|
|
|
| Speedboarding (19049 Posts)
|
| Topic |
Speedboarding |
|
Cat tracks
|
|
On 3/26/2001
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Kurt,
He's not kidding about those tracks... they will make your teeth rattle!
If Chris hasn't already called you on the new product, I would love to give them a review... they sound pretty cool... HR
|
|
|
|
|
Petrifide Caterpiler Tracks
|
|
On 3/26/2001 Kurt
wrote in from
(63.232.nnn.nnn)
Hi Chris, Every once in a while there comes allong some FUNNY stuff here. By the way, I got the prototype shock stabilized trucks done. It will be you and IT, or Hugh and it.
|
|
|
|
|
Humble?
|
|
On 3/25/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
I was trying to be humble and not say exactly how well this setup worked but Rooney slipped into the middle of my post(s) and spilled the beans. So now that the cat's out of the bag I can tell you. A 48" x 12" board can win races. And like Rooney, I too cannot remember what kind of wheels I used. I must be getting old.
|
|
|
|
|
...continued
|
|
On 3/25/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
...accidently hit the submit button... anyway, Barrett has cracks and chunks and patches and petrified caterpillar tracks, two right hand hairpins and several tricky chicanes. It's over 2 1/2 minutes long and the legs need to be in good shape to hold a tuck that long with all the G's. I have been having a difficult time braking mongo and then trying to set up for a toeside righthand hairpin (crashing frequently). The asphalt has big oily asphalt patches and cracks and you are alays drifting, skittering and sliding through them with various degrees of control. The correct amount of speed is critical in going into those turns. Because my success rate at braking was such a low percentage, I decided to forget about dragging a foot and decided to do just a little airbraking and set up for the turns by scrubbing a lot of speed early in the turn by forcing a "controlled" slide and recovering through the rest of the turn. My shorter (40" x 10") board with Randal Comp II's just wasn't as wide, long and stable as the board that I call Max. That board is 48" long and 12" wide (the MAXimum allowed) and was running Randal luge trucks which are over 200mm wide. The trucks are dropped through for a nice low CG so the whole thing is long, wide and low. Although my line through the turns we far from perfect, the added wheelbase really helped me to "conquer" the technical turn and recover from near disasters. Herbn's right, roads were made for cars and so you don't need a board that turn on a dime. Max can BARELY pull a u-turn at low speed on a two lane highway, but even the tightest hairpin is more than enough of a radius to easily carve. Big, long, sweeping, controlled carves. I've always loved looongboards but kinda just "followed the leader" when it came to a standard speedboard length. Now I have a very different opinion as to what the future will look like in speedboarding. It's going to be long, wide, low and FAAAAAST.
|
|
|
|
|
oops
|
|
On 3/25/2001 Rooney
wrote in from
(199.182.nnn.nnn)
CHAPUT WINS BARRET !!!!!!!! like I said.
|
|
|
|
|
WOW!
|
|
On 3/25/2001 Rooney
wrote in from
(199.182.nnn.nnn)
CAPUT WINS BARRET! Race for 2nd didnt happen.chaput on 48 by 12 bomber kicked axx memory fading on wheels may need orange juice to remember GH made no excuses.
|
|
|
|
|
Loooongboards
|
|
On 3/25/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
It's 11:00pm on Sunday night and I parked the magic bus after dropping off Waldo and Darren Lott while returning from the Barrett Junction race. More holes in the leathers. More scrapes on both knees and elbows. A bloody knuckle and thumb and all the other assorted little aches and pains from be a 40ish speedboarder. Barrett Junction is a gnarly hill. It's not as fast as some other hills but it is long and treacherous
|
|
|
|
|
360 slide
|
|
On 3/25/2001
hc
wrote in from
(216.227.nnn.nnn)
Hey Manu, what was that link to the 360 slide that you did?
|
|
|
|
|
KEEP THE FUN
|
|
On 3/25/2001
MANU
wrote in from
(193.248.nnn.nnn)
In answer to Craig, do you know my way to prepare miself fro an event?
I SWEAR THAT I NEVER TRAIN OR RIDE BETWEEN EVENTS, i must be honest by saying
i really would like to train more often, but i'm busy with my job .
the other point i wanted to talk about, is winning, i never come at a race
with the need for victory, the first step is to arrive down the hill as safe as possible,
then if you arrive to the finals, maybe you can begin to hope, but i think the
best way is to ride for fun and forget the fame the money the training etc...
