Jason Mitchell, Seismic Nationals 2007, Hybrid Slalom.  Photo by Greg Fadell Northern California Downhill Skateboarding Association
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Long Distance Skateboard Pumping LDP

 
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Long Distance Pumping (LDP) (1492 Posts)
Topic Info
Optimal Pump setup
On 8/8/2007 Mr. X wrote in from United States  (64.81.nnn.nnn)

You are correct Mr. Peters sir. RT-S rear and RT-X front. A type-o on me. I appreciate the comments. I'm using a Z-flex board with almost no flex. I purchased the softest available bushings for the Trackers. (RT-X and RT-S) I too like the more stable setup but I think the only way I'm going to know for sure is to buy another board and learn for myself.

I'm thinking about a couple of Revenge trucks on a mini cruzer deck. Small and tight turns. Not good for hills but I live in Illinois anyway. Not a hill in site. I'll post my results if anybody is interested.

Mr. X

 
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pump board setup
On 8/8/2007 peters wrote in from United States  (64.236.nnn.nnn)

i think you meant rts rear and rtx front, right? because reversed would be the same...

i've always preferred a stable rts in the back and a looser rtx in the front, for an efficient pump setup. a few people like a "surfy" pumper, with the reverse: a more stable front and looser back truck. it's not as common, but still one way to surf your pump.

a basic note on stiffer or looser trucks depends on the deck. if you're working with a fairly flexy, springy deck, then you can afford both trucks to be a little more snug, balancing out the snap of each pump between the trucks and deck. on the other hand if your deck is stiff and unforgiving, then the bushings in the trucks will be providing most of the rebound, so there needs to be more give / looser truck as a result.

 
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Best setup for a pump board.
On 8/8/2007 Mr. X wrote in from United States  (69.222.nnn.nnn)

Let me ask please... I've recently built a board with Tracker RT-X in the Front and Tracker RT-X in the rear. I can pump the thing pretty good but it seems that I can build better speed when the board is reversed. Can anybody tell me from experience if 2 stiffer or 2 turnier trucks would work better? (ie: 2 RT-S's or 2 RT-X's). I'll build another board if my current setup is lacking optimal hardware. Thanks.

Mr. X

 
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X-Trux
On 7/1/2007 Adam wrote in from United States  (198.144.nnn.nnn)

From the webmaster..

To those who signed up to be X-Trux test riders, I'm sad to report that the South African company that was developing them seems to have flaked on us. Their last contact with me was Sept 12, 2006 when they were reportedly making final changes to truck's design. Sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused.

 
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Center set wheels
On 6/16/2007 Rick S wrote in from United States  (66.32.nnn.nnn)

Thanks PSR! I've read some good things about the 78a GOS and 80a/77m Hawgs, and I expect that the 78a GOS would be faster than the softer 75a that I've tried. I'm not racing on these wheels, but since I'm pumping on the flats, I'm providing all of the power, and I'd like wheels that keep the speed as much as possible. I should also point out that the 76mm FlyWheels I was referring to in my previous post were the first generation amber wheels which have a core which is about 50mm, 5mm larger that the current version, and that may account for the ride quality.

What I'm hoping is that one of these center set wheels might provide similar performance to the Gumballs or Speed Vents, with the aded plus of being easy to rotate to balance the wear.

 
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Center-set wheels
On 6/14/2007 PSR wrote in from United States  (75.69.nnn.nnn)

Two advantages I think of right off the bat are; Less wheel interference when having to foot-push, as the wheel lip is 'tucked in' closer to the deck; And, you can even out the wear by reversing the wheels, which will give the wheels longer life, and keep the rolling resistance down (coned wheels grip a bit better, but are slower, and can track oddly on straights).

A down-side might be needing a bit more wheel-to-deck clearance to prevent wheel-rub in deep turns (depends on whether your truck's hangers are nearly as wide as the deck), but otherwise, I don't see any drawbacks.

The Big Zig should be pretty close to what you're looking for, although I think the softest out (now) is 80A? Flywheels (and other large cored wheels) do seem to ride harsher, even with softer compounds.

SpeedVents (not centerset,but bigger core) don't seem to ride harsh, though. Could be the 'bounce' in the urethane, might be the core? The old 'Super Paw' was pretty smooth also, with a big 'bling' factor with the machined Aluminum core. Bummer Power Paw went out of business.

