a shape like the sector 9 racing one or the sector 9 stiffy
and im debatin on what trucks to get either the new torsion ones or good old indys
i like goin fast and not gettin speed wobbles and im afraid with the torsion trucks if i lean just a bit i will vear off the road
dont mind the spelling
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On 12/7/1998
Jay
wrote in from
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I'm planning on making a home made deck in my edvanced woods class at school
and I was wondering is someone could send me the plans or point me in the right direction
for plans. Pretty much all I need is a template though.
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On 12/6/1998
Chris
wrote in from
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Check out Mr.M's site if you want to make a board
His site is: http://www2.cruzio.com/~sc58/
Keep it rollin' Chris-
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On 12/2/1998 lee
wrote in from
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If you need a practicaly unbreakable really flexi and light material to make your own board try cutting up an old snowboard. They rule! I made myself a 46" board and I haven't ridden a better bought board.
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On 11/22/1998
Brock
wrote in from
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I would love for someone to tell me how to make graduated
cutouts like in the Cloud 9 and in most of the production
longskates coming out now?> Any information would be great.
Thankx
Brock
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On 11/18/1998 eggman
wrote in from
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Hey Kiddies...
I made a longboard out of an old waterski (as in "nose wheelie"). It is pretty cool, but big. I put an old set of Randals on it with some Route 70's. I want to check it out with my exkates, but have not done it yet. It sure was cheap! (My buddy found the deck behind his garage). I took it down to the local skate shop and they gripped and drilled it for me. Total cost....$13! Not as good as a regular retail board, but the novelity is cool. Ok, later!
Oh yeah, Cirrus the skate dog loves pulling the board all over town!
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On 11/16/1998 smalls
wrote in from
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I make longboards at home. But these boards are about 5'6 - 6'5 tall. There big.
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