But believe me craig, your ranking doesn't make the difference for me, and whatever
happens, you are a great rider !
always sk8 for fun my friends.
|
|
|
|
|
El Elephante De Spiko
|
|
On 3/25/2001 Berto
wrote in from
(209.245.nnn.nnn)
thanks for the tip, i'll go check it out once i have the money.
|
|
|
|
|
speed for berto
|
|
On 3/25/2001 elefante de espiko
wrote in from
(24.4.nnn.nnn)
berto, for starters, you probably dont want to go speedboarding on a cosmic one with stock equipment, your johnson would be in serious peril. second, i've heard of some good speedboarding decks by a small company in san diego called Swell. you should check them out. and to answer your question, NO....................YES!
|
|
|
|
|
bedroom troubles
|
|
On 3/24/2001 Mr. T
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
well i was with my wife at legoland on one of the rides while we were trying to do the hibbidy Jibbidy some kid ssaid "hey... you guys come on.. i mean your at lego land"
and i havent been able to get it up Since.
|
|
|
|
|
Help
|
|
On 3/24/2001 Berto
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
hey, i'm a novice skateboarder and i want to get into speedboarding, so i need you guys to give me some info on some good decks and pieces to make a good board so that i won't ruin my Johnson... my humungoid johnson. so help me please
"...And i was like Emilio!!!"
-Doug and Steve Boutabi
hey OmaR!!
|
|
|
|
|
Tight bends + long cars
|
|
On 3/24/2001 Craig
wrote in from
(196.14.nnn.nnn)
Cars have breaks, wide wheelbase, suspension, grippy tyres!
If they want to take corners fast, they generally have to slide too!!
|
|
|
|
|
long
|
|
On 3/24/2001 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
a long, near 48 inch board should still steer through any corner on a road,roads are after all made for cars. I make my boards 46 inches in case there's some irregularities at the ends of my v-lam sheets.The flex and weight dispersion of a lengthier wheelbase,makes balence and changing your weight distribution around corners more controlable.Ex 50/50 weight distribution makes a board drift equally front and back wheels,back end out slightly is very much desirable,weather you drift those back wheels by weighting on possibly unweighting(hmmmm which is it?)the change in possition will be more subtle and controlable on a longer wheelbase.
|
|
|
|
|
Keep the Fun
|
|
On 3/24/2001 Craig
wrote in from
(196.14.nnn.nnn)
As you can see my big mouth is back, after finally recovering from DHX mania. I got myself so worked up over the bloody event with an obsession for winning, that i spent millions on equipment (ceramics, comp2's etc), forgot to have fun, forget to race properly, and only came 13th, with a rather dissapointing race. I didn't surf for weeks before, forgot how to play my bass and ruined my sleep patterns with all the training sessions. Then I didn't even skate at half my potential when the pressure was on. Since then i haven't been able to touch my speedboard, until this morning when i got hit by a sudden urge to rage the hills. So tomorrow morning we're off to ride the Glen and surrounds, and i'm stoked.
Go off, be competitive, but don't forget what it's all about!
|
|
|
|
|
Long wheelbase
|
|
On 3/24/2001 Craig
wrote in from
(196.14.nnn.nnn)
Hey, let's have more discussion here about LOOONG wheelbases. I have always thought that the direction speedboarding would go, would be to even shorter boards, mainly on technical courses...contrary to what Chris said.
Surely on a technical course a long board would take a long time to get going, so would be a disadvantage picking up speed after the turns. Especially considering you would have to slide a lot around the bends, scrubbing a lot of speed.
I think looongboards would be the bomb on straighter faster courses, but a good 32-35 inch would be better on road like...DHX cape town?!!?
Either way, my next plan is to set up a long deck w drop through trucks, and maybe a metal plate screwed to the bottom for extra weight...sounds a bit bulky, stupid, and irrational, but we might as well try all the extremes and see what happens. This long bomber will be tested out extensively on the Glen(DHX) Cape town.
|
|
|
|
|
Flexi boards/S9 pintail
|
|
On 3/24/2001 Craig
wrote in from
(196.14.nnn.nnn)
Fair enough, a flexi board is not optimal for speedbording, but i rode a 36" flexdex for a year, took it over 90km/h, comfortably, on R2's....and I'm renowned for being an unstable rider.
I can't speak for the cosmic rider, i don't know what it is, but my buddy mikez rode a s9 pintail for a while, and took it to top speeds. He is light though. I rode it a bit, i weigh 70kg, and i thought it was rad for speedboarding.
But note: Mike now rides a Cem Bullet downhill board, and sometimes a roughcut, both of which are serious speedboards. So, if all you have is a flexi s9...don't quite throw it out, they're fine. BUT if you're serious about the sport get a good deck. Note that the Chaput Roughcuts are VERY easy to make, with templates and everything freely available on chris's site.
|
|
|
|
|
my board
|
|
On 3/24/2001
Matt
wrote in from
(204.97.nnn.nnn)
I am now riding a sector 9 pintail with randal speed trucks, i was wondering if this is a good board to use for speed.. so far i havent broken 50mph with this board, but i dont have any problems with it...