 
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Center set wheels
On 6/14/2007 Rick S wrote in from United States  (66.32.nnn.nnn)

Has anyone had good results running center set wheels for LDP? I really like the option of reversing the wheels to balance the wear. I've been running 83mm FlyWheels for years, but have avoided the 76mm due to the harsh ride of the big hub. In general, I prefer the 75-77mm wheel size, but all of my favorite wheels in that range are offset. I have tried the Sector 9 GOS and Bomb Hills, both in 75a, but found them noticeably slower than the FlyWheels, Gumballs and SpeedVents. I haven't tried the S9 wheels in 78a, or the Hawgs, but I’d like to get some feedback before any more experimentation. Any comments, pro or con, would be appreciated.

 
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Randal set-up
On 5/29/2007 PSR wrote in from United States  (75.69.nnn.nnn)

So, Nicky, did the birthday present work out?

 
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Randals set-up
On 5/27/2007 Pre-School Rider wrote in from United States  (75.69.nnn.nnn)

Nicky, Randals are different than many 'normal' trucks. Look at the PIVOTS, not the Kingpins! Put the Pivots towards the board's ends, and Randals will then turn just fine. Oh,with the risers, If they're wedged, put the thin ends towards the tip/tail for Better Turning; For Speed, put the thin ends facing towards the board's tip or nose (this may raise the tail a bit); DO NOT put the wedged risers on with the thin end towards the Tail, it'll steer like a forklift. If you've got further questions, I check in here every 12-14 hrs. or so.

 
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Assembly
On 5/27/2007 Nicky wrote in from United States  (71.116.nnn.nnn)

Hey...bought a longboard with randal trucks and wedge risers for my husband and am trying to assembly it for his birthday. I put it together but the board goes in the opposite direction. What an I doing wrong? The trucks are on with the kingpins facing eachother and the risers only go on one way..... I am lost. HELP!

 
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the wave / x board / ess board
On 4/27/2007 hc wrote in from United States  (71.139.nnn.nnn)

I am surprised seeing this board at costco, sport authority, big 5
never thought it would sell well...
guess i am wrong..

someone told me the inventor is korean and homeless before hitting big with this invention.

"Well, the X-Board guys took their board to the annual INPEX convention on May 12 - 15. INPEX is America’s largest invention trade show, and the X-Board came out with three gold medals - in the Sports area, Recreation area and Toys & Games area. The X-Board also took the 2004 Grand Prix prize, and won Best Invention for the Americas in 2004!!"

http://www.streetsurfing.com/

 
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spawn of pumgo
On 4/24/2007 peters wrote in from United States  (64.236.nnn.nnn)

since this place seems to have taken a recent sharp psychotic turn toward the deviant side of mass-marketed skate sludge, I present you a recent evil finding:

make it stop...

http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/gadgets/booster-blades-honorable-suicide-254319.php

 
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before pumgo
On 4/9/2007 hc wrote in from United States  (168.149.nnn.nnn)

http://www.streetsurfer.com/

(powerboard)

 
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pumpin or pimpin?
On 3/30/2007 PSR wrote in from United States  (75.69.nnn.nnn)

I saw this thing when it came out, and LAUGHED, for quite awhile, too. ;-D
Ilove the 'see-saw motion claim; Ever endo hangin' ten?, yeah, that'll Work...
Even their claim of being the first 'push-free' skateboard is IMHO, bogus. My first 'push-free' deck was a fiberglass Hobie, equipped with Speed Springs and Pacers. That thing (and this was '75) would literally climb hills just gyrating, and IF that failed, just Tic-Tac (or Moonwalk if you're able). Granted, my Bahne from two years previous was maybe the better board, but it came with Bahne trucks and Road-Rider #2's; not so fast, though agile enuff.
So, Pumping a board for motion, using surf-type turning motions, has been around since, well, before I was born, before Vietnam was a war-zone. Some folk just gotta use Hype. I'm with CY on this; I'll stick with a good ol' Skateboard...

 
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Adam's http://www.pumgo.com/
On 3/30/2007 Chris Yandall wrote in from United States  (70.167.nnn.nnn)

wow. more funky crap ! looks like a scream for a few minutes... i'll stick to a conventional skateboard.. thanks!

cYa

 
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pumping foot
On 3/30/2007 Chris Yandall wrote in from United States  (70.167.nnn.nnn)

On 3/21/2007 Nick wrote in from United States (128.82.xxx.xxx) Help me out, I just recently got a new Krown longboard and for no reason that I can think of my pumping foot is killing me. I've skated before and this has never happened to me. Whats wrong? any doctors in the house?

no doctor here but you mention "pumping foot". I pump with both feet so i'm not sure what you are talking about. www.pumpyourdeck.com .. is that the pumping you are talking about? if you have one pumping foot, perhaps you aint pumpin right ...

cYa



 
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OUCH!
On 3/21/2007 Nick wrote in from United States  (128.82.nnn.nnn)

Help me out, I just recently got a new Krown longboard and for no reason that I can think of my pumping foot is killing me. I've skated before and this has never happened to me. Whats wrong? any doctors in the house?

 
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Footstops
On 3/21/2007 Juan M wrote in from Venezuela  (200.35.nnn.nnn)

Hello PSR could be possible to post a pic of your footstop.
Thanks

 
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Footstops
On 3/16/2007 PSR wrote in from United States  (75.69.nnn.nnn)

Cam, you'd want to use the left bolt holes; The L. rear would put you slightly behind the truck's axle; The L. front would put your foot right over the axle (and in slalom, often just a tad Too Far forward), but your smallest toe will 'lead' the axle. Best bet, really, is not to use the truck holes, but instead use a 5mm or 6mm T-nut, covered by a thin foam (or Dooks) riser (with a cutout for the T-nut), and bolt the block on to that. This lets you put that block exactly where it feels best(usually somewhere between the front/rear bolts of the front truck), plus it won't tweak any mounting hardware.

A good way to figure out your best foot placement would be to use sticky-back Surfboard foam bits on top of the griptape. Don't trust them to stay put very long, but that'll at least let you kinda figure where that toe-block is most effective and comfortable.

 
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footstops
On 3/16/2007 Adam wrote in from United States  (208.64.nnn.nnn)

I used old truck bushings (two stacked) and found the front-most left bolt hole to be idea for my foot size/placement.

 
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footstops
On 3/16/2007 cam wrote in from Australia  (220.233.nnn.nnn)

hey if im regular footed, what bolt hole should i put my footstop through

 
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pumping setup
On 3/13/2007 Daniel M. wrote in from United States  (66.210.nnn.nnn)

heres my pumping setup, what do you think?

sector 9 trilam, carver C7 front, standard carver back, 1/2 inch risers, 70 mm 75a nineballs

 
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Bennett/Tracker height
On 3/12/2007 PSR wrote in from United States  (208.5.nnn.nnn)

Chrys, expect around 3/16" more height from the Bennett, if you're running flat, no wedges. If you de-wedge the rear Tracker (more stability) , it'll actually sit a little lower that you'd expect for the 'nominal' height of the wedge riser. You'll probably have a slight nose-up attitude with the board if using similar sized blocks/wedges front+rear. This actually isn't a bad thing if you Skog on trails that have uphill sections, as you get better push-off leverage with a taller nose.

Best thing here is to play the 'shim + wedge game', go get some Dooks or similar thin risers, and a Khiro Rail Wedge Kit (which has a whole slew of riser height/angles in it), and some extra Long screws from the hardware store. Warning; Tinkering with the wedge and height combos may take a few trys to get things settled in where it all works out, so be patient. It's worth the hassle. Having a board set-up just right makes for big grins afterward!

 
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Bennetts 'n' Roe LDP
On 3/11/2007 Chrys wrote in from United States  (72.183.nnn.nnn)

PSR-thanks for your input.
To keep it easy I bought that Tracker RTS 129mm to go behind the Bennett 5.0 front. That way I can keep running four Gumballs on that deck. No back wheels sticking out too far and 2mm width difference I won't even notice. I think the Tracker will be a better back for the Roe LDP deck than a matching Bennett. Those Bennetts are so turny. It would need more work to make a suitable back than the Tracker,I think. Is the height of the Tracker and the Bennett close?

 
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Cruiser truck/wheel widths
On 3/11/2007 PSR wrote in from United States  (75.69.nnn.nnn)

Chrys, if you run a center-set bearing wheel (Manx,Grippin,Zig-Zag) at the rear, and Flashbacks/Avalons up front, the widths would just about match up. For Skogging, cruising, or just fast pumping, you don't want the wheels sticking out too far (can catch on the shoes when kick-pushing hard), but you'll want Some extra Width, just for stability. Besides, you're not trying to cut it close to a cone in pumping turns, so have some wheel poking out isn't going to be a real big issue...

The Gulls should be a nice rear with the Bennetts, and might not even need any de-wedging. However, pay attention to the bushing selection, and perhaps change the pivot cushion to a Hard Khiro or Hard Tracker to give it a smooth light turn-in. The soft pivots kinda gum up, and create a good deal of turn-in resistance, and will make a truck feel 'dead'.
The rear truck that would match up really well (same wheels on all 4 corners) with the Bennett front would be a Tracker Dart/RTS 129mm. The Gullwing is pretty close in overall feel, just wider and lower, so it should be fine.

 
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