|
|
|
|
|
nope
|
|
On 3/23/2001 roger
wrote in from
(198.206.nnn.nnn)
Bill,
Get a new setup! Both the Cosmic 2 (or any other flexy/bouncy deck) and Pivot trucks are terrible for speedboarding, not at all what they are designed for. I would have not go over 30 mph with ether of these.
|
|
|
|
|
Sector 9
|
|
On 3/23/2001 Bill
wrote in from
(209.245.nnn.nnn)
hey, i got a sector 9 cosmic 2 with pivot trucks and i wanted to know how fast is recommended with this type of board and if its any good, i know i've gone about 28 mph or so but i don't have any leathers so i don't really want to opener' up.
|
|
|
|
|
Get it straight
|
|
On 3/23/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Sharky, I use the holes in the baseplate and the centerline drawn on the bottom of the board as God. I use a straight-edge and draw two parallel lines all the way down the deck. Each line is 13/16" (which is half of 1 5/8") from the centerline. These lines are now my new God. When I set the baseplate on the deck and its holes are lined up dead center over the parallel lines then I KNOW that the trucks will be straight now matter how near or far from the end of the board they are. I just hold (or clamp) the baseplate down and trace the baseplate's holes onto the deck. I take an awl or a nail and spike the center of each circle before drilling.
Most trucks have been made so that the trucks are straight when the hole pattern is straight. I draw the centerline on the bottom out of habit because I didn't always have a drill press. I had a hand drill and if I drilled from the top at a slight angle, the hole pattern on the bottom would be off. I don't usually draw lines that are perpendiculr to the centerline, there's no need if you use the actual baseplate as a reference. When I'm putting a board together, the hanger is usually not attached to the baseplate but even if it were, it's not going to be of much help. Never eyeball anything. Measure twice, drill once!
|
|
|
|
|
Straight Trucks
|
|
On 3/23/2001 Sharkisland
wrote in from
(206.210.nnn.nnn)
I'm starting to feel stupid. I apologize for the ignorance, but i just can't get comfortable with this concept.
I understand what you and Hebn were telling me, and I think you both have a similar approach, but I am having a little trouble with it.
It sounds like the hole pattern itself is actually square or perpendicular to the hanger (axle), but the base plate is not. I can understand the base plate and holes not both being square to the axle because you can see that the holes are not equal distances from the edges of the base plate. I guess I just figured that the base plate would have been perpendicular to the hanger because they are both pieces of hardware and pivot relative to eachother. It just seems like if you line up the hole pattern to be square to the board centerline, the axle would have to be out of line becuase of the hole placement in the base plate.
I know you guys have this all worked out, but I am afraid to drill anymore holes in my deck.
I guess I am just trying to get clarification that it is the hole pattern and not the base plate itself that is meant to be square with the centerline of the board.
Sorry I have to keep asking this question. I guess once you stumble across your first successful truck mounting, you feel a little better.
Thanks again!!!
|
|
|
|
|
Mock Concave
|
|
On 3/23/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, You may remember that I've been using the "ramps" without bending any wood. It leaves me with a nice beefy rail and flat underside that I can route a handle into. DT and others are also using an "angle-flat-angle" approach but they are molding theirs. Those sheets are "off the shelf items" and nice for buttboards, wooden luges and speedboards. You can "stack" the sheets and make strong "dropped" decks or luges that can actally be bolted together when used with a stringer/spline. I think the grain on the outside runs the other way and every ply's direction is alternated.
|
|
|
|
|
Getting trucks straight
|
|
On 3/23/2001
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Here is a picture of handy ruler that is easy to make and use for truck alignment. It's 35" long, 1 5/8" wide, and has small holes down the centerline every 2 1/2". The ends have a v-notch along the centerline, and there are tiny notches on the sides exactly 2 1/2" from each end. I lay the ruler down along the centerline of the deck using the v-nothces and/or the holes in the ruler. I then draw a new line on each side of the ruler in the area where I want the trucks to go. Now I can either use the notched sides and corners of the ruler for my mounting holes, or I can put the truck's baseplate on the two new lines and pencil in the hole pattern. I punch holes in the "crosshairs" to help align the drill bit and carefully drill the holes. Most all trucks have a pretty true 2 /12" x 1 5/8" old school hole pattern but beware, Randal's newer Downhill baseplates are off by about 1/16" or so. Once I have a perfect template made for a deck that is designed for a specific truck, I don't have to worry about it's alignment. Without the ruler, I just would draw two lines exactly 13/16" from each side of the deck's ceneterline so they are straight and 1 5/8" apart from one another. Then put the baseplate in position making sure that the parallel lines are all perfectly centered within the baseplate's holes and pencil in the hole pattern. It get's trickier for dropthrough's because on one hand, you don't want to cut slots in your deck any larger than you have to, but if the slots don't allow a little movement in the baseplate, it can twist the baseplate off of center. The are several other good methods, but using the ends of the baseplates is not one of them.
|
|
|
|
|
